OLDNSLOW

From Herman Oak, has anyone done a comparison, I stopped by SLC while on a road trip and have not had time to call Weaver to see what there price is. At SLC for what they call a belt cut it is 149.00 and no shipping cut from H/O leather as far as I know Weaver offers they same type of cut, that being their holster, belt cut, but not sure of the cost plus the shipping. If there are many that see this and read it I hope a few can chime in with your own opinion and to which one is the beast or are they comparable. Thanks O n S Ron

I don't mean to be a jerk here but, I hope this person isn't a friend of yours as it seems to me that is highway robbery you'd think was an attorney doing machine work on the side. Even as JLS mentioned above aluminum is not all that expensive, and most large metal yards will have drops for other cuts that can bought for much less than an entire piece.

Adam are still using the same tools to do the boning with when you do that work? Thanks O n S

I think that , that price is just a bit high for the item JMOP

I don't want to infer something here that may not be correct but, both of you guys have so much to offer to the community that it is unreal and I appreciate what both of you have given in one way or another. I will shut up now and go back in to my little space. Ron Padilla O n S

If you travel down to the garment district I am sure you could find someone will do to something, it would just be a mater of looking around down there, do you know where the district is?

sounds like you need to raise your prices, you'll know when it has gone to high but it will only last for a little while. Heck everything is going up cept maybe oil so go for it, you can always lower just a bit till you find the equilibrium point.

Thanks for the info I will have to try that.

Thanks, I keep going back and fourth between air brush and dauber when doing my coloring as I only have the harbor freight brush currently.

I meant to ask are you air brushing or using a dauber? Thanks Ron

Is that some H.O. leather? or? Are you doing one coat at a time to reach the end results? Also what wait leather do you use for your builds? Thanks O n S Ron

I would be interested in a makers stamp as well.

yup Tandy has them, they have the plated for a far lessor cost than stainless and they also have the stainless for about 2 to 3 times the cost, but if you can set up a weaver account you can get the for far less than what Tandy sells them at.

WCook, where are you located? If there is a company near by that will let you test machines that might be the best route so that you can see how they will function with the material you want to sew. O n S

My suggestion wouldn't work for a belt but would for a holster, get a food dehydrator and put the holster in it a for a period of time, and it might work for a belt depending on the size of the dehydrator.

something I picked up from the older farts (Imagine that) is square points on holsters, and it might apply to a sheath as well is to round the corners. I might be full of it, but something about the squared corners drew my eye to them, you might want to try and round them off. I might be full of it, but it might change the appeal of the sheath.

I don't know if it is right or wrong, what I have been doing even if there is a smooth finish is to take some gum trag and get that side super smooth then use tan-kote, although I may start to use resolene. Would like to hear what other do to finish up a belt.

I did yesterday and got to talk with him.

The first couple of projects that I did were black, what I would do is take a rag or towel and rub in the die until you get very little residue coming off of the leather on to the rag or towel, I then would take the ( in this case a belt) over to an electric buffer and use a buffing wheel and buff the crap out of it. Then I would go back to the towel for a few more rubs till again very little rub off then clear coat, that is what I have heard you have to do in order to not get the rub off from the black die. Again that is what I have been doing, and it seems as though that it is only the black that creates the problem, I have not had any problems with any other colors. If someone wonders what type of buffer, it is one you can buy at harbor freight and a buffing wheel that would be used for metal, just a 6 inch cotton buffing wheel, and buff the heck out of the leather till no more rub off that is the key so I have heard.

has anyone bought anything from this guy and received it, I keep calling wanting to buy from this guy and cant get a call back, I did speak with him on a few previous occasions but now nothing, I know he runs another business but he must not be hard pressed to sell like I thought he was oh well.

That be the only reason? And how is it working out for you? No issues with anything at all from customers on prior builds?

sold

Red, why do you use polly instead of nylon, And don't forget that reverse lever, stitch adjuster, I've only heard mind you, that if start of thinking your going forward and it goes backwards it's a bummer, so I have heard.

I have had mine for about a month now, there is a learning curve to working the machine and depending on your own experience and confidence in your abilities will determine the curve. Depending on where you bought your machine there should have been a CD that came with it, mine did and it is very helpful, I have gone back to it a few times. Each time I have gone back to the CD it helps to understand the operation a little better. One of the things that I did, but again your abilities may be different was to slow the speed way down to its slowest speed so that I can sew and watch all the things that are going on without tearing something up both material and machine. If you already have it set up and have sewed with it without problems then that is the 1st step, there were 2 of us here that were delivered machines and the motor had reverted to reverse running. There are in the event you did not get the CD some videos up on the website and utube as well, you'll find the videos informative and helpful, you really cant break it but you can mess it up, but again there are videos that can help getting it back to running again. Good luck with it you'll enjoy the machine, and as a note that are a bunch of other guys here with far more experience than I have on how the machine runs, but I digress, one of your questions about stitch size, well play with it, I have mine set at about 5stp and it works well for me on the holsters and belts I have been making. O n S Ron

not a problem thanks for getting back to me.