Tugadude

Similar to mine although after a couple years of using it regularly I removed the bolt and wing nut and I simply use a plastic "C" clamp. Much quicker in my opinion and while I'm stitching I don't care how it looks. I got the idea from watching Ian Atkinson's videos on youtube. It is function over form, but I won't go back.

Don't discount the "easy way" and that is to just use a circular wooden bottom and then tack the leather to it. Not saying it is better, just easier. You can stain the wood to match and nobody will be the wiser. And it helps to keep the shape of the whole affair. Just a thought. Here's a variation, but just a basic handlebar bag. Then there's this style, which I'm not hugely fond of, but I guess it works...don't know about using it for a single water bottle either...it would work on the seat tube which is basically vertical.

Incredible work! I wish I could add more, but I'm sort of speechless at the moment.

Nice to see another bicycle person here. Do you have a particular style in mind? There are many ways to accomplish what you are trying to do, but it would help if you could share some more detailed expectations. Maybe you can find a picture of what you are hoping to replicate?

Kudos to you for making such a handy wallet for your sister-in-law. Small projects like that are great for learning and for practice. First, they don't take much leather and you can literally use up otherwise useless scraps. They don't even need to match. Why not make it "funky"? As far as the work itself, there is certainly room for improvement but I can say that about most anyone's work. Did you use chisels? DJole seems to think so. If you mark your lines properly and line up your chisel properly it should result in perfectly straight lines. My suggestion is to make more wallets, similar to that one and different and give them to friends and family as you progress. Pretty soon you will be surprising even yourself.

Well said!

You didn't specify size. Here in the U.S. there are craft stores that sell a variety of wooden boxes. Many tend to be of the smaller variety.

Thank you for your service in both the Marines and in law enforcement. And for the sacrifices you made, which apparently include physical ones. Enjoy your "hobby farm" and the closer proximity to your family. Virginia's loss is Oklahoma's gain!

Just search for "motorcycle chaps pattern" and you'll find a bunch of info on the web. I have no idea if the pattern is any good, but I found this for ten bucks: https://sewwithsarah.com/shop/custom-fit-leather-chaps-pattern/

The stitching on that notebook is everything I don't care for in machine stitching. Functional, yes. Attractive, to me a big no. But you asked about lining and I have to assume that cost is the main driving factor. I would say thickness on small items, but lining can be made so thin that if you really want to use it, thickness isn't prohibitive. Some of the mass-produced wallets I've seen used lining leather that was literally paper thin. I don't care for the "hairy" look and if it were me, I'd at least slick the exposed portions of the interior with TanKote or equivalent. Leaving it that way it looks unfinished to me.

Here's a website to follow up on. https://aaronmartin.com/list.php?catview=20&s= and... https://www.boothandco.com/item.php?prodID=54

Have you tried contacting him through Facebook Messenger? https://www.facebook.com/Bruce-Johnson-Leather-Tools-281712388344/ No idea if any of the companies in this thread are currently sources, but it is a start...

This is the style that I use. They can be sharpened very effectively. And it seems you've found several sources on how to do that. I followed the suggestions from Tandy and it is working for me.

This is an example of "western style" edgers. I've never used this style, perhaps others can compare/contrast the quality and usefulness of them versus the type I use, the round style. Jeremiah Watt makes a really nice one.

This is what a search turned up when I searched Osborne Concord beveler. This is referred to as an edger, and was actually made by C.S. Osborne's brother, H.F. Osborne. I got the info from Bruce Johnson's website: "HF Osborne left a partnership with his brother, CS Osborne in 1876 to go on his own. He produced tools under his name until his company was purchased by the CS Osborne company in 1905. The HF Osborne tools were and are respected for their fine quality. "

Found this helpful article online. Contact adhesive... also fondly known as "contact cement"... is a special adhesive for a special purpose. When spread on a surface, it dries by the quick evaporation of a flammable solvent. Like other adhesives, it sticks things together. But it has a unique characteristic no other adhesive shares. For a period of time after it appears to be completely dry and no longer tacky, it will still stick to itself with abandon! This makes it an excellent adhesive for gluing together materials that are nonporous. In your home, the most common use of contact adhesive are plastic laminate countertops in kitchens and bathrooms. Envision the perplexing problem solved by this product. You have two very wide pieces of material and both have limited porosity... particle board (the standard countertop substrate) and plastic laminate. Virtually every other adhesive would fail because the glue would never dry... the moisture or solvent could not escape from between them. Or drying would take so long that special clamps would be needed to keep the materials in contact for the lengthy drying period. Since the contact adhesive is already dry before assembly, this problem is... well... not a problem! Once the contact adhesive is applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry, the actual assembly of the two parts takes but a few minutes, and the countertop is useable immediately! Of course, there is no room for error with contact adhesive. Once it sticks, it is stuck for good! Disassembling items glued with contact adhesive usually requires damaging one or both of them. And does it stick fast... momentary contact is all that is needed for adhesion, making positioning and planning vitally important for success! Contact adhesive can be finicky when not used correctly. Most problems with contact adhesive failure are caused by: 1) not allowing the adhesive to dry fully before assembly 2) waiting too long before assembly 3) applying too thick a coating of adhesive 4) not applying enough adhesive. When used on a porous or semi-porous material such as wood or plywood, a first "priming" coat of contact adhesive may be needed to preseal the material. Otherwise, some areas may absorb too much adhesive to form a strong bond. This prime coat is followed by a second gluing coat. Following the label directions concerning drying times, application thickness, and using the proper tools will keep you on the right track! Contact adhesive is available in the traditional solvent-based formula and a newer water-based formula. Solvent-based contact adhesive dries in under 15 minutes but releases a highly flammable solvent into the air. Precautions must be taken to assure adequate ventilation to prevent accidental ignition of the fumes. Read the label for all precautions! Also, the article Level-Headed Low Down On Loose Laminates And Crappy Countertops has more on this topic.

I apply the contact cement and then let both sides at least skin over before putting them together. In my experience, that's good enough. You can hasten the condition by blowing on the surface of the adhesive. When the cement is first applied it is typically shiny. You want to wait for that shine to dull, indicating the adhesive is beginning to dry. If you put the pieces together right away you will get adhesion, but it will not be as effective in my experience. As far as availability of adhesives and such, it is an ongoing problem due to the lack of raw materials throughout the world. This has been discussed in a number of other threads. It will eventually get better, but will take some time to work itself out.

Slides, sandals and flip-flops are arguably different things and the appeal of many of them is the fact you can just slip or slide them on and go. I own some of each style and find that slides are by far the best, for me at least. Maybe one way to approach this would be to go to the dollar store or equivalent and see if they have flip-flops for sale and buy up multiple sizes and use those for patterns.

Don't discount hardware stores. The ones in my area carry dozens and dozens of adhesives including Weldwood and more.

Very nice work indeed. The lining looks very nice too. I like the idea of the detachable bag inside. That's a great solution to a common problem I also was unsure of the handle attachment, but hey, if it works, it works. And you obviously have tested it, so it is good to go.

Yes, very handy and attractive to boot. There's a lot to be said for having stuff where you can always find it! Ask me how I know.

Your workmanship is great as usual, but to me, it is the wrong way around. I much prefer to see the "accent" panels recessed, surrounded by smooth leather. I'm sure it is just a matter of taste. The exposed edges of the croc just don't look right to my eye.

Is the thread waxed? If so it could be on the surface and may rub off with a clean cloth. That’s one good reason to wax thread.

I've heard good things from people who do business with The Buckle Guy and they do feature zippers and components. Might be worth investigating. https://www.buckleguy.com/riri-zipper-chain/ Springfield Leather Co. is one that I go to for many leather items. They also feature zippers and zipper-related components. https://www.springfieldleather.com/search?keywords=zipper&page=1

There are just things you begin to pick up on. For example, does it exhibit strong pull-up characteristics? Many chrome tanned leathers have none. They also might have a finish on them, something which oil tanned leathers rarely do in my limited experience. If I'm questioning it I grab a piece, push a finger up from underneath and look at the surface. If it shows decent pull up and I can easily wipe it away with a quick rub, to me it is conclusive, oil tanned. Is there a specific reason you are concerned about this? Keep in mind most leathers will either say in the ad or you can contact the seller to verify.