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DrmCa

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Posts posted by DrmCa


  1. Are you sure that you want to buy a cat in a sack on the condition that it costs about as much as the cost of shipping?

    I'd rather visit my local industrial sewing machine shop and get one that certainly works, with a warranty, and with the assurance that parts are available for it.

    On Aliexpress, items suddenly become "no longer available"  all the time, and good luck to you tracking down the seller. They get 2-3 negative feedback, close down the shop and open another one, under a different name. Been there, done that, not doing again.


  2. I have some experience with Bonis Never Stop. What do you want to know?

    Other than for the extremely hard to see needles, it works wonders on furs. Since I've bought it a few years back, I stitched everything from sheepskin to light gloves on it.

    If you are getting into furs, you may want to look into adding a compressed air blower that keeps hair under the material being sewn. I do not have it, and I have to stop and use my fingers, to hide the hair, to keep it out of the seam. Since I do not sew much furs, it is an acceptable waste of time. For production, the blower is a huge aid.


  3. Wizcraft's reply explains almost everything but I just want to add that you do not reverse while binding. This is why they may have removed the reverse.

    Multiple manuals exist for this machine. I got mine off this forum. If you cannot find them by searching on this site, reply and I'll see if I can upload.

    Your motor is a servo motor. If you are willing to spend some $$ you can get an inverter that converts single-phase into 3-phase. Every structure in North America has 220V coming in, but it is single-phase. 110V is only transformed from 220V. So you need a 220V 1-phase to 220V 3-phase inverter.

    If its cost is too much for your budget, drop the whole Efka rig and buy a Family 550Wt servo motor.


  4. I am in need of a metric needle plate for my Mitsubishi DB and Juki DDL.

    College Sewing has them, but they ship with DHL which would cost a whooping 35 pounds.

    Within the UK, it only costs 4.50. According to Royal Mail's web site, it would be between 5.70 and 8 more, from the UK to Canada.

    Would any of you, in the UK, agree to forward the plate to me in Canada?


  5. I absolutely love your jacket. Amazing job, especially for the 1st one!

    It seems that this is happening: your parts follow the tracing of the original, stretched parts. Next time you might want to holistically look at the pattern that you got by copying, and to straighten some lines. Also, this plain zipper puller does not do justice to the wonderful jacket itself. You may find fancier pullers online. None of this "critique" should distract from the exceptional work that you've done. I want this to come as encouragement. Hope you understand.


  6. My Huji 43-6 patcher has arrived yesterday as well. It can stitch well, right out of the box. I built a portable desktop mount for it, out of a sofa foot and a hardwood flooring board. Looks ugly but functions well.

    Then I went to motorize it, thinking that a domestic motor would work, but bummer! I need a CW motor whereas domestic motors are CCW.

    My next question is: are HAx1 needles available in LR point at all? If they are not, then how can I adjust the needle bar for 135*16?

     

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    PICT4735.JPG


  7. Any oil is fine while it lasts. A thicker oil will stay longer. Since the motor only runs at about 3500 RPM, you can use the same engine oil as in your car. If you are not running a 24/7 factory, it practically does not matter which oil you use. I keep leftover oil from engine oil changes and transmission fluid changes and use it in my motors that have similar lubricating wells (for example, I have a bench grinder that uses the same sort of lubrication).

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