TinkerTailor

Smallest treadle pulley but also one that is heavy as possible. The flywheel effect will help the machine when it hits a hard spot.

It may be alum. Alum tanning is much more common in desert regions because it requires less water, and no tree bark, which is rare in deserts. If this is the case, it would mean it is not rawhide at all.

Likely the hard parts of the motor are fine, and there is a problem with a switch or the start capacitor. It may be fixable easily by an alternator/generator/motor repair guy. Read the second post of this thread for some info about whats going on: http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=338598

Whatever works and you have.handy. Stay away from woods that split easily. I have a mountain ash round because that is the type of tree that blew over in yard next door in a wind storm.

Its funny, with hand stitching i make designs to limit the stitching, and with my machine, I am the opposite, I am designing things with useless topstitching for style only...Like french seams.

Embossing roller: https://www.pethardware.com/en/embossing-rolls-machine/

I do it all with a knife. I scratch the design onto the leather around the pattern with an awl and then freehand cut on the scribe line with a knife. I use a knife similar to this one, but with a rounded instead of angular spine to the blade: http://www.hydetools.com/products/heavy-utility-bevel-point-knife-bg268 A good cutting surface and a sharp knife with a handle you can get some force into is key. If the knife is flexy, or the surface is wood, the knife may wonder and follow the grain of the wood. If you cant put enough pressure to cut all the way through in the first pass, the knife is dull or the handle is too small and flimsy. Making multiple passes with a utility knife as some like to do is not the cleanest, fastest or proper way. Utility knives will work, however they are rarely sharp enough out of the box. They also have an edge geometry that is not the ideal for leather. Plus the damn tip always breaks off in the cutting surface and you have to dig it out, or scratch stuff later..... Since I am right handed, my knife blade is almost flat on the left side and has the bevel on the right. Because of this flat side, and the sharpness, My edges are actually shiny and slick after cutting, even in oil tan. If the bevel is on the leather side, it forces the leather to squish a little just behind the cutting edge and you lose the crispness of the edge.

There are a few videos of hand made shoes on youtube that have brief glimpses of their use. Leatherworker.net has very little shoe info and not very many experts. This site, however, has lots of of shoe and boot info: http://www.thehcc.org/ Look for the guild library on the lower left. Many of the other 'reprint' titles are already on the internet as pdfs, you just need to search for the title.

Here is mine, It uses a 441 style front of machine mounted winder and a sewing machine motor as well: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=66750&hl=%2Bbobbin+%2Bwinder

and they get oiled properly of course. Those old singers are much more forgiving of forgetting to oil it this week.....

I also have a sphinx machine, a 27. 1908 i think. ..... That is what i meant. I misread his post, answered him completely wrong, then went back, edited it and fixed my post but ended up with an extra K......Singer model names turn into a mess when memory gets involved......Funny thing is, the 27 is one of the few i do not have a pdf for. I have the real deal manual.

7-27 is a different machine.He is refering to a 27k. a 7-27 is a double needle industrial machine for sewing tarps and sails. It is listed here: http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html

Since Horween is manufactured in the USA it should be little or no duty, Nafta and stuff. Worth looking into since you are way closer to them. I do know that importing industrial sewing machines(even from china) for manufacturing purposes is supposed to be duty free as well, FYI

Don't know where to get that exact buckle, however there may be something you like on this site if you have not seen it already: Tandy has a similar clipped corner buckle. http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/parts/buckles.htm

And heavy duty sandals....... I have looked at sole irons a few times wondering how they would work as an edge creaser, btw

I have heard another use for these is chamfering holes to countersink the back of rivets and things. Apparently you just put one toe in the hole and ring around the rosie. While on my bicycle today i was trying to picture what the angle of the blade and the length of the toe would do to the angle of the bevel in the hole...Cant quite grasp it yet but i know it would have an effect. Maybe the shop modified angled ones relate to this usage? Shop adaptations of tools are really fascinating when you are aware of the purpose, and can see the brilliance, However they are really frustrating when you can't see the purpose. "Why would that stupid hide smasher do that to a tool? He ruined it....." I just looked at my go-to tools and probably half are modified from their original purpose or home made. Some I bought cheap because they have been modified and were "ruined", however i saw what the deal was. My favourite stitching awl is hand ground out of a needle file, jammed into a dowel. I have modellers made out of old automotive valve stems. I got a simple looking bench knife for a couple bucks somebody has reground into a shape i had never seen before, and the more i use it, the more subtleties i find. It is amazingly useful. Perhaps some day when i have time i will post a writeup on it somewhere here.The list goes on. Some guys buy everything. Back in the day when overnight shipping and ebay were not an option, you made stuff out of what you had. I still do. That is why I go by Tinker.

What end of Canada are you in?

Try to right mouse button click on the link to the download, and select "save link as". If that does not work, maybe send a pm to a moderator? Perhaps your account has not been enabled fully. Non members are blocked from downloading by default.

I think a differentiation needs to be made between cash counting/overcharging/undercharging and flat out theft. Theft of product hurts everyone. Mistakes at the till probably do balance out in the long run. The cost, if there is one, is small compared to the cost to pursue the money, both in man hours and reputation points. Plus, with mistakes at the till, there is a whole grey area over what exactly, legal contract wise, a sale represents and what responsibilities each party has after the sale. Everywhere you go, filling your pockets and walking out is illegal. Here in Canada we have got rid of the penny and they round all cash transactions to the nearest $.05. Digital transactions do not round, they are exact still. Soooo, If i save the pennies I pay cash, however if it rounds up, I pay with a card. It is petty, I know but i also know i am ahead in the rounding game........If only bythe price of a coffee at starbucks....

Side of the highway? Here is an old school canadian supplier, Do not know if they ship to the states. If they don't they may have a US option for you. https://www.halfordsmailorder.com/eSource/ecom/eSource/items/items-5-S1-lV1LFCS-lV2L-FUR-lV3L-RACCOON-lV4L-RACCOON-lV5L-RACCOON.aspx?store= edit: they do not ship to the states. And that is Canadian dollars which are below 75 cents American right now. You could have it shipped to windsor ont, and pop across from detroit to get it. The american dollar goes a long way in Canada right now.

try the link in a private browser window. Alot of links on that site require a login.

Thanks man, i always like new old source material. Third link is unavailable due to copyright btw.

I use it all the time. Car stereo guys use it to stretch the fabric or vinyl over speaker boxes. It works great. I have a daily carry latigo bag lined with wool this way and it is staying put. I cycle with the bag in the rain..... Careful putting it over finishes, or near other kinds of contact cement. I used it to line some leather wallets with silk, and i pre-sealed the backside of the leather with resolene first to prevent the leather from bleeding dye into the silk. It worked at first, but 4 days later i discovered the glue had failed and turned to a slimey gooey mess. Some research told me the resolene was at fault. Experiments with using brush on cement on one side and super 77 on the other resulted in the same thing, initially it stuck hard, but after a couple days it let go. Aparrently just the fumes from another type of contact cement drying near it can do this. Like if you were to use spray for the wide open areas and then brush for the edges.. Now I just put a double coat light-medium on both sides of the join. Let one dry almost to no tack, respray lightly, wait till max tack, and stick them together. Get it right the first time, there is no second try. It seems to work fine to block dye transfer alone if i do it this way and never lets go. Take a trick from painters and use masking tape to mask your glue areas.

I would pick the first one, The second the jaws do not look like they meet properly, and it appears the movable jaw hinge is worn and/or sloppy. Something is not right with it.

He is talking about the kind of stepper motor Uwe used in his project. They cost alot more than a servo. No normal sewing servo motor is arduino controllable,.....yet. That would require some scoping and reverse engineering to do, and in the long run is not as configurable. Hey Darren, while a treadle would work for most, some of the leather workers around here have issues with the lower body, and are unable to operate a treadle. This hand control system could prove immensely valuable to someone with special needs. Ever seen a hand control converted car? Not a cheap process but if that is what is required to get your mobility back, you do it. I agree that this is a limited market project, and Uwe is fully aware and has stated such. He does not care it appears, this is just for fun primarily but with known potential for actual usage. Sometimes you take the path that you know is a dead end, just to see the sights along the way.