TinkerTailor

Have you ever seen a spring guide presser foot for a 441? I do alot of stitching right at the edge of the foot, using my finger as a guide against the side of the foot while sewing. One of these feet would be ideal for this. I have considered making one, but it is not high on the list, and if china already makes one, why bother? I for sure can buy a couple of them from china for the time-cost it would take me to grind and silver solder one up myself from an existing clone foot... On that note, I have to say, it is sickening to look at clone foot prices for some machines and then compare them to what the resellers charge for 441 feet.......Genuine juki is one thing but $75 bux for a clone foot is crazy. The thing cost maybe pennies to make. OOOH AHHH, this one is stainless, That will add a dollar to costs......My feet are covered in dripped down oil all the time, not sure how stainless is an advantage anyways... The weird part is how few companies carry 441 accessories outside of the resellers.

Here is some images i have in my reference library: 144w: 144W102: 144W202: 144W302: 144W305:

FYI Here is a list of industrial machines including the 144's, I see yours has the extra long arm at 30". http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-100-199.html Singer did use the same castings for multiple machines sometimes, it may be that you can also use the lower casting from another machine model. This kind of parts interchange is well out of my knowledge. Good luck searching.

Nuttin a little jb weld kain't fix.

If you get pull the dots from scovil with a 1/4 inch post, that is the equivalent of 16 oz of leather. Should do half that with no problems. I have seen them with close to 1/2" post in a nautical supply store here on the west coast. No idea where they got them but they do exist. If i am there again, i will ask for sure.

A forward thinking company would pay their webmaster some big bux to add shopping cart functionality...

Doesn't have to be neetsfoot, btw, just some of your favourite conditioner to ensure the leather is not dry and the fibers slide against each other nice when you bend it. Waiting a couple days gives the conditioner time to chooch and even out. It also makes it easier to wet the leather to bend it.

Do one, two or all three of the following, and it should help: 1: yes, skive the backside. 2: wet form the fold. 3: 2-3 days before folding, neetsfoot oil the leather

Whatever you do, get the room ventilation and personal breathing filters worked out. Airbrushes are one thing, but higher volume spraying of oil dyes which contain volatile solvents like acetone creates a whole list of health and safety issues. Brain and lung damage aside, Atmospheric fires are not fun at all. Trust me, you NEVER want to experience one of these. I have seen one, not been in one. Basically once you have a high enough concentration of volatile solvents in the atmosphere, any tiny spark, and all the air around the spark turns to fire, almost instantly. It can and will fill the room with fire in milliseconds. Compressor motors starting up have caused these before.

This is one of the only instances where i would use a speedy stitcher. It would actually be pretty easy. I would do the outside, visible seem proper saddle stitch and then attach the pockets to the bag panels using the speedy stitcher. With some long tweezers or hemostats you can reach down inside and catch the loop with the backside thread, forming a stitch. Not the prettiest, which is why you do it on the hidden stitches.

That quote is cut and pasted from their terms and conditions directly. It may seem too easy but that is how they have it......

Its funny actually if you read the fine print for a weaver wholesale account, the bold underline is their doing, not mine: So for everyone not in a state listed in item one, print off a business card on your computer and mail it in.......

One thing i have noticed is if you use just Sno seal, and no additional finish or dye on natural veg, some hides darken to a brown while others get a definite red tinge. Sno seal is a white colourless paste so i must assume that some leathers are naturally more red. According to this site, different types of bark impart different colors. This may be effecting your results. http://www.braintan.com/barktan/2tannins.htm

Did you try? I do not see a place where a business license is required on the form here, Only a 30 dollar minimum for wholesale accounts. https://www.ohiotravelbag.com/NewCustomer.html

It would help to know the sub model of 144. The 144w came in several sub models with different arm configurations in long arm, high arm and regular. All would have different lower castings.

This gets to the other property of tool and knife steels that is seldom talked about. Hardness is one aspect and a crucial one to balance in getting a keen, non brittle edge, however what makes one 2 knives of equal hardness sharpen differently? Modulus of elasticity. How much a material can deform before it loses shape. Material deformation is what is happening when a burr is formed. Depending on the type of steel, when the pressure of cutting occurs at the edge, the material that is not removed can either flex away and return or deform and stay. The material that deforms and stays forms the burr. While hardness definitely is related to this property in that they are somewhat dependent on each other, It does differ between steel types. Obviously hardening will change the modulus of a given material but it can also differ between different steel types of the same hardness. The right balance gives you a hard durable sharp edge that is also easy to sharpen, because it is less prone to turn a burr. This is how i understand it anyways.

Most of the advertisers on the top of the page sell servo motor kits for any industrial machine, for not to much money. Look into a speed reducer as well. It can really help with the punch. Lots of threads on here about converting a machine to servo motor. $400 is not out of range for a good working machine and table, specially when you didn't have to deal with shipping.. Most users on here, save for a few old school clutch cowboys use a servo motor with a speed reducer or a swapped pulley set. Btw, You can alternate legs on the treadle to avoid custom pants patterns.

Now that you mention it, there is a commercial kitchen fixture recycling place near me.....May have to pop in and see what is repurposable.

Agreed, The only correct answer can come from an analysis of surviving old shields and testing them, as well as testing the fairy dust they used in the video to see if it is historically correct. It could be mostly sand and just used as a desiccant, and/or as a scavenger deterrent for all we know. I am quite interested in traditional leather use in Africa, though there is precious little info that i can find. Most of the history is likely lost because it was oral history that was never written down, and has been lost to colonization and all the other stuff that has happened in Africa in the last 250 years.

Before you replace it, make sure there is no thread pieces stuck down in their from your tangle. Get the bobbin case out, and check everywhere the thread goes for stray hunks of nasty.

A motor has magnets that get pulled/pushed by the magnetic field of the coil. If this magnetic field stayed the same, the magnets would attract to the closest point and stay there, stopping motion. By switching the polarity of the coil just as the motor gets to this stop point, it now repels to the next magnet which is the pulling one. This makes sure the next magnet in the direction of motion is always pulling the coil, and not pushing it. The constant switching of the poles creates this motion. This happens at 60 times a second with standard ac power and motors. Polarity switching is what makes it AC, alternating current as opposed to DC, direct current The one hick up is if the motor is powered down, and the coil starts with the opposite polarity it stopped with, it will go the opposite direction. Motors have a circuit that senses the motor position, and applies the correct polarity to the motor to turn the right way. It is completely random which state the polarity of AC power will be at the moment you start the motor, as it changes 60 times a second. If it is positive, motor goes one way, negative, it will go the other. This is what is broken in your motor. Sometimes it is inside the start cap, as an additional circuit to the start cap, sometimes it is somewhere else in the motor. Alot of times it is fixable. However, clutch motors have absolutely no resale value beyond scrap right now, so picking up a used one should be cheap. I know of 2 awesome motors local to me i could get for under 50 bucks each. One is a nice really nice low use juki motor and table. The whole machine and table fell of a tailgate of a truck during a shop move and broke the head, bending the table, However everything but the machine, and legs is still almost new. The other is a consew on craigslist for 25 bucks, may come with table. Also is a closing boat top shop so they may have other stuff you could get thrown in. They did sell a couple juki/consew flatbed walking foot machines for the 300-500 range a few months ago.

Alum is a naturally occuring mineral that was used by the egyptions as early as 1500bc, as well as traded around the world from the western egyptian deserts. (ancient borders, not current). Alum most certainly would have been available to these people, however it may have been valuable, and only used for important things like shields. Look it up on wikipedia. It has also been used more extensively as a dye mordant. From your link: "a stiff rawhide face backed by a carved, tensioned center stay and handgrip, the perimeter laced with goatskin around flexible Cordia wands. Then, alchemist concoctions of charred bone, ocher, limestone, and cow’s blood (the latter amusingly stored in an old Famous Grouse whiskey bottle)," Alum and limestone occur in the same places in nature and sometimes are intermixed in the same rock. These people may have a special sacred source for the best limestone for the shields, which just may be an alum containing source. Another link on alum: http://www.wovepaper.co.uk/alumessay1.html "The Ancients had discovered that alum possessed certain valuable qualities not found together in any other common substance: its extreme readiness to crystallize; the absence of colour as an indication of its purity (extremely important in dyeing); and its natural occurrence. Its sources were, therefore, identifiable with relative ease. Singer has pointed out, "that alum was obtainable pure was thus a technical accident and not the result of any considered rational plan or of any refined system of manufacture". The sophisticated methods of manufacture, referred to above, took millenia to evolve. The process that is of most interest to us in the present context, the one used in the alum industry of North Yorkshire, has been described as "a marvel of empirical industrial chemistry".[2] The extension of the alum industry from Egypt to other regions is an extremely complicated subject, partly due to the linguistic problems it raises, ensuring that one is concerned with alum and not with another substance; and, more important, the confusing effects on trade of one empire after another being superseded in Asia Minor and Eastern Europe, from Persia in the east, through North Africa to Spain in the west, continuing from early periods right up to the Middle Ages. The Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Arabian civilizations were all involved, together with other sources of influence, penetrating this world from India and, by the silk route, from China. For detailed information on the effect they had on the supply and use of alum, reference must be made to Singer's monograph. It was from all the sources mentioned above that the first methodical statements on the nature of alum were derived. The findings are set out in 8th-10th C. (A.D.) Arabian alchemical documents. By this time the Arabs had conquered the whole of North Africa and thus confronted, and even penetrated, the southern borders of Europe. Trade links between the two were strong and there was no shortage of European scholars who were able to read arabic and assimilate its learning. It might be noted at this juncture that it was just after this period that papermaking was undertaken for the first time by Europeans, albeit the use of alum in this activity lay sometime in the future."

Alum is a salt so you may have been right at first with the salt. Look up alunite, it looks similar in colour to what they used. They may very well have mixed it with wood ash and normal salt as well. I bet the documentarians would tell all with an email inquiry. .

It is a workbench not a kitchen table. Who cares if it is stained. Use the parchment paper, but don't sweat it if the table gets some on it. Wipe up the mess, and get back to making stuff.. New mdf/masonite every year is cheap when you figure out how many man hours you spent cleaning stains. Man hours that could be used making profitable products. Btw, most everything wipes up off of polyurethane clear. If you want a super stain free and durable finish use this: http://systemthree.com/products/clear-coat-low-viscosity-laminating-epoxy

That will entirely depend on pulley sizes.