mattsh

Looks very good.

Dude, you just make some freakin' nice holsters.

Very nice, I might have to make one for my dad's Ruger

Can't really add anything that hasn't already been said, but that is beautiful work.

Fredo - glad that you were able to produce your holster (even without the gun, if I read that right) it looks pretty good for your first one. I would agree that the belt loop needs to be a little wider. The design and function look really good. I must ask though, how did you do the molding if you dont have the gun?

As usual very good work.

Rayban - I will add to Lobo's post. There is actually a safety device on this particular holster, it's just not in place for sake of the picture. There is a strap that snaps from the backside to the front side, hence the snap below the trigger guard. This strap passes over the top of the hammer thereby preventing the user from unintentionally cocking the hammer and accidentally discharging the firearm. See other posts by Lobo about this Threepersons design and you will see what I am talking about. To respond to Mr Lobo's post he is most certainly right, some things are inherently unsafe, but mostly it comes down to the user and them being smart and not doing something stupid and using something for what it was not intended for. Hope this helps answer your questions. I assume by the LEO (?) in your post that you are curious what it stands for. It means Law Enforcement Officer.

I agree with Josh, for guns with no dummy available it may be very cost effective. I am sure some people say the same thing about us hobbyists that build our own holsters and sheaths, considering time, tools and materials "Why don't ya just buy one?". Sometimes its more than the end goal, its the process of getting there that is more enjoyable. Can't wait to hear about the results.

Can you say holy cow? Wow! that is one sweet knife and those sheaths are pretty awesome too. I really really really like the tiger striped one that is cool effect. Great Job!

WOW! those are some major sweet lookin grips. Kudos to your son-in-law.

Suuuuuuuwwwweeeeettt looking sheath! Very well done.

To each his own. As Dwight said, the highly regarded master craftsman Lou Alessi, shared with me that he did the dye right after the pieces were cut then he did the edges then.... He and I had a discussion about this because at the time I was just getting started in leatherwork and making holsters. I was having a problem with any of the "boned" parts of the holster not taking the dye very well. He asked me the process I was using and I told him my process (at the time I was doing the molding, boning and stitching first and dye last). Lou then said that I should try doing the dye before the molding and boning as these processes compress the fibers of the leather and can make it so that those parts of the leather become more resistant to taking the dye as evenly as the rest of the leather. I have been doing it that way ever since. As the others have said, to each his own and whatever works for them, works for them. Experiment and enjoy.

Sorry..can't help ya with this one. I have never used the pull-the-dot snaps. Hopefully someone here will chime in soon.

That is a very nice rig you have there. It has a very elegant look to it. Good job!

Inspired by Mr Lobo and all of his posts about the Threepersons holster, I have made one for my daughters 6" Smith 19.

pretty cool. that is some neat carving.

My machine was stitching just fine. For some reason today my needle bent, so I replaced it and made sure that the clearance between the hook and the needle was correct and I made sure that the needle depth was in tolerance (as in the distance between the hook point and the eye of the needle was correct). Now for some reason the thread balls up on the left side of the needle and sometimes skips a stich (i.e. not grabbing the bobin thread). Another peculiarity is that the top thread does not seem to be laying correctly on the top of the leather. Its almost like the thread is unraveling ? I could really use some help here. Like I mentioned I have checked the clearance on the hook and needle and made sure that the needle depth is in tolerance. Thanks,

Cool design. I like it.

Welcome to the forum, from Missouri (central U.S.)! Awesome work. I love the edge stitching on the hatchet very cool. I really like the knife sheath and that knife, wow what a handle. Can you tell us more about the knife? And in that basket, what the heck is that brass shell? It's huge! Would love to hear what that is. Overall, very nice work and again, welcome to the forum.

Wow! That's a piece of beauty. Love the shark skin. Where did you get it?

sweet lookin rig

Nooj That's really good for your first holster. And the color....it actually is kind of appealing/artistic....there is another member on here that does a rough finish on purpose that looks very similar to what you have done, if I recall correctly his name is Noah. Again, its for IWB so who's gonna see it anyway? A couple points on the holster design have already been pointed out: stitching closer to the trigger guard; and allow more room at the grip/trigger guard junction so you can get a full grip on your pistol. When it comes time to draw a full grip is going to be very vital and every tenth of a second counts, so if you have to adjust your grip as you draw your weapon it can be valuable wasted time. Just food for thought and something to consider on your next holster design. Kudos to you on your first holster. Hopefully you've caught the bug.

Just finished this one today. The pistol is a FNH FN-45. My first leftie. The trim is elephant. Sorry about the fuzzy left side. The camera is getting older and its focus is a little out of whack on left.

Lobo - the calf lining you mentioned is upholstery leather for car interior. I guess I made the assumption that all upholstery leather is chrome tanned, is that not the case ? By the way... that is one flat gorgeous holster. I think you have inspired me to make one for my 6" Smith 19. Just beautiful.awesome job. thanks for sharing the pics.