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LumpenDoodle2

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Everything posted by LumpenDoodle2

  1. LumpenDoodle2
    A broken beer bottle? Wouldn't it be easier to just look for the zip?
  2. LumpenDoodle2
    I've seen those glue pots, and wondered how good/bad they were. Tempted to buy one, but never got round to it yet.
  3. LumpenDoodle2
    It's difficult to resist these old tools. I did do a google for the different fittings, but didn't have much luck, but will still keep looking.
  4. LumpenDoodle2

    I would imagine goodie2shoes will happily take you up on the awl, but if not......

    But if someone in more need comes along, give them first dibs.    I've been trying to find the right awl for me, but it's one of those things I just have not found the one for me yet.

    Maureen

    1. zuludog

      zuludog

      OK, thanks for the reply, you're the first

      I'll give it a couple of more days to see if goody2shoes wants it, but if not it's yours. If she does, I'll let you know

      Regards zuludog, aka Geoff

      But you need to know that it's the traditional type where you must mount the blade then prepare & sharpen it yourself. Most leathercraft books will show you how, or look on YouTube

    2. LumpenDoodle2

      LumpenDoodle2

      Hi, yes, although I've been a bit spoiled by the sharpness from out the packet of the Japanese awls.  

      I must admit, I think you learn more by having to sharpen, and fix the handle yourself.    I bought a really rough round knife off a nice man on ebay, and I sharpened, and polished it myself.   

      Buying the Al Stohlman book on sharpening tools made all the difference, though.

      Maureen

      Sorry, missed out an important word.

      Thanks.

    3. zuludog

      zuludog

      You will see from the forum that goody2shoes doesn't want the awl blade. give me your postal address and I'll send it to you

      I don't log on to leatherworker very often, so would you please use my email

       

      geoffboyling@hotmail.co.uk

       

      Thanks Geoff

  5. LumpenDoodle2
    Ok, I said I'd never do it again, but I did. Tandy UK were doing a deal on thick veg tan shoulders, and I decided "Oh, why not". It was nice enough, but fell off to a really soft, almost delaminated state up to about 6" from the edge in places. I'd advise contacting other leather dealers, and check the prices. Unless you can go to the Tandy shop personally to do the choosing.
  6. LumpenDoodle2
    Does holding the top and bottom threads for the first couple of stitches make a difference for you.
  7. LumpenDoodle2
    I recognise it, but only because I have one too. No idea the make, and I don't really have a use for it. Just liked it.
  8. LumpenDoodle2
    I was just about to ask if there was any reason why the grinder I use (burnisher one side, sanding drum on the other) could not be mountet vertically. As I'm always looking for ways to save a bit space, when I had a lightbulb moment. A couple of years ago, I picked up 2 workshop buffing wheel motor things. Lovely old ones, sort of like the one below. I imagine the speed should be perfect, and it can be mounted through one of my tables. Mmmm..... just need a free couple of hours.....
  9. LumpenDoodle2
    Enjoying following this thread. Great to see people working out ways round the problems of older or more specialised machines.
  10. LumpenDoodle2
    Very nice selection of tools there, and I love the box. I do have a soft spot for old wooden boxes.
  11. LumpenDoodle2
    You asked if the padding should be glued or free floating. Personally, I'd glue the padding to at least one of the leather pieces. I've owned a case where, over many years, the thin foam crept, and moved out of place. Obviously, the more dense foam would have less chance of that happening.
  12. LumpenDoodle2
    That shape would be a very handy addition for me. Are there any problems regarding grinding down the feet. I've filed flat the bottom of presser feet, but wondered if there are things I should be avoiding if I tackle making a set of in line feet myself.
  13. LumpenDoodle2
    Have downloaded these as well, many thanks. Such things are always useful to have. As to g codes, and cad drawing... It's a new world I'm just starting to work my way around, but what fun I'm having learning it all.
  14. LumpenDoodle2
    Now, that is the best way to do things. I have the advantage that my husband is not allowed to buy on the interweb. The whole paying on line thing is just way beyond him, and being a typical man, he doesn't really do the 'checking out prices first' thing. Too much distraction by 'shiny objects' to realise he's being fleeced. So, if he wants a new toy for his hut, I check it out, and get the best deal on it. This means that I know exactly how much is being spent, and don't feel guilty about spending on the really neccessary stuff. I still get the "what have you bought now" when the postie's been, but I've still got a lot of leeway to make up for the planer/thicknesser 'thing' he really, really needed to buy a couple of weeks ago.
  15. LumpenDoodle2
    There are lots of good articles out there about what paper to use. A nice heavy paper looks good, but biggest thing to watch for is the direction of the paper grain. The grain should run pararel with the book spine, or else it can do funny things to how the book 'lies'. The blog below goes into the paper side extremely well. http://myhandboundbooks.blogspot.co.uk/2007/09/paper-grain.html
  16. LumpenDoodle2
    I love my ipad, my world is on it, including 100's of plays, audiobooks, kindle, leather patterns, whatever (and most of Mr Pratchet's books). I can't remember specifically downloading any particular software, but my acer laptop, which runs on windows 10 I think, apparently uses foxit. Although, the biggest bugbear for me, is the 'will it, won't it' moment microsoft gives you when you are trying to open a 10 year old job estimate written in ancient Microsoft. I shall check out libre office.
  17. LumpenDoodle2
    If it's any help, these docs open fine on ipads.
  18. LumpenDoodle2
    I've used silicone in a little squirty bottle on thread before. I had a thread that just seemed be all problems, so I just gave the cone a spray over with the silicone, and let it sit for a while. Of course, it does mean you have to re-apply the spray as you work your way through the cone. The thread did appear to behave a bit better afterwards, although I was sewing a fabric not leather with it.
  19. LumpenDoodle2
    Just to say, if it's an Uwe owned machine, it will be in tiptop condition.
  20. LumpenDoodle2
    In fact, I remember making a 'Dougle' out of 4 corks, a washing up liquid bottle, and some wool. They were the days........
  21. LumpenDoodle2
    Valerie Singleton every time, with Tom Baker (then David Tennant, Matt Smith, and Peter Capaldi in second joint second place).
  22. LumpenDoodle2
    I blame Blue Peter myself.........
  23. LumpenDoodle2
    Hardest part of fitting a servo motor, is supporting the old clutch moter as you undo the bolts. They are heavy beggers, so either get someone to take the weight, or use a car scissor or bottle jack. What I have done in the past, is pop a bit wood on top of the jack, between it and the motor. You will probibly have to set the jack on a couple of bricks/wooden block/stool, to get the height. Undo the bolts, while supporting motor on the jack to keep it stable. Gently wind down jack with motor on it, then get passing strong person to remove it for you, or do it yourself. Fitting the servo motor is easy. Bolt on servo motor, screw on servo control box, fit belt, adjust tension, and off you go. Lots of youtube vids on it, if you need them. I agree about the pulley, get the smallest you can. In the meantime, to control your clutch motor a bit better, pop a tennis ball under the pedal, or use a bungee cord. The idea is to give a bit resistance to the pedal when you press it, and reduce the on/off feeling clutch motors can have.
  24. LumpenDoodle2
    Coversations with customers are usually along the lines of "one of those Clint Eastwood holsters", otherwise, no idea. They do look good with the lining on them. Same with the single fixed (riveted) loop holsters, or "one of those 'Duke' holsters". Both of which come under the heading (IMHO) of Hollywood holsters, and both cope with linings way more successfully, at least for me.
  25. LumpenDoodle2
    Clever idea, and obviously saves a lot of time for you. I would also love more info on the construction.
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