TinkerTailor

I think the part I like the most about your videos is the efficiency of motion, and the lack of wasted time. Youtube is full of videos of guys who fiddlefart around the shop. That giant stropping board is a perfect example of being efficient. One full stroke on that is the same as 10-20 on a little small benchtop strop. Get it done and move on. Know where to be finicky and precise, and where it is not necessary, and work accordingly. That is what i have been picking up, the efficiency of motion. Not that hobbyist teaching hobbyist isn't helpful, efficient production techniques are sometimes lost in this environment.

Good to see it is back sewing. Learning curves can be a monsterous hill to climb. I am surprised it even sewed the first six inches with the needle 180 degrees out... I made the guess that when the machine skipped after a few inches of good sewing, as explained, that a bolt on a thrust collar or something may have been snug but not tight and slipped once the machine is loaded up. I guess i guessed wrong. Plus it was an excuse to slip in a vague star trek reference... Ron, theoretically, Is there any way a needle could turn in the holder while sewing if it was not tight enough? Like could the thread tension do it, or perhaps a twisted point needle winds its way around with each hole?

Welcome to the site, fellow Canuck. Hows the weather there? Flat?...... What part of Sask are you from? I grew up near Lloydminster.

In those threads, they talk about half tanned leather, which is basically still rawhide in the core being used for historical scabbards to make them stiff. This leather is not common any more. I just stumbled across it this morning: If the site loads in German, there is an English language button near the bottom next to the cart on the right menu. You are looking for the harness shoulder category. http://www.lederhaus.de/leather/harness-shoulder.php At the bottom, they have orthopedic leather, which is half tanned. Do not know if this is available outside Germany yet...

Its funny, I have used illustrator, and autocad in my professional life for 15 years and amateurishly for 20. I used to be the tech support for an autocad school. I designed timberframe houses in 3d. I made a boatload of logos, gig posters and other print stuff in illustrator. I can still use about half of illustrator using keyboard shortcuts. What I have learned is simple designs are still usually faster by hand. Even complex assemblies are often faster to prototype in real life. I have found that I am best with a piece of paper, a ruler, a pencil and a compass. It just works for me when making patterns. If i am going to repeat the pattern, or pass it on digitally, i will fire up the confuzer system and plot it out. I also use story sticks for patterns. Look them up. You can fit the whole pattern for a rectangular multi pocket gussetted messenger bag on a strip of paper. 2 feet long an 2 inches wide.....coloured pens help... Geometry is so complexly simple.

There is an old thread on here on this topic. It should help. It is really detailed. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24228 Also: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14005

Really nice video. I think that video may clear things up for quite a few on this site. One thing I noticed, and gave me a giggle, proves that old habits die hard, and muscle memory is strong. Even though you pre-punched the holes, you couldn't help putting the right needle into the hole first, then pulling it out, like an awl.......... Thank you sir, keep it up.

On my website i have a bunch of photos of a case i did that was very similar to what you are trying to accomplish. No descriptions, but look at the pictures in the slideshow. It is a case for a bicycle lock that laces onto the bike frame. (the photos are actually of 3 cases that are almost identical) I used a stitch marking wheel, and then punched all the holes with an awl first, Then i stitched it. I used heavy duty contact cement. There is a photo there of the stitching in progress, http://tinkeroutfitters.weebly.com/how-we-do-things.html Great job with the forming. getting the hang of the stitching is not that hard, you just have to practice a bit. Btw, some people have used a dinner fork to mark the stitch positions, and then poked the holes with an awl. On thinner leathers i have used an old treadle sewing machine to punch my holes for me. I have one at home that will just do 7spi. The machine does not even need to be able to make a stitch, you are going to run it without thread as an automatic hole punch.

One thing to consider is the nature of a metal lathe. It is not nearly as easy to make the radius at the bottom of the slots, unlike a wood lathe. Standard toolbits need to be moved in the x and y axis at the same time to make the curve. This is not easy for even an advanced machinist. The other ways to do it are either with a tracer attachment to the lathe which require an accurate pattern of the end parts profile for the lathe to follow or by using specially shaped forming tools to make the grooves. These tools would likely be job specific and/or custom ground. What this means is there is a significant amount more prep, setup, skill and possibly custom tooling involved in making the grooves on a metal lathe. This makes it cost more. Almost any monkey can gouge some grooves into a wood dowel on a wood lathe.

http://www.romefast.com/

A wise man once told me, "Fortune favours the bold, you will never get what you do not ask for." Nice find. Askin around paid off.

My road it may be lonely just because it's not paved. It's good for drifting, drifting away. I feel like i should also comment on some of the other things in my photo, there is alot there. I like to have a little of everything within arms reach of me when i am making one offs or designing. My 441 sits behind me. The bench can be cleared off and dragged out from under the shelf to work on all sides for bigger projects or production. We have a second bedroom full of the textile stuff and storage for leather. To the right is a butcher block kitchen cart i do small piece cutting at. It has fishing tackle boxes full of buckles and things on the shelves. The dremel drill press gets used for burnishing and a bunch of other stuff. I have lamps everywhere and a few holes drilled in the benchtops to move the desk lamps where i need them. I use the lamp shades to store my binder clips and clamps when not in use. I use alot of these. The jars on the wall are spice jars full of rivets and crap. Some are labeled, most i can see into. The racks were a buck or two at the thrift store. The shelf is mounted to the wall with h/d closet shelf braclets. Along the edge of the shelf is a good chunk of hand tools. They are all stuck into pieces i salvaged from a cheesy wooden collectable spoon display, again it was a dollar. On the right is a wood block with holes in in for dremel bits. Most of the stuff on the shelf is kinda obvious, there is a subwoofer and speakers hiding in there. On the far right is the sub and my micrometers. To the left is a plastic drawer thing full of punches, a treadle scroll saw and an amazing Wynton Marsalis record Of course to the upper right is Waylon The record in the middle my grandmother bought in italy in the early 70's i think. And that super awesome painting is from Cuba. I saw the car in it on Anthoney Bourdain's Cuba episode..... Everything you see is a tool to inspire creation. And of course, Pooh, Eeyore and Tigger too!!

Its hand made in Canada, it has stress cracks around the lugs on the head tube, which is why that one is a wall hanger. I just got a mint 1986 Kona cindercone frame in white with red splatter paint and the fork is there! Apparently it may have been the first ever kona in the UK if i can beleive the guy i got it from. It was only 40 bux. I may have a few bikes.... I also have a dozen or so vintage brooks leather saddles kicking around that go back to the 30's. and a bunch of weird internal gear stuff. High end vintage bikes are my day job. I commute 13 miles each way on a steel 3-speed. Its a drum braked 2011 Surly steamroller with 20000 miles on it...many of them passing lycra clad carbon riders.

Sounds like a tech may not have lovingly caressed one of the adjustment bolts with nearly enough torques and she slipped, Captain. Needed 2.5 more torques at least......

Just a taste:

1/16 is basically 4oz. It is not the best machine for the job but it should do 2+ layers of that fabric. I have done a test with 4-6 oz of fabric and 207 and it sewed fine.

Chicago screws?

Oh, you can't condition with wax based conditioners before resolene. Weatherproofing is a wide category and could include various sealants like waxes, oils, laquers, silicone, etc. All of these have differing effects depending on product and should be tested on scrap first. All product combos should be tested on scrap first actually.

You have appeared to have the early signs of an affliction known as the oldtool-itis. The only known treatment is the regular topical application of ferric-oxide suspended in petroleum distillates.

I think both of us were envisioning a repositionable pedal, not a fixed position one. If it is fixed, yes the rods will work. If the pedal is moved for different sewing positions, or the table height is adjustable, the pedal needs a flexible link. Some motors have a drive by wire electrical connection to the pedal, others use rods. The rod ones can be converted to flexible with some ingenuity and possibly some cursing.

Yes the jog wheel is really just a mini handwheel. It is the "click to stitch" functionality that is the key and the foreshadow to the other functionality this setup has. It is an incredibly powerful computer for the amount of data and control involved with a sewing machine, and the programming support in the CNC machining world is immense. Now that that functionality has been proven, the controller is open to many other variables like programmable speeds and stitch counts. If you are in production, you could measure a seam, work out the number of stitches before the next turn, lets say 100, and then tell the machine to go slow for 10, ramp up and rip the next 80 and then slow down for the corner, stopping with the needle up 1-2 stitches from the corner to allow the user to place the stitch perfect. Stitching runs of belts this could be really nice. There are so many ways this can go. It is basically 1/3 of a fully cnc sewing setup. The other thirds are stitch length/feed control and material steering. The motor is pretty universal and machine independent, however controlling stitch length and feed is very machine specific. And you still need someone to steer. In reality, full CNC is going to be a pain in the donkey for the types of work most on this site do. The needle position part Uwe has conquered is the most useful for the small project sewer. The second part, stitch length automation comes up much less often as a need, and probably would seldom get used. The lever is right there. For the third part, having the machine steer the work for you takes all the fun and fear away........Might as well order leather stuff from china...

I would be really surprised if they told you. Quality, original hardware can make a brand successful and is not easy to find as you know. It takes time and research. Both cost money, and sometimes there are minimum orders, or perhaps they are custom. Due to these facts it is not likely they would give up the secret to someone operating in the same market.......That is just business. There are people on this site in business, as well as hobbyists. While everyone here likes to share a lot of information around, and tips fly, most of those in business probably have a few secrets, techniques, and sources, that they keep close to their chest and do not share publicly, I know i do. That is also the nature of business. Where I live, Vancouver B.C, it is coastal and there is quite a big marine industry. Every boat shop will have at least some stainless hardware like snaps and clips and doo-dads. Do some poking around in the boat shop/marine upholstery/sailing trades in your area. They may have the hardware or the info you need.

An industrious person could make a mechanical connection from the motor to the foot using bicycle brake cabling and a bass drum pedal.....heel brake and/or lift functionality is possible but more complex.

I agree with Dwight. I should clarify, I also use belt hole to buckle bar measurements when I have them for belts. If i have to use a measurement of the outside of the jeans without a belt on I use math to get me closer. Close is close enough. That is why the belt has multiple holes......One day the wearer is in thin cotton chinos, and the next he is in canvas carhartts with a pocket knife and a cell phone holder attached. That alone would create a difference of a hole or two. Which pants did he wear the old belt with....Not a bad thing to clarify if you are picky, I also mathalize things like wine bottle wraps, wrist cuffs, friction fit mason jar sleeves, custom bicycle grips, etc. where there is no existing belt measurement and the tolerances are tighter.

I agree 3 phase motors are expensive, I use the drill press example cause many of the big ones have them already, hooked to a step pulley belt drive and/or gearbox to change speed. A twisty knob is way easier.