OLDNSLOW

if you did 50 for 50$ what is the shipping cost to the 48

is the 1.5 stuff long enough for belt work and do you still have it and if so how much for just that? Thanks. O n S

wow nice stuff, I am just up the road a bit in Clarksville and waiting for my sewing machine to come in, would like to be able to see all what you have put together and maybe pick your brain. Again nice stuff O n S

looks good to me but I am a newby myself, is that your pattern looks nice and the stitching looks nice.

I know what a pipe cleaner is as back in the day 40 years ago we passed a few pipes around, but a pipe hanger? O n S

Thanks for all the info.

cant remember what thread it was in and interested in trying the process, I am going through a steep learning process so all the help I can get helps a great deal. I am going to make a few things with a cheap cut of leather (belly) then want to groon the leather then from what I read was a 50/50 mix of oil and wax by weight, who here recalls, or uses that method as the final step, and is the mix 50/50 I did put some together today to see how it would mix up and the was seemed to be very thick. I hope the original writer as well as other can chime in on the use of the mix, the original poster noted that it created a water proof finish, but is it needed as I understand that the groon will create a water proof and scratch proof finish all its own. And if that is the case what then is the best way to finish an item done in groon? Thanks all to those that will chime and remember that the reason people like myself come here to learn from others as we limp along in the learning process!. O n S

Thanks for sharing

no it is late but any left? Thanks

want to add a few more thoughts to this thread, vacuum forming is not a new concept, just new to forming kydex and leather or so it seems. But for the kydex and leather guys that are jumping on the bandwagon it is somewhat new, and what the are using in their quest for perfection is the use of robin air type vacuum pumps. Well most if not all vacuum pumps work on the same concept, to remove air and moisture from around the item being formed. In the true use of the pumps in the A/C world they way the work is to draw out all the air and moisture in a closed loop system, what the pump does is boil of the moisture till there is none less along with any ambient air, as the air and moisture cannot exist in a closed loop system with refrigerant and cannot be condensed, so the longer you leave the holster in a vacuum press the more moisture it is going to remove along with increase the pressure on the holster. So the longer you leave it in the vacuum the drier the holster will be when it comes out and the more detail that it should impart on the holster. I learned this from working with a A/C systems many years ago. I once left a vehicle on a vacuum pump overnight to ensure that all the moisture was boiled out of the system before recharging, well it was difficult to then get it to take the charge with refrigerant, but from what I have notice is that everyone is being to quick to remove the holster from the vacuum chamber be it a bag system or a table that are being built at home or bought from many people that are now building them. I am in the process of building my own as well, however having been in the right place at the right time I scored a vacuum pump and a very high vacuum rating, the higher the cfm of the pump the more vacuum it will pull in a shorter period of time, creating more pressure on the item in the vacuum chamber. The pump I scored has a rating of 14 cfm, the person I bought it from had bought it from an estate sale and wasn't sure of what they had, although I will need to do some work on the pump it wont take much to have it working like I want. Other pumps like it are selling for any where from 1400, to over 2000. so it isn't so much the bag or the table that you decide to work with it comes down to the pump, and the longer you leave it in vacuum the better the definition will be and the drier the leather will be when you remove it from the chamber. If anyone has any questions please contact me I am willing to share the info about vacuum forming from a mechanical point of view. Thanks

I am in the process of making my second batch before it gets to cold out to let the sun warm it, Adams leather works I think it is called has a good explanation on his website, but, I bought a gallon of regular vinegar at the store along with a box of brillow pads, washed all the soap out of the pads then shredded it all up and dropped in to the gallon jug. the 1st batch set out side for 2 weeks, I would go out everyday and shake it up and stir it with a metal rod I have. I also dropped in a few rusty bolts that were laying around, once all of the steel wool has been desolved and the vinegar takes on a dark color ad the odor has diminished it is close o being done. If after a few weeks the steel wool is gone and the vinegar has not changed color much and there is going to be a need to add more metal, it can be rusty nuts, bolts, nails, or you can go buy brillow pads. Once it takes on a dark color almost tea like and even darker your close to being done, you will need to filter out all the metal residue to remove any left over particles, I filtered mine 3 times. If the odor is still faint let it air out for a week or so, you can do that by leaving it in the jug with the cap off, it still might have a faint odor to it, but from what I and you have read here neutralizing it will help with the odor, and like one other person commented I put a little scented oil on it and it covered up the odor. One other thin I left out but did not do myself that was mentioned on Adams leather website was to warm the vinegar on the stove 1st, not sure if it makes a difference as I did not do it on the 1st or second batch. Now for the second batch it is taking longer than the 1st and not sure why other than it has not been as hot out as it was during the 1st batch. Hope this helps and good luck in your efforts, and as note I have died one item and it came out great, I am still learning and have a long way to go, if I left anything out I am sure others will add more.

Thank You for the info, I was going to go with a servo motor when it arrives here in TN and all put back together, a friend picked it up for me in Santa Barbra CA, and is disassembling it for me to save on shipping cost, and also palletizing it. I have already reached out for a shipping quote to go from terminal to terminal, Montebello, CA to Nashville, for 185.00. I was able to get a break on the price after speaking with the rep, I was in the industry for 35 years so they cut me a discount. The machine was a gift so my cost in it will be about 300.00, not to bad for a pristine machine. Again thanks for all the info, people come here to learn that is why I am here.

no everything was bought together table and all the fixings that go along with it, sorry to disappoint you with the answer, and for not wording it correctly, does that clear things up for you now. If not it has the table, arms, levers, and what ever else it would normally come with!! I don't want to have the motor and clutch shipped if not needed, is that clear? Thanks for the input. Now you can rock your self to sleep listening to some hank Williams or something, dont forget your warm milk to make you feel all nice inside before beddy by !

I am having a consew shipped to me and to try and save money along with wanting to upgrade once I get it, I am not having the motor shipped to me as it is coming from Cali to Tennessee, but here is the question. Does the CLUTCH need to be shipped as well I called Toledo, but forgot to ask about the clutch, so if someone would be so kind to inform my dumb arse of this needed info I would be grateful. Thanks O n S

and aren't those a plus?

I knew that it has to be different batches in order for it to work just not sure if it would kill the roon and metal odor. Thanks for all the info.

thanks Cheryl for the info that helps

I have done most of that, I have dipped then rinsed real quick in water, but not with baking soda, and others are telling me they can still smell the vinegar but it has a metalic odor to it. Will adding the baking soda remove the odor

If no one minds another question? I let a batch cook out in the sun for the last 2 weeks, strained it twice to make sure to remove all of the metal, however the roon has a very faint smell of vinegar, but does smell, metallic in nature and this is my first batch of roon and have obviously never used it. I have read I think everything I can find on it but might have missed something, the roon itself right now is like a very dark tea, and I mean very dark. I am currently letting it off gas the last little bit of vinegar odor, but is this what is to be expected? Will the baking soda also kill the odor, thanks for letting me but in and ask a question. O n S

Thanks for the info

what type was it? was it a rare earth or a regular? and if you don't mind where did you buy it at. Thanks O n S

Has anyone here tried this instead of the snap, I thought I have seen one holster maker that has used this method with some success, what say all of you? Thanks O n S

well the larger size leather curled up and got stiffer than the dickens, so is that to mean that is veg tanned. thanks O n S

this is what it looked like after a few minutes in boiling water, along with what it looks like.

I'll do that and report back thanks for the info. O n S