LumpenDoodle2

Thanks for the reply, I've got to make new handles for both bags too. I had wondered about haunting the model shops for the pins, but never thought of metal rivets. Well done eith the repair. Did you have to redo the much of the bag itself? One of my bags just need a bit restitching, and a patch where the leather has been punctured. The other one is quite sad, but I thought I'd try glueing a second leather 'skin' on the inside. My idea is to preserve the original leather, but also make it useable, but if it deasn't work, I'll use the leather as a pattern, and make it from sctratch. I've already touched up the leather with dye, and a good coat of Aussie conditioner. Have you hit any other snags, other than the tags. Believe it or not, this is the better condition bag.

I got hold of a couple of old leather bags in need of repair, and will have to remove the closing mechanism to sort out the stitching, and fit new lining. I managed to grind out the little pins holding everything together on one of them ok, but was wondering about what's best for refixing. The pins are little brass domed chaps, which have been peened down just like a copper rivet. I wondered if anyone knew of a source for these, or will any olld brass pin, once cut down, do the job.

If you can't get your hands on a riveting hammer thingy, then I have a cunning plan. In the same position, I raked about the hubby's shed, and came across a thick cold chisel thing. A good thump, and it flattens the rivet enough to then finish off, by turning the chisel upside down, and flatten the rivet completely. Same principle, but cost me nothing. It worked well enough to have the cold chisel upgraded to my toolbox.

Never tried it, but can't see any problem with the idea. Certainly, a rubber stamp, and archival ink would be cheaper and easier than a 3D stamp. Also, to be honest, there have been occasions where I haven't really had any space on a project to fit a 3D stamp.

What? But I do my best stabbing, er, no, I mean stitching after my second bottle......hic!........... (I'm in churge here!!! I have opposable thumbs!!) Sadly, I have discovered that I am quite capable of stabbing myself while stone cold sober And regularly do.

Neatsfoot oil will soften the leather, but then soft leather will lose definition, and shape by flexing. This will defeat the purpose of wet moulding a pancake holster. No doubt, in the not too distant future, the customer will complain about the look, and 'grip' of the gun in the holster. Tell him you've researched it, and the idea isn't practical, even if he is happy for you to still go ahead, just say no. Some things are just not worth the hassle. (Unless someone wiser comes along)

What a wonderful excuse to drink some wine. "But dear, I HAVE to drink these 6 bottles of wine. I need the corks for my worktable, honest".

This sounds an interesting idea, so count me in for 1, maybe 2 spools. I did have a very old 4/5ths used spool I was given, and I quite liked it, but it was white (well, very grubby white after many years in someone's garage).

That table looks ideal for a sander, burnisher, and drill station. All the electricals lined up, with the accessories in the drawers, and a dust extractor fitted into the hood.

No idea where to get that specific one, but could you adapt a bookbinders letter holder? I have one I adapted for my little hot foil machine. I used it to stamp my details on leather key fobs, as a bit of advertising, so it should, with a bit of fettlin' fit an arbor press.

IMHO, those Adlers were definately saveable, or at least worth spending a bit time trying a bit resuscitation on them. But there again, I'm a sucker for waifs and strays.

Funny enough, I've just had a large bottle of dye delivered today. Unfortunately, it wasn't boxed, but just bubble wrapped, and the top was broken off due to being dropped somewhere between the supplier, and my humble abode. Interesting mess.

We are having a bit of a price hike just now on fleabay UK, and it's exactly as you describe. A collection of worn out tools worth msybe, £30 if you're lucky, advertised for £300. As you say, that's not rust, it's patina.

Sometimes it works in our favour (not often, but......). I got a lovey edging tool for just over £2, because it had been lumped together with an old, worn to the nub chisel as a wood tool.

Bob, since you are in the UK, can I suggest you save your money, and get a couple of samples of Tiger thread off Ian Atkinson (on etsy). He sells short lengths at a decent price, and you'll love it. There is a Chinese comparable thread available, which I also use, but go for the good stuff first, and work it out from there.

Never seen one of those before. It would be nice to have sitting on display somewhere. Or as a pizza cutter.

Me, I would have gone for black, with gold lettering, or that amazing blue. But the colour you've used is fairly nifty too. I love to see old machines rising out of the 'soon be heading for the scrap' pile. Meant to add, there is someone out there ressurecting Singer domestics, and painting them seriously interesting colours (including polka dots).

Is this the Fiebings professional dye you were looking at. I only use the professional range, so can't comment on any other type, but I have never had problems of leather drying out. In fact, I love it, even though I have to run a expelair to get rid of the fumes.

Ahh.... I had the image of the machine mounted directly onto the post, possibly with a flat bar fitted a bit lower to mount the motor onto. But fitting a cut down table makes more sense. Especially if you need to cant the machine over to access the innards.

I do like that single pedestal stand. I'm interested in how the motor will be mounted. Oh, and I've added a picture of my finished table (I even hoovered special).

The only problem I've had (if you can call it a problem), is if I'm winding a bobbin, and give it wellie, the stand will shake. There again, at top speed, the original table shoogled a bit too. I can live with that, as it has gained me enough room in my minuscule workshop for a good sized storage unit (courtesy of Heart of House Tollerton kitchen trolly, with little baskets underneath for my webbing).

Been busy making a table today, as I managed to get a big slab of granite for a new stamping surface. I've also added a very poor picture of my Juki cylinder arm table made from a fold up workbench. No doubt some will think the pedals are in a weird position, but being a shortstop, they feel really good to use. sorry about mess, just finished building stuff and not had time to clean up yet.

It does sometimes seem to make a difference. I have 2 reels of thread, bought at the same time, both are marked the same, but one of them always needs a bit fiddling with the tension to get it right, The only obvious difference are the colours.

The first holster I made was for the Colt .45, and I faithfully copied the pattern out of the Al Stohman book. Great patterns, but the ones I've used have all needed about 6-7mm added to the width, or they are just too tight to get a gun into.