TinkerTailor

Could be to get some slicing action to the cut, like holding a wood plane at an angle to control chatter. It possibly was done to add a downward force onto the leather preventing it from lifting off the table at the cutting edge.

which one? I can check what mine are. I did a little checking and my techsew5100 has all the right juki speced mismatched threads everywhere i have looked so far.

Double cap rivets

Apparently Joseph English was affiliated with Huber in Philly before he moved to Newark NJ in 1837 I found this on page 318 of "Blade's Guide to Knives & Their Values" By Steve Shackleford via google. At this link i discovered that he made tools by himself until 1856 when he joined up with C.S.Osborne........ https://books.google.ca/books?id=Tc8wAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA227&dq=joseph+english+tools&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjDt82c6fjKAhUP0WMKHXxPCAIQ6AEINTAB#v=onepage&q=joseph%20english%20tools&f=false He started his tool company in Newark in 1826: https://books.google.ca/books?id=N0UWAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA601&dq=joseph+english+tools&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj8veip7PjKAhVN42MKHS66CRIQ6AEIOjAC#v=onepage&q=joseph%20english%20tools&f=false Here he is mentioned in an 1879 profile on Charles Osbourne, from this it sounds like osbourne may have bought the business and he retired. Makes sense if he had been making tools in Newark for 30 years and philadelphia before that, he would have been an old man. https://books.google.ca/books?id=jRA7AQAAMAAJ&pg=PA127&dq=joseph+english+tools&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjDt82c6fjKAhUP0WMKHXxPCAIQ6AEISTAF#v=onepage&q=joseph%20english%20tools&f=false Basically what i found is his company turned into osborne....

Probably not, this is a 5 year old thread.....

I have been itching to do the same, and have the same affliction. What has prevented me is I keep finding nice vintage scissors in thrift stores, which has served to 'feed the monster' for now. I got a mint never sharpened pair of Wiss inlaid 29's for 7 dollars a few months back. Couple days ago i found a pair of R. Heinisch 211-9" scissors made just up the road from Wiss in Newark, Nj. They are exactly the same pattern as the 29's. Old man Wiss worked at Heinisch before starting his company in the mid 1800's. Apparently they were quite friendly companies until Wiss bought R.Heinisch in 1914. This means mine are likely at least 100 years old and may be the model the 29 came from. Apparently, they may be collectible, I am doing more research on their history. Mine are in usable shape with a sharpen, and good steel, but not collection quality imho.

I was going to post this exact thing when i got home to a real keyboard instead of my phone. Beat me to it. It is also way faster than fiddling with chicago screws and much cheaper. To be honest i think double caps hammered flat hold way better than ones done with a setter to keep the dome.

I find it interesting that this conversation happened on the day your CEO "resigned"...........The first time i see a tandy employee agree with a negative sentiment about tandy, and it is the same day the boss quits....

What do you think the edges of Indiana's coat look like? Probably not pristine and shiny. Nothing wrong with a raw edge if it is done with artistic intent.

Try some of these guys: Some may have minimum orders. http://www.kingsnaps.net/index_down.php?sele=hstyle&hstyle=14 http://www.unicornstainless.com/products/ http://www.safelandindustrial.com/app/ http://www.hudson4supplies.com/metal-hardware/metal-hooks.html

Can you shorten the side flaps enough to fit the rivet machine in through the bottom corner holes?

edit>If holding the thread does not work... First thing i would do is pull out the bobbin and hook and clean it really good. Then feel for burrs. That thing sure looks like it was really dirty and someone just gave it a wipe. Sometimes these spot cleanings will free up gunk that then gets caught somewhere else and causes things like thread jams. Clean machines are generally happier.

It is because you are going to end up hammering on it at some time or another. Pounding stitch lines, or foldovers flat for instance.

The scissors track would probably annoy me. Tailors use scissors, leatherworkers use knives. The tables are similar, the best surface materials differs. Plywood will work, however knives tend to follow the grain and can run away from the cut line. Optimally, if I built the table, it would be covered with a solid piece of HDPE on top of plywood with steel sub structure. Make the top out of 3/4 plywood at least, preferably doubled, and glued together and then cover the whole thing with a giant sheet of 1/4-3/8 hdpe from a plastic supply place. When designing the ideal bench I like to imagine that my benches will get used as a giant dance platform at a nightclub, and must be strong enough to hold up a couple dozen drunk dancing people..... Incidentally, i actually have quite a bit of experience doing just that.... ..Btw, white poly cutting boards are HDPE. Size and height will relate to your height and preference. I like a cutting table to be just below my hip joint, and be just narrow enough that i can reach the center and cut on a line. It must be as long and as big as a side of leather. 10 feet will allow space for the leather and some space for tools, patterns, coffee cups, whatever.

Once you get it setup, the crying will stop when you see how tame your machine will be.

Grain side in is more likely to induce wrinkles.

When a twelve year old leatherworker reads this thread, How do you think that the parents are going to explain what "leather fetish gear" is? It is not like you have not been told to keep this kind of thing to the adult area..... Use your head. Ask people what measurements they use for rock climbing harnesses. Fall arrest harnesses. Suspenders. Whatever... Seriously man.....It is not that hard.

If you look close at where the saddle meets the barrel, there appears to be a bunch of grime there. Also, is the saddle copper? Those scratches could easily be from ham fisted cleaning. The wood is too well fitted to be an afterthought in my opinion.

'Tis a nice drawing for sure. If you are going to do it on a lathe manually, 2 things i can suggest: Grind an hss tool to the radius of the bottoms of the slot, and switch to it when close to final dimension. Its probably going to be necessary to cut the grooves with a parting tool, to get the depth and straight sides,as drawn, and switch to a shaped cutter for the bottom. Radius the outside corners on the slots too. If you tip the leather while burnishing the square edge makes a line on the front. It will also make it easier to insert the leather. If you are making more that a couple, look up how to make a diy tracer setup for a manual lathe. It will make things way faster. You will need a waterjet/laser/plasmacam/handfiled piece of metal with the final profile of the burnisher to do this. You basically have the profile attached to the lathe bed in some way or another with the profile facing the toolpost parallel to the work. I have seen them clamped to the side of the tailstock for eg. You will also need a second dummy follower tool attached to the compound bed. This tool follows the pattern as you run the wheels, while the other cuts. The cutting tool is fed in with the compound slide for each pass, and you just steer the dummy tool as close to the pattern as you can with the x and y. Follow the pattern, dial in a few thou more and follow it again. If you pattern it undersize, you can use a smaller width tool to get it started, and then switch to a wider form tool to widen the slots and add the radius for your finish cuts. If the width of the forming cutter is accounted for in relation to the distance you have narrowed the slots, it should turn out correct. Think of a key cutting machine.

Even the best, test..... Make a few test samples with the given thread and material, and choose one. Proper TPI and thread size is a range not a set in stone formula, so artistic interpretation is normal. Start with reason reasonable measurements for the project at hand for these values, and then do what looks good to you.

More machines are nice, however what I would love to have the space for is a 5x10 dedicated cutting and layout table. Just small enough that i can reach the center. Open to work on all sides. With shelves for hides laying flat underneath. And drawers at each end.

If I were to do it, I would make them wet formed to the actual skate out of veg tan. I would also not put a seam on the edge of the footplate on the sides because this spot hits the ground when you fall, it is right at the bottom outside corner of the skate. Stitching is not likely to last long here. Wet forming, you could do it with one center seam on the bottom. I have not been asked to make them, but I just might make some samples to bring into a roller derby shop near me......

Ismacs.com has information on most of the common singer industrial models here: http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/index.html My rule of thumb is, the less info that Ismacs has on a machine, the less common the machine. Less common machines, and specialized models are more likely to either have hard to find parts, or have been a lemon no-one wanted new. Your machine is not listed, and i only found pictures of 4 machines on google image. Does not bode well. If you do want to get this machine running for the hell of it, I did find a parts list online somewhere. You could use this to cross reference the missing parts for your machine and see if they were used in another more common machine. If they were used, bonus, they may be common and cheap.