Tugadude

I would consider avoiding fabric altogether and try using Tyvek material. This is the material you find used for tear-resistant envelopes. It is a spunbonded polyolefin material which is going to outlast any fabric I can think of. It doesn't fray nor does it stretch. And although I haven't used it in this exact application, I have no doubt it will adhere to leather as well or better than any other material. Sourcing it may be the only challenge as the sources I'm aware of are large rolls used for weatherproofing buildings. So perhaps you can find a distributor that sells largish envelopes and you can cut them up to create your loops.

As a fellow believer I couldn't have said it better. Thanks for joining in praying for these oppressed peoples.

I admire anyone who stretches out their skills and tries new things. It is a very satisfying thing. Good job and now when you create beautiful carvings you can feel even better about it.

Check out this video from Weaver. Looks to me like they recommend 1.0mm thread with the #17 needle. What I figured.

It is my understanding that John James needles are sometimes packaged differently, whether it is because of the country they are sold in or what, I'm not sure. Best bet is to contact your supplier. If you go to the link you can see how the listed needles compare size-wise. When it comes to saddle stitching you don't want too large of needle because they can get hung up and require pliers to pull them through. Once I figured out what's what I haven't had to do that gain. I remember one member stating that they have to do it with each and every stitch. If that's the case, something's wrong.

Not a stupid question, but that's a pretty big needle. What are you stitching? I'd say the thread would need to be a minimum of 1.0mm and it could go much higher. 1.42mm is the listed diameter of the needle from the John James website. https://www.jjneedles.com/images/downloads/JJ-Needles-Types-and-Sizes-Guide.pdf

I know that we have folks here from Ukraine who have participated in the forum. Just wanted to say my prayers are with you at this time. You're a world away from me but you're in my heart. I pray for your safety and for peace. Although at this time it appears peace is a long way off. Stay strong! Ray

Here's the issue I have with responses like this. You are being intentionally dismissive of those who disagree with you. You say you've given chisels a chance, but that's all you say. You don't explain which irons, which configuration and how long you tried to master using them. I say master because there is a learning curve to anything. Maybe you had substandard chisels and didn't get good results. Not a good test. Regarding leatherworking in general, isn't it a good thing that the medium is growing again? Or seems to be? Maybe some of the serious ones will eventually come around to wanting to learn to stitch with an awl. Automatic transmissions on cars make driving easy for most. And real car nerds prefer manual transmissions. I say let everyone drive what they prefer. So long as you arrive alive, who cares. And nobody asks either. Anyone who tries a good set of stitching irons and gives them a chance will see some benefit. Maybe not enough to change their ways, but they will understand the appeal. I've never dismissed awls, as I said, I use one at times and they are extremely helpful. So why the animosity towards stitching irons or chisels? How about just letting it go? I so wish some that use them regularly would add to this discussion. There is some incredible work being turned out by those who use them. Photos of their work appears here regularly. Maybe they avoid these discussions? As I said, this discussion really has become silly. Examples as to why chisels don't make sense have been made that are either totally incorrect or weighted so far as to make them laughable. Would I ever try to punch through two layers of 6 oz. leather with a chisel? Not likely. Does that mean they have no value? Not hardly. And on it goes.

Some people really struggle with getting an angle to their stitching on both sides and so they do punch the backside separately. Some find it helps. And yes, some go to the extent of using inverse irons. By the way, even the "European" pricking irons are available in the portmanteau style.

Chuck, what you describe doesn't happen, at least not in my experience. I never, ever have to go back and enlarge holes even if the project sits overnight. Ever. If you have had that problem, perhaps the chisel isn't big enough for the thread in the first place?

This has become a silly discussion. Everything has its place. I do use an awl sometimes but mostly stitching chisels. I have several sets to achieve various SPI. Chisels have taken the market by storm and there are literally dozens of brands/types. Nigel Armitage used to be 100% traditional pricking iron and awl but not any longer. I’m a hobbyist and nobody needs to take my word for it. But there are many pros that use the chisels to help make a living. I never punch both sides of the leather, it is quite unnecessary. It may help to attain a better slant on the back, but there are other ways.

Whatever works for you is right for you. Doesn't matter what anyone else thinks. I pride myself on getting a good slant and it is obvious you've got it figured out. So keep on keeping on!

Functional is good! Don't worry, it gets better! Make sure you are drawing a straight line to punch along. Yours look pretty decent until it gets to the turn and then it is too close to the edge. On trick that some do is to allow just a bit of extra leather at the edge and then cut it back after the stitching is complete. I don't bother with it now, but when I first started I wish I'd have known about it. And always use the 2-prong tool around the corner. When saddle stitching you want the needle to do the exact same thing every time. That's how you get consistency. Nigel Armitage's videos on youtube are great in my opinion. He gives a lot of pointers that he's learned over time. Keep up the good work!

I have a set of those same stitching irons and they are fine for bigger work. I'd use smaller on wallets and small items. But on a holster or a bag, perfect.

Not dumb at all. It is easy for miscommunication to cloud the distinction and that's why I suggested the following "sticky" subject. Regarding Tandy, those chisels are measured differently than most. The one you mention as being 3mm, #88045 would be very appropriate for sewing two pieces of 6 oz. leather with 1.0 Ritza 25 thread.

You might email Bruce Johnson. He's a tool expert. https://brucejohnsonleather.com/

Chisels are not a waste of time, nor are they perfect. They have allowed aspiring leatherworkers to achieve a level of quality that they would not be able to had they only used an awl and traditional stitch spacing methods such as stitch wheel and/or pricking iron. People who haven't tried something probably shouldn't be pronouncing judgment. For example, I don't own a sewing machine and so I don't comment on them. I do, however, notice that there seem to be a ton of people experiencing problems with them, hence the number of threads asking for help. I could easily assume that sewing leather by machine is a huge waste of time, but I know that isn't the case. Nothing is perfect, not awls, not machines and not chisels. And there is a learning curve to all of them. There is some extremely fine work displayed on this forum by people who use chisels regularly. Maybe they will chime in and give their opinion on whether they find it a waste of time or not.

You're going to want a hammer with a polished face and one that is slightly domed so that the edges of the hammer face don't leave marks. I haven't tried, but I'd think a ball peen hammer would be prone to leaving dents, so probably not good for tapping down stitches. I'm sure many here use other things to tap their stitching down. Maybe they'll chime in with suggestions. Some of the appropriate hammers are really spendy but some can be had for a reasonable price.

If you haven't yet, make sure to tap those stitches down with a smooth-faced hammer. That will help close up the holes a bit and flatten the thread. I think it will make them look a little better.

Sure it is applicable. What I pointed out is the the OP may not be satisfied even if they use the irons they have with proper technique. I'm sure someone out there like the look of those long stitches, but they leave me totally cold. If this is a beginner, as stated, then they really are going to want something closer to 3.0mm as it will have more application to the sorts of things beginners tend to make, key fobs, wallets, etc. And yes, after gaining some experience, there are all sorts of options to consider. Hopefully the folks at your local store know how to properly saddle stitch. If they do, then that's a great idea. While you are there ask to see other iron options and have them discuss the features and benefits with you. Perhaps they'll let you try some of the other options?

My business is extremely impacted by chemical prices. I suspect that the price and availability of the chemicals used in the tanning and finishing process will eventually impact retail prices if it hasn't already. For reference, one of my main suppliers adds a surcharge currently and they have just announced they are going up to 40% surcharge on some items. It is getting (has gotten!) ridiculous. Glad you shared your experience. Unfortunately, fear of stuff running out oftentimes causes people to buy ahead, adding further pressure to the market, ensuring additional problems down the line. You can't win sometimes.

Here's a thread I started about the irons I mentioned. Someone shows a 4.0mm diamond chisel stitch in the thread. It is an example of what I'm talking about. They achieved a nice slant to the stitches but in my opinion they are simply too long.

The spacing on the irons the OP bought is too wide for many leather items in my opinion. I bought the same irons shortly after I began leatherworking and I didn't like the result. I don't really use them at all anymore but I might consider using them on the inside of a turned bag or something, but not on anything where the stitching is going to be visible. Even when you do achieve a slant the stitches aren't attractive (to me!). Others might not feel the same. Tandy sells several different irons. I've gotten good results from their fine diamond pro chisels. They have a 2.5, which is good for watch straps and wallets and a 3.0 and 3.5 which I like for bags and briefcases.

Something tells me the OP is referring to this one. Can find them at several leather suppliers. I took this pic from Weaver's site.

Sorry to hear of your loss. I've been an animal lover my whole life, cats, dogs, fish, guinea pigs, lizards, turtles, you name it. They bring so much pleasure and seem to make each day a little better. When the time is right, go look for a rescue dog. Give it a good home, it will be a blessing to you both. Edit: I forgot to mention the cat in the bag which is my avatar. His name was Finley. He was a rescue and they swore he had been treated for feline leukemia, but sadly he contracted it. He will never be forgotten as he was one of the most loving animals I've ever been fortunate to care for. He climbed into that bag and posed for the perfect pic. Glad I had my phone handy to capture it.