Tugadude

I found this video helpful. Also, there are the stropping "boards" from Wuta and others.

Sorry to hear about your woes, but stuff happens. I am in the construction industry and deal with deliveries all the time. Some days it seems to be my job to track shipments, something I really shouldn't have to do. And it is getting worse. Not only is service declining, but as you have discovered, instead of being understanding and apologetic, sometimes you get grief instead of empathy. The person you spoke with might have just hung up with someone who was angry and who knows, might have ripped him a new one, profanity included. It happens. Not making excuses for him, he shouldn't let that frustration was over you, but again, it happens. Glad to see you report the good experience with Tandy. I'm sure if the package is indeed lost they will replace it and deal with the carrier on their own. Good luck!

At the risk of offending Dan Post devotees, they sort of look like something a kid learns how to do in summer camp. Like a pot holder. Sorry, that's the first thing that came to mind when I saw them. Not for me. I did find an example on the Dan Post website: I bolded some verbiage to make sure it is clear what you are getting. About The Ned Leather Boot Sustainable. Unique. Lightweight. Eye-catching. All describe the Laredo Ned cowboy boot. The foot is made with vegetable tanned leather, no toxic chemicals were used in the tanning process. The basket weaver upper is made of Sustainable canvas. The insole is sourced of natural jute. The Orthotic insert is made of recycled foam and the outsole is natural rubber. stitched with natural cotton thread. The Laredo Ned Sustainable boot is part of our Eco-friendly series.

Curious as to what specific brand of boots the OP is talking about. I went to French's website and looked around, didn't find any "sustainable" products at all. I even did a quick search on the site for the term "sustainable" and "sustainability" and got zero results. I sincerely would like to view the product myself and learn more about it. Not that I'm interested in purchasing, just for basic knowledge. When broaching a topic like this I find it helpful to have more facts, ones that we all can look up and help decide for ourselves.

Do you have clips on them? There are some clips I've seen for sale that allow for really deep carry, the sheath ends up in the pocket, not sticking out at all. Of course the knife itself probably would.

Beautiful and inspiring. And leaves you won't have to rake!

To be honest, I'm not surprised by any bad behavior I hear of anymore. Kindness, sincerity and honesty are in seemingly in short supply. Danne has always been very generous here in showing excellent work and details on what it takes to produce it. Can't ask for much more than that. Much of the internet irks me these days. There is one site I asked to be removed from because of the unkind people and trolls who delighted in being negative whether they actually felt that way or not. There is something to say about being a provocateur and something else when you are intending to cause someone anger and frustration. How sad those people must be. I've pulled back from several of the sites I frequent. Getting off of the computer is actually healthier as it turns out! Mentally and physically too.

This. The rust I see we sometimes call "flash rust" in the construction industry. This sort of rust can literally happen within minutes in the right conditions. It is easily removed and once it is, you won't be able to tell anything had been there. From there onward, keep them oiled to prevent excessive corrosion. Should it have happened in the first place? Probably not if the manufacturer would have applied an oil or other corrosion-inhibiting treatment to the surface. But then, when that is removed it is on the buyer to protect it.

In lieu of any other qualifiers, Springfield Leather Co. is one of my go-to sources. They have both an online catalog and a printed one should that appeal to you. It generally has some helpful info in it in addition to the products.

Given the fact the stitching sort of blends in with the color, I think you'd be OK with only one row of stitching on the fold-over side. If it were a contrasting color thread, maybe it would be best to do two rows.

I took the liberty of adding a print screen to this topic. Reason being, it is possible and highly likely that the link in the original post may someday be inactive. So for posterity, here's what you find at the link. It seems to be a helpful guide. Needle and Thread Chart For Sewing Machines The following chart compares various bonded nylon or polyester sewing thread specifications and the minimum needle sizes required The V size is the common US measurement for twisted, multi-ply bonded nylon or polyester threads. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads. The T sizes represent the "Tex" measurement system, where the number equals the weight in grams of 1000 meters of thread. If 1,000 meters weighs 70 grams, it is a Tex 70 thread. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads. Please note that the "Tkt" (Ticket) sizes are equivalent to Metric "M" thread sizes used in some countries. Smaller numbers indicate heavier threads. Minimum Needle US/Metric Thread Size: V (T) [Ticket] Government Size Yds/Pound Break Strength Diameter 12/80 33 (T30) [Tkt 80] AA 13,800 1.8 lbs .0050" (.127mm) 14/90 46 (T45) [Tkt 60] B 9,600 7.5 lbs .0094" (.238mm) 16/100 or 18/110 69 (T70) [Tkt 40] E 6,000 11 lbs .0115" (.292mm) 19/120 92 (T90) [Tkt 30] F 4,200 14.5 lbs .0133" (.337mm) 22/140 or 23/160 138 (T135) [Tkt 20] FF 3,000 22 lbs .0163" (.414mm) 24/180 207 (T210) [Tkt 15] 3 Cord 2,000 32 lbs .0200" (.508mm) 25/200 277 (T270) [Tkt 10] 4 Cord 1,500 45 lbs .0231" (.586mm) 26/220 346 (T350) [Tkt 8] 5 Cord 1,200 53 lbs .0258" (.655mm) 27/250 415 (T400) [Tkt 7] 6 Cord 1,050 72 lbs .0283" (.718mm) 30/330 554 (T600) [Tkt 5] 8 Cord 655 83 lbs .0326" (.828mm) Be aware that in the future that link may be a dead end. There's a lot of information there, so it might not be easy to list here, but if there is one page which is helpful for the specific question you might want to provide it here so that it doesn't disappear in time. This might help people searching for helpful information in the future.

I knew that if anyone around here could pull off a boot, it would be you! I considered you a shoe-in for the task. Keep telling puns like that and you all will give ME the boot... I'll tread lightly in the future so as to not be considered a heel. I really do have some soul.

You make some very good points. A lot of projects I do I just need the glue to hold long enough until I finish stitching. In fact, for that reason I like to use double-sided tape in many instances. The only limiting factor is the issue of the very edge of the leather. If you run the tape all the way to the edge it can sometimes create issues, issues that the glue doesn't seem to. And if you hold it back too far from the edge, then there can be separation between the two layers which isn't helpful. For that reason I pick my spots on where I use tape versus glue.

True!

I suggest we all take a deep breath and ratchet the heat down a bit. After all, we're talking about adhesive here, don't let it tear us apart! See, a little humor goes a long way. The OPs response to Samalan was unwaranted. Take advice or don't. Take feedback or don't. No need to make it personal. Kindness goes a long way. When someone gives an honest answer, even if it is off-topic or "wrong" in your opinion, take it for what it is and move on. Makes things a lot simpler and more fun.

Stronger than what? The Weldwood you mentioned or Barge? I went to DAP's website to look at their various contact adhesives and from what little they publish in their technical data sheets, the biggest difference I could ascertain was that the landau adhesive has a much longer open time, 2 hours compared to 20 minutes for the original formula. The main answer to the OPs question is answered by their own statements made about working in the automotive industry. I'm sure this adhesive is common to anyone in that industry. I'm not in that industry and despite the fact I have had a lot of experience with various adhesives, including working for manufacturers of same, I'd never run across it. Doesn't mean it isn't the bee's knees.

Stronger than what? The Weldwood you mentioned or Barge?

Did you make a sporran bag?

Can't speak for the landau top issue, but Weldwood Cement is talked about very frequently here. Personally I use the red cans and I know several others have posted that they use the same. It is more than good enough for what I use it for. I've also used Barge Cement in the tubes and didn't find it to be anything special, and Weldwood tends to be cheaper where I buy.

I tend to agree with this sentiment. The same holds true for character marks in leather. I don't consider them flaws, just part of the deal. But I also respect the decision to avoid them. Different strokes for different folks. On a related note, I am a wrist watch fan and you wouldn't believe the number of companies that are selling watches made to look worn. They are literally subjecting them to abuse prior to selling them, accelerating the patina so to speak. Amazing, but there you are. Edit: P.S. Next thing you know they'll be selling blue jeans with holes in them.

I love that color interior on the green wallet. Reminds me of Cognac. And the fabric is a nice touch. I have used denim fabric on a few wallets, just experimenting and I think fabric makes for a nice contrast.

I'd strike a happy medium. No need to dye the whole thing or dye pocket pieces individually. I'd do smaller, workable sections from which you will cut your pieces. I like to keep it to perhaps 18" square when possible. Application can range from daubers to dip dyeing to air brush. I've seen some really nice results from air brushing but haven't done it myself. I use a dauber usually and I apply the dye in circular motions, and try to keep it as uniform as possible. I don't mind minor variations and think they often add to the look.

I love messing around with different styles of wallet. Mostly my efforts have been towards minimalism and tying to create a design that is practical enough while remaining slim. Your travel wallet is nice and would surely get the job done. I screwed up when I got my license renewed. In Missouri you can either get a drivers license which also serves as official ID, or not. I didn't realize that at the time. And so, when I fly, I have to use my passport, even on domestic flights. What a pain! Live and learn. I hated having to carry a large wallet, but it did house the passport and boarding passes, etc.

Thanks for that positive post. I've visited Tandy Leather stores in Kansas City, MO, Wichita, KS, Omaha, NE and of course my hometown of St. Louis, MO. All were staffed with friendly, helpful staff.