TinkerTailor

That is pretty cool, thanks Uwe. By the name plate, It appears to be a 1/25hp motor on a 32:1 ratio reduction. It says the output rpm is 100, so that would make the motor rpm 3200. At the 1.3 amps listed draw and 120 volts, that is only 156 watts......pretty small motor spinning fast. With the 1:1 chain drive, max speed would be 1.6 stitches a second. In order to double the speed you need to half the reducer gear, to 16:1 which would overtax that motor on this machine. It is a robust setup as is, but with the small high rpm motor at a high gear multiplication, Fast speed probably isn't an option. Not a huge deal on a patcher.

Try these guys, If they don't have them they can make them, Made In Usa. http://www.usbind.com/collections/chicagoscrews

In your mind, just pretend you spilled glue all over a finished holster and had to scrap it....

Pictures would help a lot. Have you contacted the maker? Perhaps they can do it, or at least tell you what finish was used so you can do it yourself. Most makers will put some kind of sealant over dye. In some cases finish may be several layers of dye, antiques and sealants. Each may have a different ideal removal method. Depending on what has been done already, what you want to do may not be possible and the end result may be much worse looking.

Look at the cost of shipping hides, and the cost of shipping back crap and your time to do so, then seriously consider traveling to a supplier to pick the leather yourself. In the long run, depending on distance, it may be cheaper both in dollars and time if you want top quality. If you are the one picking it, places that may not be trustable mail order may have good deals. Tandy is not likely to be one of these. We'll see what happens with the recent ousting of the CEO...

I have several different 441 manuals from different clone makers. Most are scans of photocopys of a chinese one with the text replaced, and then photocopied again. All use the same diagrams, some are still legible. Interestingly, I have found one that still contains the pages on setting the backstitch so it is the same as the forward. This is the elusive setting no-one can find.....Not an easy adjustment, Interesting that the pages have been removed from the manuals of most of the clones. This is a feature some advertise their machines do while others don't.....And is part of why you should pay more for their clones.

No prob. I like to do research, and i coincidentally was searching for info on Heinisch scissors, also from Newark in the same timeframe, and a few of the sources overlapped.

Save the best for the last one for the night: This is another gem from the crates. The smokey whispy clarinet at 2 minutes....wow. Artie Shaw, Stardust:

I also am always digging for the rare grooves, the unreleased, the oddities. Sometimes there is gold where no one else looked. Here are a couple examples, which contain some great musicianship. Recorded in 1941 before the band was broke up by the war and released in the 80's for the first time Bob Wills Big Band: And here is a Glenn Miller rarity since he is what started this all: Sleepy Lagoon, also recorded by Harry James:

Lets get things swinging: Here are a few I have in my collection on 78 and a great live recording. Records and music have been a huge piece of my life. I traveled as a festival dj for many years every summer. I was known for pulling out tracks like this at electronic dance parties. My granny taught me what real music is. Kanye can get stuffed. Freddie Slacks Boogie Woogie is a little known but great album, this is an awesome track, Southpaw Serenade: Then there is Woody Herman Orchestra's Masterpiece, Woodchoppers Ball: And for the clarinet lover, This is from 1963, Joe Darensbourg, Sweet Georgia Brown with Satchmo in Australia. This recording is amazing. Check the tounge bump technique....:

I searched for 40mm banding figuring there was something in metric land close which led me to those two links.

Have to say, Glenn was good, but Duke Ellington was the game changer for me. Money Jungle....

Glen Miller played the whole orchestra at the same time.

I would just send him his money, and cease communication. Not worth your time to make another one. Can't please them all, specially if they are trying to be displeased.

A further trick is to set a pair of dividers to exactly 4 stitches in length, and then use them to make a mark on the stitch line exactly 4 stitches before the corner. If you hit this mark, you will also hit the corner. You can use this as a guide for how much to shorten or lengthen the last 4 stitches to hit the corner, hiding the difference across a couple stitches. If you end up a half stitch off, it is really hard to hide in the last stitch, but can be hidden in the last 4 or 5 if you have a frame of reference. Most of the feet that are sold for these machines originated as shop modified feet someone made for saddle work, which were then mass produced. A dremel and a cutoff wheel will make your foot into an open toe one in no time. Just polish it good after to eliminate any burrs and sharp spots.

Denigrate is defined as "To criticize unfairly". As he politely posted earlier, you are in over your head, which is the reason you needed the help in the first place. He simplified things, and gave you a solution which is workable, and an alternate which will for sure work if the first does not. He also posted earlier that if the info given here is too complex the job is also. Caps and electricity are dangerous. Amateurs get themselves dead all the time. You have demonstrated an amateur ability with respect to the diagnosing and fixing of a sewing machine motor through your questions and comments. He stated this fact. You not being able to look up the part number and values of the cap you have and get a match, specially after he researched it and told it to you was the icing on the cake. He in no way was unfair in stating that you do not know what you are doing here, and thus was not denigrating you. He was putting you in your place. Have a cup of tea, come back tomorrow.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=68864&p=449817

Get the next size bigger, install it and then use a dremel or a router flush cut bit to clean it up, the same way you would do laminate. Edit: Here ya go: http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/page/31/catalog/Master_Catalog_Vol_42 http://charterindustries.com/products/t-molding/

Art is one of many people here who give massive amounts of advice from decades of experience in many fields. He is a huge asset to this site and everyone in this community. He has graciously given you very good advice and the answers to your questions already, as have others, FOR FREE. He will give advice to anyone with basic knowledge and a willingness to research and learn. Try to get this much advice out of a motor shop, or a sewing machine shop for free sometime. Specially for a problem that has more than one fix for under 40 dollars........some fixes be under 10 bux..... At professional consulting rates, you probably have 100-200 dollars in advice here from several experts. My local sewing machine guy will not touch a machine for less that 40 bux. Goes up from there. He is not denigrating, he is stating a fact. You do not have the skills yet. If you did, you would not ask the questions you have. He is not going to be the one to teach you these skills. A bit of basic knowledge and 10 minutes googling would have shown you if the cap is rated the same, it will be the same. He looked up the cap in your motor and then looked up a replacement for you, and you still questioned him. What is wrong with him drawing the line at how much free info he wants to give, and to what level he wants to talk you through it? There are several solutions to your problem in this thread already. It is up to you to research the parts of those solutions you do not understand, and then choose which one works for you.

The link is right there in blue.

They do make the same torque, it is the smooth change from one rpm to another that gets lost at the lower speed settings. It may not effect more expensive servo motors and may be related to the resolution of speed sensor in the controller. With the motor shaft turning faster, it can sense rpm more accurate and thus adjust it smoother when you step on the pedal. Also, a speed reducer does not change the torque the motor puts out. A motor only has so much energy, which is a balance between torque and speed. It operates within a designed range for the load and speed most want it to be used for. We want more power and slower than they are designed for, so enter the speed reducer. It uses mechanical advantage after and independent of the motor to increase torque at the expense of speed, which was unwanted anyways. With enough speed reducers, and assuming very little friction in the system, a sewing servo motor could lift a locomotive, it would just take a very very long time.

Without a pattern in the way, you can use light and shadows to help guide the blade. A lot of the time, I find I am using the shadow the blade casts to help guide me. I turn off the overhead light and use a couple lamps for more directional side lighting. I have multiple sources of light in my shop, so there are several shadows cast at different angles onto the work by the knife, all converging on the cutting edge. I kinda use the shadows like cross-hairs. I use these to keep myself straight, or cut a fair curve, as the boat guys like to say.

If there is only one place left with the belts, I would buy two if i were you.

When i got my 5100, it was set up on the middle pulley of the 3 step speed reducer. I had to slow the motor down all the way to get even close to stitch by stitch sewing. I found that when the motor was this slow, it lost modulation and was more like a 3 speed. After i switched to the smallest pulley, i turned up the motor quite a bit, now my slow speed is slower than was possible on the other pulley, however my top speed is faster and it is a way smoother transition from slow to fast. In other words, my motor can go slow, but it likes it a little faster. The speed reducer allows this. Plus the torque as Art said.

One thing to consider is that straps cut from different areas of the hide stretch differently, so it would be best use the straps as they sat in the hide. Keep them lined up after cutting and make all the parallel straps for each direction of the weave from the same area, just cut them all to length and spread them out a bit. This will help keep stretching uniform and prevent one strap from stretching more than the rest. If you put a strap from the belly next to one from the back, the belly will sag alot more, and not be comfortable to sit on.