TinkerTailor

springfield sells them for 80 bux: free shipping over 75 bux. http://springfieldleather.com/32886/Stitching-Horse%2COriginal/

That is REALLY cool, I would have the jog wheel programmed a little different myself, but that is the beauty, you just change it in software. I would add a button or two. One to put the needle buried, and just rising, perfect for turning and one to place the needle up, right where it is easiest to remove the work. I do like how you can set it to a position, and click for a whole stitch. It is awesome to see more modern technology that is commonplace in other industries applied to sewing machines. Clutch motors are basically the same technology used in steam powered line shaft shops. Machinists even put vfds on drill presses now they are so cheap and steppers are everywhere with cnc, and cheap. Bout time someone started making this kind of stuff for sewing. I know how all that electronicalistic mombo-jumbo works, However i choose not to tinker with it myself. I'll leave that to you. One question, Are you going to make a stepper stitch length adjuster to hit the corner exactly?

I use math to find the outside circumference from the users belt measurement and the thickness of the leather. I have been really good about keeping these types of comments to myself on this forum, however once in a while i let one slip.. Other day i told someone to use super glue to help hold a jewelers loupe in their eye socket...... I just may have a little bit of a sarcastic streak away from this site, both online and in real life..... Here i try to be serious and give proper advice.

Use golf tees with no wax. The tees are tapered, so they should seal good. The wax may cause paint issues. On bikes, i have used a drinking straw with a lengthwise slit. You can roll it a little smaller than the hole, and it will expand out to fill it. Test first, some straws depending on plastic type may be effected by the solvents in the paint.

Flat or even french seams on a curve where you separate the layers and lay them flat are extra difficult........Tape may be the key here, as it is removable (even the permanent stuff. Not without a little damage to the material, but it comes off.) You could also do hand stitched "tacks" around the corner on the stitch line that you can cut out later after/while you make the complete seam with the machine. IMHO the tack method should be saved for the most difficult areas as it is a PITA......

They are similar, but not the same. The temp of a soldering iron is too high and the tips are not right. I believe the tool in the link has the thermocouple and an induction coil in the head to better control temp as well. It has some advantages, however the price is crazy for how simple it is to build with the right tools. The base is a soldering base with the temp turned down electronically and the head is a piece of steel rod heated by a magnetic coil with a hunk of appropriately machined steel brass brazed on to the tip. Not hard in a shop, once you have a design worked out. Even with design costs, $1000 is alot. For that i would like a little less blobbyness in the brass braze and a little nicer handle than a hollowed out broomhandle. Premium products need premium materials. For 20-30 bucks in materials, you could have a very classy looking unit, with a nice etched brass faceplate on the box and a rosewood or something handlepiece. Make it worth the extra price. Make it look nice. It is not alot to ask for at that price range.

I was playing around on the site, I found that they charge $180 dollars for the straight handle upgrade to one side of the dual handle option instead of the standard one? In the picture the only difference is the wood. The straight one is easier to make, it is just a cylinder..... I guess after they got you to pay $1000 for a temp adjustable soldering iron with a couple tips, why not bend you over and charge $180 more to cut less wood off of a dowel........Wow.

I should also mention that chromexcel is not the easiest to glue, especially grain to grain. The waxes and oils can mess up and resist glue. Surface prep by scuffing is the key to any good glue joint. Veg-tan glues easy compared to chromexcel. Practice and be prepared to change glues You need real cement for this leather. I use Lepage blue heavy-duty contact cement and it works. Get it at the hardware store. Others have had failures with most of the lesser glues sold at tandy when working with chromexcel. I like low smell glues for everything that I can use them for, however in some situations, "It won't stick if it don't stink". In the USA i think it is weldwood blue they use. It is the same as the lepage i use. They also make basting tape, a double sided tape, which some use for leather seams. Tandy sells it. Have not had good luck with it. It is not strong enough and the seam can separate during stitching leading to messed up projects, or after stitching exposing gummy tape balls...

That second one has a really classy liner. I like how close you have matched it to the leather colour. Not easy to do bright colours and keep the piece looking cohesive. Nice work. The broncos one has to be the team colours, so it is what it is. It all works together well, however I would never pick orange and purple to go together for a normal non team pride bag........Just sayiin. Not faulting you, I think the bronco colours are hideous. The second bag? Spot on. edit: Just noticed the monogram on the strap billets. Nice touch. I sometimes use that spot for my makers stamp.

A fileteuse tool is used on edges and for creasing by high end bag/wallet people. They are not cheap, several users have cobbled together their own. Look up that word, "fileteuse" you will find the start of the rabbit hole...... The old way was to use special irons that were heated over a candle or an alcohol flame. Old time shoemakers would burn the stray fibers off over a candle when vamping uppers. This also slightly shrinks and hardens the remaining fibers in the edge. There are a couple hand made shoe vids on youtube that show and explain this. Btw candles leave soot and alcohol burners do not.

The posts in this shop are square, and they were round in the first photo, this is a different shop.

The machine marks on the bed under the paint show that the ways on the mill that they used to fly cut it were worn. The cutter dragged the leading edge on one side and the trailing edge on the other. Btw, I bet there is bondo filler under the paint on that machine covering the flaws in the casting. and deep machining marks. It is a common thing to find when guys restore old lathes and mills.

That machine has been repainted, and bears the marks on the arm of having sewn miles and miles of binding, probably at a factory. It is likely worn out. Unless you know what you are buying, and what questions to ask, likely an ebay machine will cost you double or more. It is always cheaper to buy something once for a little more than buying it twice because the first one was a junker. This is why we tell you to talk to a dealer or two. The less you know about industrial machines, the more likely you will get screwed unless you have someone who knows the market helping you. Dealers make money on service, and generally don't want to sell you a lemon. It doesn't pay for them in the long run. Many of them unload the machines that no-one else wants on ebay........

It is also a 10 year old post.......

Glue. You use contact cement to cement the edges together, and then stitch, no notches necessary. This is much stiffer than chromexcel, it is 4-5 oz veg-retan latigo and i was able to do these externally, which you could not do with notches(darts):

While it may seem cheap, look at the shipping and possibly duty. There are several places in the US that can supply you with the leather you need. There are very few people on here that have used the italian leathers, while most have used hermann oak, w&c and horween. There are many options available to have leather split at the retailers of these leathers in the US, as well some of the tannerys will sell direct and split it as well. I should say i don't have as much experience in the US market as some, being a Canadian, I should also say that i have a local supplier in canada for italian veg and it is amazing stuff. Especially if all you have seen is tandy. Btw, I get real tuscan veg locally for the same price as tandy florence shoulders tanned in mexico...... I would not however order just a hide from italy sight unseen, ...yet.

Very difficult. That is why they make off the arm machines. You put the bag on the cylinder and sew down the side instead of around it. The feed of those machines is 90 degrees to normal. You could try to sew the seam in 2 sections, middle outward and hide the thread knots on the inside.

Leathermachineco brands their own 441 clones and paints them, so they are the source as it is their brand. The canadian cobra seller gets everything from california and marks it up a bunch. Cowboy however is global brandname, same as hightex of which toledo is one of the retailers.The email link to the north american distributor is neels saddlery.

Maverick leather may have something, Siegel leather sells bookbinding leather in Cali. Be prepared to pay more for bookbinding leathers because bookbinders want impeccable hide. Some of the bigger saddlery suppliers will split any of their hides to any thickness for free or a small fee.

oops, I saw 111w153.....I posted the wrong manual.......not correct for a 111W103. Not sure how a 5 looked like a 0 but whatever..

I think B are irons for caulking wooden boats. They all look hand forged, and all have a point that has been hammered on. The blade is used to push in rope/fiber caulking between the boards. They needed different thicknesses for weird gap sizes in old boats. C looks like it may be a shop made scraper of some kind. It is adjustable in some way by those shims, got a pic of the bottom? D the left looks like it may be a machinists layout tool, used on a surface plate to mark elevations on a part. It could be valuable, and looks old. It may be a part of a bigger instrument.The thing on the right looks like a tiny hole punch or hole position marker. It is probably shop made Btw, I am an amateur toolbox archaeologist......and I have seen quite a few boat/sail makers tool kits with leather tools in them and listed as either boat building supplies OR saddle supplies. Most just assume the profession the toolbox was used for was saddlery, however alot were not. Sail and net mending kits are listed as leather tools frequently. Bunch of weird awls and a grommet set do not make a leather toolkit. Makes a nice sail repair kit though. I think you got a boat shop toolbox. The one in the corner with the leather tools in it for when they needed them. This would explain the planer parts. There is no room for the guide on the side of a boat. The planer would be used freehand. What other tools were in it?

Look up the local guys (within an hour or two drive) and give them a call. They may have something for you already and having a local guy who can help you with a new machine is worth tons. If this is your first industrial, you will have problems and frustrations, and this is normal. The local guy will be a huge asset, as he is your connection to needles when you need them NOW and thread when you have to match the color in person, or that screw you dropped through the floor boards.... Industrial machines are NOT sit down and jam in fabric machines like home ones. They require at least some setup changes every time you switch from thick to thin materials or leather to fabric, or change thread size etc..the local guy can show you how instead of talking you through it. Also, i noticed you listed baby blankets as one of the things you want to do with it, be careful trying to get a machine that will do everything. Most industrials are a compromise, and a machine that sews heavy and thick well won't do as good on thin delicate things. I suggest a robust home machine, even an old singer or white treadle for the fabric usage and use the industrial for the heavy stuff and leather.

No need for a lathe, a drill press could do it. Cut the old pin flush, drill it out and press in a new pin. Done. With the right drills (carbide drills for hard stuff), it is a 10 minute job. Btw, the shanks of old drill bits make for good sources for pin material for this usage and come in multitudes of precision diameters. A little epoxy will make sure the pin stays in.

I think you are looking for 2oz, not 0.2. ).2oz is the thickness of paper.... Try some of the other suppliers advertising on the top of the page. Tandy is not known for the best leather at the lowest prices...Or good selection. It would help to know where you are from, as we are a global community and leather supplies vary greatly around the globe.

How about a copy of the manual. http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/111W152_153_154_155.pdf