OLDNSLOW

Well after removing the new hook I did find that it was the wrong part, however after speaking with cowboy Bob and thanks Bob, I was able to remove the basket from the wrong part and install it in my original hook housing, the timing seems to be correct so later I will determine if it is all ok now. It was a good learning experience, although Bob didn't have a new basket in stock I did discover that that is a replaceable part so there was knowledge to be garnered from the entire ordeal.

I don't have that one, it is different in that the grove attachment is in the handle and the guiding edge is the curved item if that makes sense?

There was a lot to be learned from this one after a few failed attempts, 2 of the things that correspond to each other are the grove, and the stitches. I have not been able to get them as straight as I would like and also have not been able to get the grove like I want it. It is a learning process for sure, even in applying the sealer was an ordeal that should have been very straight forward. Having put thought in to the process after the fact, even the weather plays a part in how the sealer went on, for it being the 1st successfully completed holster I have something to look at and use as a learning tool for the next one.

Thanks all for the info!!!

no that is not correct, what I am saying is that when the needle travels down it is getting caught by the rotary hook and jamming, it will not travel any further. The rotary hook can no longer continue to spin and the needle can not continue to raise up due to being again caught by the hook.

and couldn't find one, does anyone know of a good one. I would like to make 3 for my grandsons out of leather with a wool, rabbit, or coyote lining and a liner of goretex or some other insulator if I can find one, but need the pattern, so does any one here know of 1. Thanks O n S AKA Ron

have checked ebay or amazon, there is another website, knifekits.com or .net they might have them and also carry other styles, Kydex etc.

earlier posts about timing the machine, as a side note I have been having a medical issue the last couple of days so I hope someone here can help clear up the confusion. As far as I can tell and my son has been helping we think the timing is ok (but), the needle is not raising up to miss the rotor hook and getting stuck at that point. Now I did have a big (my bad) just recently and broke the rotary hook and replaced it with a new one. Once getting the new hook install we went through the process of checking the timing and from what we can tell all is set right with the exception of the needle getting stuck. Is it that the needle bar needs to be readjusted or is it possible to be more than that and we need to go back and reset and recheck things. Hope the above makes sense, I am still under the weather and hope to have the meds to fix it soon. Thanks O n S Aka Ron

it is 8oz veg

this should work , so let me know what needs to be worked on

I have always enjoyed the quality that Milt Sparks portrays in his holster work, but could not bring myself to paying for one. But now after having gone through the trouble to cut, hand sew, die, edge work on and on I can have a better understanding of what goes in to making a good quality holster. So many people have gone to Kydex simply because they are less of a cost compared to Leather, but there something about leather that says and speaks class. Well as the title said this the first after 2 fails and there are still a bunch of problems with it, but it can only get better from here, what is left is to water form, then seal it, the straps, my wife liked this one and it should fit here gun so I will form it to hers. Let me know what y'all think the skin isn't to thin yet but be kind on an old man. Thanks O n S well I have to resize my photos to get them to post be back in a few

is the asking price of the 75.00 still to high for this item considering all that might need to be done? tia O n S

ok thanks

Thank You Bruce, that is the kind of answer I was looking for, do you think by removing some of the groves or all it would still function like it is suppose to? Or are there any newer parts that might be interchangeable and not cost a fortune to get? I did see a posting that you had done a few years back and was not sure if you were still here active I have not had a chance to search that. I try and sneak out to the garage and do some leather or Kydex work when I am not on the computer. Thanks again for the input and would you say that $75.00 is to much for that tool. Thanks O n S Ron

more info please is it still for sale if so how much? and where are you located. Thanks

well can you tell me more, about how much and what is missing and is it in it's current condition what it might be worth if anything. Thanks

want to try and get another photo up

is for sale and was hoping someone could chime it to tell if it is able to be restored to it's former self for skiving straps for belts. The current own knows nothing about it, but measured it for me and said that it measures out to 1.75 so it would work for a 1.5 inch belt. But can a blade be found for it as you can see from the pics it hasn't got one with it. Please some one let me know what y'all think it is not overly priced but not sure if the price is worth it. Now to hopefully post photos. Thanks Y'all. O n S

that's what I figure, I am going to order an extra part to keep on hand just in case terror strikes again in the future, it's not matter of if, but when

the part has been ordered, but the manual I have leaves a lot to be desired, but as I mentioned above for the most part I have it figure out. All I needed to do was look at it for a few minutes and let me grey matter soak in what was in front of me what went where, what was connected to which then decided that is was just a few cap screws, a few shafts, a cam here and a cam there loosen pull, tug raise one item, and I was off to the races, just like an engine just in smaller scale in compaired to some of the cat or Detroit engines I have worked on.

To add to the above, what I was able to figure out was that the pin and it's housing is made of a very thin pop metal with what looks like some stainless or polished aluminum items that keeps the hook mounted to the outer part the attaches to the shaft, with 2 set screws with one of the 2 sits on the flat of the shaft to ensure none movement while operating.

Well I can tell you what broke because there is not much left after removing it , but what brought my attention to it was the bobbin fell out so when I went to reinstall I noticed to center pin that bobbin locks on to was missing. I looked around and saw it on the floor, so my guess when I noticed the machine had gotten tight to turn I must have broke it then, not sure but that is my guess. After going back out and studying the set up again along with the photo of the new one my daughter in law ordered, I realized what would be coming and commenced to take the machine apart, it was a little tough getting it out. I figure that going in with a new one might be a little tough, but it is only some cap head screws and a few connecting points to disassemble more then reassemble, but hoped I might get someone to chime that might have done it. I can now see how some one with out a mechanical ability would be lost, with a little time I could take it apart and have it back together.

I have bought them from SLC, and Tandy has them, but on second hand you want them for reversible belts I think the name is Ohio bag works check with them.

not even one response to tell me I a frigging arse for disabling a perfectly good 206rb

and broke the rotary hook, not sure exactly when I did it, so now I have it removed and my daughter in law ordered one off ebay. it wasn't all that difficult in removing the rotary hook, but was wondering if when going back in with the new one if more needs to be disassembled than what I took apart to begin with. I knew that there would be learning curves so I can chalk this one up to one of those and be more cautious in the future.