smirak

Someone much smarter than me will come along and answer. However, I think that's just a regular basketweave stamp going in an arrowhead pattern. Google it...I think it's Chief that has a youtube video of it. Kevin

You may have read my post about my recent Frye Boot experience. Now, the wife is dying to have a bag. I don't want to make one out of vegtan, so I'm thinking a pc of dyed chrome tanned/oil tanned leather will do. The purses at Frye had a waxy, supple feel to them, almost like a pc of thin harness leather. Not that you know 100%, but is that just a feature/product of the leather they are using? Want to get a nice pc of leather with a nice pullup to make this out of, but don't want to break the bank either. She picked up a pc of leather at Tandy a couple weeks ago that was oil tanned and had a nice pullup, but the worker there told her to be careful because the leather rubbing against a white shirt (for example) could rub off and color her shirt the same color. So, she got scared and we took that back. Now, she wants a new purse. Looking for advice on a good pc of leather to make a hobo style bag out of that will present that type of feel as well as have a nice pullup. I'm "leather new", so my knowledge isn't there yet... Thanks, Kevin

I do like the look of their bags. From what I've seen of yours, compared to theirs, yours look really good. I think they're two different styles of bags, but both look good and I know my wife would proudly walk around with either! Kevin

Monica...you'll certainly be pleased to know that Atlanta is opening a store (I believe on Ponce somewhere) in the summer of 2015. Their corp headquarters is in the Empire State Bldg with an US facility in Arkansas and another manufacturing facility in Mexico somewhere. The chukkas I have on my feet right now feel like they were made for my feet with just about 4 hours of wear so far...very satisfied with my first purchase from them.

So, I'm tooling around Boston yesterday with the family on a much needed break from work (I live about 2.5 hrs from Boston). Wife has a couple pair of Frye boots that she's had for some time, and a pair of 60s vintage boots that have worn wonderfully. Anyway, I had no desire to go to the store previous to my short time that I've invested in leatherworking. However, after I started working with leather, I wanted to go into the store. I walked around and took pics of a ton of bags and wallets for purposes of recreating examples of bags that my wife likes that I'm too cheap to spend upwards of $500 on. I thought that by doing so, I might have been "invading their privacy" a bit. The girl that was helping my wife spend my money found out I worked with leather and instead of saying something to the effect of "you can't do that", she said "here, let me show you some bags and how we put them together." Granted, she's just a retail clerk, but she was super helpful. When we got through looking at some bags, she said "if you like leatherwork, let me show you these shoes." She brought out a pair of cordovan for me to slip on my feet. They went on like butter and were extremely comfortable and nice looking. They were $798. I didn't buy them. However, the wife did walk out with 3 new pairs of boots and I bought a pair of boots and a pair of chukkas for work. There are only 4 flagship stores in the US, but 4 more are opening soon. I am in no way affiliated with them, but figure I would pass along my recent experience with them for anyone that may have had a question or just curious. Also, they are military friendly and offer a 20% discount on pretty much everything for military and veterans.

What's the leather for that bag? Wife likes it and wants me to do something similar. Kevin

Thanks Petewon. That's what I thought. I know one of my issues last time was I didn't take my time to make sure I did a good job. I really just threw it together as a mockup for a wallet I was making for my (possible) future son in law for his birthday.

First off, that's a nice looking wallet. I really like the looks of it. Quick question - not necessarily related to this exact wallet, but the design. On the "inner pockets", there is a tab. Do you run the "outer pocket" up to that tab, or do you overlap it just a bit? I just made one last week that was similar in design, and ran it up to the tab, but no overlap. I really didn't like the way it came out. If you do overlap, do you skive the back of either pocket? Thanks! Kevin

It didn't come from me either. I did have (what I thought to be) a pc of HO that I considered bad quality. I didn't contact SLC because it wasn't to be used for anything other than mock-up/practice pcs. However, it did make me think twice about buying leather from them again. That said, I am not a one and done kind of guy. For Rusty/Kevin to come on here and clear the air means that they do take customer service seriously.

I really like the 2nd pic. Is that a pattern you made or one that is available to me?

I won't begin to guess the name, but let's just say I got a pc of HO from a well known vendor that was equally as bad. I was even warned by another member here to not trust leather from this company...oh well, never again.

Well, I'm sure we would if there was something to look at?

Hey Rob...fancy seeing you here. Not sure I've seen a post from you on here yet! Completely off topic folks, in case you need to, Rob (eaglestroker) is from MS. I'm from MS. We are both members on a MS gun forum as well. Rob and I have talked via PM many times over the last month or so about my newness in leather working, and he is a great guy. I asked a couple questions once, and instead of him just answering them for me, he actually made a video of his processes and sent it to me. Also, he gave me his cell number and told me to call/message any time. Stand up guy this Rob is in case you wanted to know. On topic, I read somewhere (or most likely made it up) that the curve was to help the bite (like Rob said). But, my simple mind never believed it. Sure, the "points" of the curve may help the bite, but is seemed to me that the "inner" portion would just "float around"?

I have absolutely no knowledge of it, but it looks really awesome. Will hold a box of shells to boot...not just "some" shells.

Chief...you don't have a banjo strap pattern do you? I never bought a strap for my banjo, and now that I'm doing leatherwork, I figure I'll just make one for my banjo...

I just started leatherworking, so take my "advice" with a grain of salt. I saw everyone on hear talking about tiger thread and figured I'd give that a shot. Got it at Rocky Mountain Leather (google search). It's a braided polyester, waxed thread that comes in 0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2 and 1.6 mm sizes (maybe more/less, but I think that's right). It comes in a variety of colors and I like it a lot.

I'm not sure what the "proper" way is, as you'll most likely get multiple answers from more experienced holster makers than me (I've made exactly 1 holster). That said, the holster I just completed on Sunday was a trial run to just get the pattern down, wetmolding, hand stitching, edge finishing/burnishing, etc...I didn't dye it. After it was "completed", I rubbed it down with neatsfoot oil. Let it dry and picked it up out of my dresser drawer yesterday and it is rock solid. The molding is holding it's shape and the curve of the holster for wear isn't moving. Not sure if the neatsfoot oil had anything at all to do with that, but I don't think it hurt it either is what I'm trying to say.

I just completed the pattern for the G23...turned out real nice...my first...

Not trying to hijack...did you used to have a free pattern for the avenger style on your site linked above? Looking back for an avenger style for my XDs 3.3". Hijack over.

Awesome brother...appreciate it! That said, keep checking Springfield...they have English point and round in both 1 1/4 and 1 1/2, but they aren't on the website all the time. I'm actually about to order their 10, 20, and 30 mm round chisels...less than $15 for the "set" isn't too bad. I do like my stitching chisels, but do wish they'd offer them in a tighter spi. I've got some of the "nice" 8 and 9 spi irons from Tandy, and they are nice, but no 2 prong which is somewhat inconvenient, but nothing you can't work around I guess. Kevin

Thanks for the reply Cheryl. I bought the stitching chisels from SLC that are from that same "line". I will have to look into their other chisels. I need some hardware from SLC anyway...might be able to sneak a few of those in BTW, I was over in your neck of the woods a couple weeks ago. I live over in Lebanon, NH. I bought a new truck from Garvey Nissan in Rutland. Kevin I'm always desperate to spend money! I've spent nearly $1500 so far just since June...all in all, a great hobby that is really helping me with my PTSD management though, so as far as I'm concerned, it's money well spent and the wife isn't arguing 'cause I'm not moody/angry as much anymore!

Thanks Zulu...that's what I do currently, but just not any good at it. I need to find a better method to cutting curves/corners with my Stanley knife. I've got straight cuts down pat, but the curves/corners not so much. As for tidying up with sandpaper, what grit do you recommend? I've tried 320/330, but it's too smooth and doesn't take much meat off. Then, my next was 80 and it's too much...so, somewhere in between...thinking 120 to start with and 320 to finish? This is just a temp solution as I'm going to get a drill press and sanding drums soon, so the speed will help out on that...this is all by hand so far. Kevin

Thanks for all the replies so far...Along with the order I put in at Springfield, I went to my "local (1.5 hrs away)" Tandy and got much more stuff...this is a damn expensive hobby! @snubby - I have tan-kote, gum trag, carnauba cream, neatsfoot oil, saddle soap, beeswax, paraffin wax and various other stuff @orphan - I built a stitching pony last week. Crude as all I have is a skilsaw, but it functions as it should and is extra handy to have as a "third hand". I use weldwood contact cement from HD. So far, it works with no issues. @Zulu - I bought a huge 50 ct pack of Dewalt blades from my local HD. I've got a fine/coarse stone from HD that I bought, though I am using 1000 grit wet/dry paper for now. I'll "sharpen" my blades/cutting tools on it and then use the rouge on a strop I bought from Rocky mountain to polish. As for my edgers, I just cut a small strip o 3/4 oz scrap leather and glued that to a paint stick. I put my 1000 grit on top of that and pull my edgers back about 10 times, and then remove the 1000 grit paper and strop to polish. The only thing that I wish I had right now was a corner punch to round corners and some round punches as well as strap end punches. Those will most likely have to be an August purchase. I think I've spent my July money so far...in about $1500 including leather now...

I made my wife a cuff out of a pic of scrap leather...no idea the thickness as I didn't measure. The flesh side was nice and smooth. She has no complaints yet. That said, I used some tan kote on a couple moleskine covers to help "lay" the fibers from the flesh side down. Kevin

The problem is they aren't too long, but one end is too short. Actually, looking at it, the jaws would have been fine, but they "slipped down" when I glued and nailed them...therefore the gap... This was a prototype though to see how I liked it and if I wanted a nice one made from maple or poplar or the like...need a reason to buy a miter saw anyway!