TinkerTailor

I switched to natural because it hides dirt better. I hate white thread.

Above and beyond the machine part strength, Alot has to do with bobbin size. If you made a 441 arm 2" around you probably could only fit 3 feet of thread on the bobbin with 270......Fat thread needs big bobbins.

I searched for juki cylinder arm using google image search and looked for machines with the stitch length dial on the top right like the nakajima. Found 2 clones with 341 in their model numbers somewhere, plugged in juki 341 and voila.

I would also extend the stitch spacing for that thread size.

I did an image search and the Juki 341 looks really close.

If your steel axe is damaged by copper rivets, get a better axe. Good steel should slice that copper......On that note, I am adding a better axe to my shopping list. Always need a better one. However i do agree that the welted and stitched construction is a better option.

Coin purses. I sometimes wonder if i would make more money if i just cut sides of cromexcel into all coin purses rather than bags and the like. Profit margin is much higher but so is the repetition boredom. Also, part of learning this craft is pattern placement. By carefully placing the pattern pieces on the hide, you can both highlight the nice parts and put them on the visible parts of the project. Making a bag with a pocket on the outside? Use the part of the leather with a hole, and place the hole where the pocket is. Blemish hidden. Limiting waste/maximizing beauty with careful cutting is one of the best skills to have but hardest things to learn. The people who are good at this are highly prized in factories because someone who is bad can waste alot of leather in a hurry and ruin profits.

I found a 1918 brochure for a 52w100 that was a double needle post bed for sewing dirigible balloon skins. That market died right around the hindenburg but was huge and growing. Tire sewing died with vulcanization. One leap causes whole technologies and industries to disappear. It is hard for us now to comprehend just how big the tire sewing market was in 1922... sil10-26.pdf

Take a side of nice veg, put it on the ground, throw a bunch of neetsfoot/dye/pond water mix all over it with some sand and then drive over it with your pickup truck a bunch. Clean up and cut belts Raise prices and profit. It works for jeans, why not belts. People pay triple for pre worn out denim.

They list an "adjustable california wrapper attachment" part 259837 Does this mean it can be configured to make sushi? California rolls are yummy.

"After hours? After ours, we'll drink theirs...." G.Carlin

Little dots of CA (super) glue may work. I would use the gel type, the thin stuff can soak through, and disappears before you even get the parts together. Works way better on smooth surfaces. Would not use it for flesh to flesh.

Did you ever call Bob in the other thread in 2011? You have been searching for this manual for a while.... check this thread for some more info: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=50281 Aparently the 221 is the successor, here is its manual: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/924616/Adler-221.html from here: http://www.manualslib.com/brand/adler/

I am not an adler expert, but alot of long arm machines are stretched regular machines, and most of the regular machines manual will apply. If you figure out what adler machine was stretched, The manual may be more common. It should be out there on a pdf for free, you shouldn't need to pay. Here is a bunch of manuals: http://sew24.blogspot.ca/p/downloads.html Adlers part list: http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/220/220.pdf

I have not found much of anything, other than people who tan wild animal skins or furs. You could try Halfords in Edmonton, They have been dealing to the fur trapper/tanner and traditional aboriginal leathercraft market for decades. If they don't have it, they probably know who does. I have stopped in and got some nice deer from them in the past, however I have never mail ordered. I did notice some 3 oz buffalo in the deer catagory.

Posted this in the other thread, so i will repost here. The tandy one that looks like a wood plane is garbage. You need to modify it and shim it to get good results. The wood handled ones are better. The craftool pro groover is the one I would buy if I bought it from tandy. The grooving blade is on the end of the tool, not hanging off the side. I found the blade on the side of the cheaper ones a little weird feeling when most every tool has the bit centered with the handle. It was also harder to control depth. The Craftool pro can be used without the guide for off edge stitch lines, or "Inland highways" . Copies(or the exact same items) are available cheaper on ebay and a few other places online for all the groovers tandy sells. If you have a few more bucks to spend, The osborne 34 scratch compass with the groover tips is the way to go. It comes with 3 groove sizes and a point. It is usable as a divider and a pencil compass as well. You can also put a stitch line further away from the edge with it. It is a really versatile shop tool. I have a quarter with a small divot in the center i put on the top of the leather with a magnet underneath and can draw curves right on the hide..... You can put a pencil in it for pattern making and drawing. It is also great for woodwork/metalwork layout duty as well. Its not cheap but is worth it. I have an antique set of starrett 92 dividers from 1910 or so and they are built exactly the same as the 34, with a minor difference in the adjuster. This is a tool to last unlike a new craftool is. One place to get it: http://www.zackwhite.com/Osborne-Scratch-Compass_p_876.html

One place to get it: http://www.zackwhite.com/Osborne-Scratch-Compass_p_876.html

The tandy one that looks like a wood plane is garbage. You need to modify it and shim it to get good results. The wood handled ones are better. The craftool pro groover is the one I would buy if I bought it from tandy. The grooving blade is on the end of the tool, not hanging off the side. I found the blade on the side of the cheaper ones a little weird feeling when most every tool has the bit centered with the handle. It was also harder to control depth. The Craftool pro can be used without the guide for off edge stitch lines, or "Inland highways" . Copies(or the exact same items) are available cheaper on ebay and a few other places online for all the groovers tandy sells. If you have a few more bucks to spend, The osborne 34 scratch compass with the groover tips is the way to go. It comes with 3 groove sizes and a point. It is usable as a divider and a pencil compass as well. You can also put a stitch line further away from the edge with it. It is a really versatile shop tool. I have a quarter with a small divot in the center i put on the top of the leather with a magnet underneath and can draw curves right on the hide..... You can put a pencil in it for pattern making and drawing. It is also great for woodwork/metalwork layout duty as well. Its not cheap but is worth it. I have an antique set of starrett 92 dividers from 1910 or so and they are built exactly the same as the 34, with a minor difference in the adjuster. This is a tool to last unlike a new craftool is.

Did you know gullible is not a real word?

Electricity does funny things. Any time an electrical device causes issues with another device, it is cause for alarm and some investigation. Properly designed and loaded electrical systems, both in the machine and in the premises should not do what you are describing.

That does not sound like things are good. I recommend not even plugging it in until you or an electrical savvy person ensures it is electrically safe. With a multi meter. Look for ground faults. The motor may have issues causing excess power draw due to high impedance. This can be tested at an alternator/electric motor rebuilding shop. If it is ok, check how many other devices are sharing the same circuit in the house/shop. Find one that is unused, 1/2hp and 5 amp draw is a pretty big load to share with even a couple incandescents. Sewing on it if it has a short or is overloading a circuit may kill you or burn down the house. Brown-outs are no joke.

They make mini-ratchets for hex shank bits like this: http://www.amazon.com/ABC-Products-Screwdriver-Wrench-Phillips/dp/B00SIIDQMA Dont know if this will help. I have ground a slot tip on an allan key for stuff like this before.

I found mine in a pawn shop. Unmarked but I saw the wood handles and had to bite. Discovered the tip difference when i got home. To be honest i do not know much about the gun market, or the dealers of tools because I live in Canada where we have restricted firearm ownership, no auto weapon or handguns allowed and much lower gun crime than any of our neighbours....I make holsters for bicycle locks and beer.... Here is a set from brownells, they look to be a respected player: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/screwdrivers-sets/fixed-blade-sets/gunsmith-screwdrivers-prod6634.aspx I bet this could be useful for thread tension duty, it measures pull from 1 oz to 5 lbs in 1/10 oz increments: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/measuring-tools/trigger-pull-gauges-weights/electronic-trigger-pull-gauge-prod7956.aspx Gun guys have alot of good tools. Files, reamers, punches, you name it.

Perfect. Granite counter scraps are the cheapest way to go here. 3/4" is about as light as I would go, and I wouldn't go smashing things with a 5lb hammer, however for stamping and other bench duty it will be great. If you have 2 pieces, you can laminate them with epoxy, and make 1-1/2". Try to use an epoxy that spreads so there are no voids. Glue it up on the floor with baking parchment paper underneath to prevent glueng it to the floor, it will squeeze out. ......Then place as many of the heaviest things you can find on top while the glue sets. If you can set up a wood form or something to hold the layers square with each other that is good too, the top and bottom layers love to squirm around under clamping pressure. Btw, Epoxy is stinky, and can be for a day or three, or forever if you do not mix it properly. Most consumer epoxies are designed to be used at room temp, so do it in a ventilated heated place, away from living space or wait till summer and do it outside.

http://www.shoesystemsplus.com/Landis-5-in1-Round-Cutting-Blade_p_447.html http://landisusa.com/us-en/cutting-blade.html Info: http://landisusa.com/us-en/lanotattachments/download/file/id/123/store/6/plastic_and_leather_cutters_4.pdf