Tugadude

Thanks Gulrock for keeping the discussion going rather than bowing out and creating your own topic. Please don't lecture me on what a scam is. I'm well aware of what constitutes a scam. If someone here puts foil in a wallet they are not perpetrating a scam. Period. I'm moving on now. Gulrock, if this is as big a passion for you as it seems to be, start a new topic.

Can I recommend a separate topic be made about the pros and cons of using RFID protection in wallets? This thread is about how to find RFID protection sheets. Whether it is a real threat or not, calling it a scam is not helpful. That implies you are taking advantage of people. No, you are just giving them something which may or may not be helpful. There is nothing nefarious about it. Sure, arguments, good ones, can be made as to whether they are necessary. But providing the protection isn't harmful in itself. If you think it doesn't work for its intended purpose, hey, it's still a wallet, right? And some will want RFID protection for peace of mind. Some baseball players wear special socks when they pitch. If it makes them feel better, what's the harm? Sometimes discussions can get divisive just based on the words we use. Calling RFID protection in wallets a scam is an example. It will immediately cause offense to those who believe in it. And that's not conducive to having a polite discussion. Just my $.02

Wow, what a great journal! I didn't know of it but I do now. Thanks for sharing that!

Journal covers are a great way to experiment. You can do them plain, stamped or carved, whatever floats your boat. It is also fun to work out ways to provide pen loops and pockets. And you can make them in all sorts of sizes from ones that'll fit in your pocket to larger ones that fit legal pads.

What a cool idea. Good on you!

I wouldn't expect to see many customers in the shop. Their business is online and robust. People gladly pay more for the brand, the story, the hat and the moustache. Is the valet tray worth $60.00? Are the leather coasters worth $95.00 for a set of 4? Not to me, but they have a market and they price according to what those folks are willing to pay. Hey, at least they aren't low-ballers like some.

Keep in mind they do offer a reasonable guarantee. More than many offer at least. Also, the pricing is due to the brand. Unless or until someone creates demand they are forced to price things according to time and materials mainly. Add the cachet of a name brand and suddenly you are able to charge much more. Sometimes unreasonably more. Try buying a Rolex at list price sometime. You're not going to get the popular ones for anything close to MSRP.

There are a number I found with a quick internet search. Don't have any personal experience, sorry, but these appear to do the job. https://www.vevor.com/marking-machine-c_10477/400w-electric-metal-marking-engraving-machine-200x150mm-50mm-s-nameplate-110v-us-p_010564478831?gclid=CjwKCAjwtIaVBhBkEiwAsr7-c74aiGHoXyTwl2AYoSXguiYTAg5iosbBjw9KAesNGwQEUQhgbGCRkRoCzCQQAvD_BwE https://www.cncest.com/products/electric-marking-machine-nameplate-metal-plate-marking-machine-industrial-printing-system-graphics-editor-graphics-converter-font-editor?variant=41543457112234&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAjwtIaVBhBkEiwAsr7-c-v11ly7iD2d-KtVj-F0ZJaM4aw0v5KUHmsp8ujkHFu3gdz8_A42ahoCIXsQAvD_BwE

I'm a little worried about the grommets and the effect they might have on the stock over time. I may be off base, but I can see a potential for discoloration of the stock and abrasion issues. That is, unless there is leather on the backside of the grommets which I cannot see.

And here's a great video of where Nigel demonstrates a French style iron, the Crimson Hides one. Lots to learn about thread sizing here as well.

I think it is great and no need to change anything but to me, being hard on yourself is not a bad thing. I am my own worst critic and I'm sure many here are. But when we are pleased you can be sure everyone else will be too. So don't ever accept mediocrity and keep setting the bar high. Oh, and I forgot to compliment you on the knife! I've seen your work in the past and it is always top shelf.

it is not taboo to use a pricking iron to create holes. At least not in thin leather. Pricking irons are traditionally used to mark holes, but they will penetrate thin leather, especially if they are sharp. There are those here who believe the only "right" way to make holes in leather is with an awl. I respect their choice, but that's what it is, a choice. And there are some projects where an awl is actually the easier way to go, as in very thick projects, so everyone should have one and be confident in using it. I use an awl, but I also use stitching chisels and they are my main "go to". Even Nigel Armitage, who has a successful youtube channel and subscription video tutorials has softened over the years and understood that stitching chisels have their place and for some projects are an excellent alternative. He provides stellar reviews of something like 20 plus chisels and pricking irons. Well worth watching before you invest. Some of the so-called French style irons have teeth that are very thin and not tapered very much. They can make a great stitching chisel. By the way, I asked that a thread be dedicated to discussions just like these. You might find it helpful. Nigel weighs in on the topic. And in the end, find what WORKS FOR YOU and ignore me and anyone else that tries to convince you that you are wrong. If you get the results, they speak for themselves.

Beautiful work. Never ceases to amaze me how not only can artists make a representation of a person's looks, but translate emotion as well. And this work does exactly that. Kudos!

Personally I love this solution. With skiving, the edges don't have to be thick at all. I would call it an elegant solution because it eliminates the need for any metal fasteners but maintains the strength you need.

Might not be an option for you but I'd imagine you could spray apply it with an airbrush. That should prevent streaks, but I'm sure there is a learning curve for spraying too. Spraying always sounds easy, but nothing is perfect.

Give your leather a suntan. Leaving vegetable-tanned leather in direct sunlight will darken it. The result varies depending I guess on what color it was to begin with, but I have gotten some very pleasing results just from this.

Here is a video which shows one way to "anchor" the end of the buck stitch. The technique begins a little after the 2:00 mark in the video. I'm not sure it is conducive to both ends, but what I'd do is use this anchor technique on the top of the sheath where there will be more stress and then on the bottom I would terminate the stitch between the two layers of leather and glue it in place. I think that would work OK in most instances where you have a straight stich.

Currently I don't have any dedicated area for my leatherwork. I do it wherever I can and I try to keep things tidy and clean up when I'm done. Looking forward to finally being an empty-nester and having room I can reserve for my hobbies.

This works according to what I’ve heard… https://www.amazon.com/Blocking-RF-Reduce-Protection-Conductive-Radiation/dp/B07N2YLK3J

Any relation to Phil and Tony? Tony was my favorite player back in the day. Loved watching him play.

Tools are in investment sure, but good tools don't cost money, they make you money. If your speed improves and your quality remains the same or gets better, they will quickly pay for themselves. That's assuming you get paid for your work. For many of us, we're in it for the fun and give most of our work away. For us, the investment may still be worth it in time saved and quality achieved.

Your stitching is looking very nice.

One thing to keep in mind is the idea behind the making of the holes. It is commonly misunderstood. The tines only need to be somewhat sharp at the tip. The sides don't need to be sharp, just smooth. The concept is that the iron pierces the leather and then opens up a hole, not cuts a hole. If the tine cuts the leather then you end up with a slit and that slit won't want to close up. What you really want is for the tool to pierce the leather, stretch it in order to make a hole and then after the thread goes into the hole it can close around it. This happens by itself, but can be helped along by tapping the stitch line with a smooth-faced hammer. I see projects all the time where the thread is on the small side and the holes are on the large side and they stick out like a sore thumb. That's not the look you want to achieve. The same applies to awls, they should be sharp at the tip but polished on the edges. if they are razor sharp all along the edge, you will be cutting a hole that same size. Not what you want in most cases.

Fun project. My daily carry is a Kershaw Dividend, assisted opening. Made in the good old U.S. of A. I own a couple of Bucks and they are also nice, but the Kershaw is my fave.

To each his/her own, but I prefer my awls on the short side personally. Two layers of 2mm won't require a very long awl. As far as the coins thing, if the U.K. is anything like the U.S., while many coins are merely plated copper there are still lots of older ones in circulation which are pure copper. Use those.