OLDNSLOW

I couldn't find any when I bought some myself so what I did was thinned to my liking and then checked for its effectiveness. Tandy has some red plastic spreaders that I bought and that is what I use to stir it all up. I did start to use the thinner when I found the glue starting to become very thick and gooey for lack of a better term, and it seemed to work just fine in fact I need to order more thinner here in the near future, but I would say to mix a little, check the consistency and then add ore if need be.

It could be that their business model is changing some, it seems like about every 4 years a lot of companies are sort of a holding pattern and unsure of what the very near future holds for then.

Keplerts, how long have you been buying from them or how long have you had the account? I thought for a few moments that I was just lucky cuz I didn't get me a personalized letter like Y'all did ------------till recently. But at first I get real kick the dog and the cat mad but when I got hold of myself and calmed down a bit I thought ya know what I gonnna make a phone call and tell em what I think, cuz ya see I didn't open my account till march and made my first purchase in April. And I thought ok gee whiz maybe I wont have to worry till March or April but nope, so I make the call seez and I ask for Jim Weaver and after several calls cuz I'm the kinda guy that don't give up. so I get the guy Jim on the phone and I tellz him that I think it aint fare that i'm beeun done this way, so he says let me take a look and he seez to me ok well will give you one more year to spend that much and then if ya don't yer outa here and I saez to him goodnuff, so fer what ever it is worth go back and seez my first question. Ron

I sorta scored a deal when I got the ones I have from the mold guys, every now and then they will have a sale of seconds and you can get like 8 to 10 of the molds for like 90 or 100 so it worked out to a degree. The only bummer on the ones I got is that it had some doubles like to of the glock 43's and one other that had a double but I traded with a guy for one he had and one I had so it worked ok, but still have 2 glock 43's but for 10 bucks each I cnat complain.

Well I ordered up some of them there 26 needles so I can punch some big o'l holes with some 346, now it's kinda like a kid in a candy store and cant wait to see what is in the cracker jack box, thanks again fer the lead.

I have both a 12 ton shop press as well as a vacuum table that I set up, the vacuum table uses the membrane sold by one of the guys that competes with all the other makers for the kydex guys dollars. I tried using both in the beginning and now will only use the vacuum table for forming, after a few moments under vacuum I will brake the vacuum and do some boning then return to vacuum back and forth till I get what I am after, I will no longer use the 12 ton for forming it is dedicated to clicking. You just need to work at it till you get what your after, but I must say that your work looks very nice to my eye on the computer, but to the makers eye the desired outcome might not be there. Ron

I have several of them and took a drill to the trigger area wasn't a big deal and if your good with small jewelers files that you can buy at Harbor freight you can work the ejection post back in to the mold of the gun. For leather they work ok, not the refined job of a blue gun and don't claim to be but they work and as mentioned ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ above at a lower cost in fact have a few that I am selling just for the plug. Ron

Ya I was trying to go through 2 layers of 8/9 1 layer of 1/2 and a layer of elephant, it should have been able to handle it. But doing it with a 25 needle and didn't really adjust the foot pressure, and the thread tension was a little tight so it did struggle some. But I need to get me some of the bigger needles, I hadn't really asked that question about thread and machine when I set out to try it, I guess I shoulda known better but at least it didn't ruin the project completely. It was one of those gosh dern it I didn't do this or that first, I was just excited to do the project cause it was looken real nice. it still does its one I am giving to my son and wanted it just right, he likes it so I get to ponder the project for the next one I do. Thanks y'all

thanks for the lead I added those to my wish list for my next buy.

and you have to remember that in the hope and change society her in Merica right now people are being sued for not making a cake like someone wanted course that is a whole nother discussion. but just imagine for a moment that someone did have an issue what the financial cost could be to you and your family. But this has now been beat down fairly well, like someone ^^^ else mentioned patterns are out there, build or don't build it is your decision.

Ya I might just go back to 277 till ready to buy some more needles, I did check the needle and it had the slightest of burrs but a burr none the less, and I understand that a burr can start to contribute to skipped stitches. I like the looks of 346 over 277, and I recall Jeff you made a comment about a big hole left so I was trying to fill that darn thing up.y

wondering who runs one of these machines, with a 346 top thread and smaller bottom and a 25 needle and what kind of luck you have with it? I have been wanting to try this combination and just tried some but kept having problems with the top thread and or if I might have backed off my tension to much. And I might have also bent the tip of the needle, I haven't checked yet, but it started to skip a stitch every once in a while. thanks for any replies. Ron

I keep thinking in relationship to a hot box if one of those boot dryer thingies that you turn yer boots upside down on would work? There are some that come with a heat element to help with the drying, just wondering.

seems to work just fine over here in Tuckessee.

Is there more than one place to buy the Chahin? I know that weaver sells it as their next best choice and have thought about it but haven't bought that large size of leather yet. The most recent buy for vegtan was from SLC and that was the cut they sell for belts, but just curious if you talked to weaver about the quality that you received and what the response was? I want to make a purchase in the very near future and sort of in the same boat, cost, and quality is what I need to be the for most issue, and I know that is an oxymoron when thinking good quality at low cost. A thought that has crossed my mind and I know that it has worked in other situations is to do a group buy, don't know who would be interested or how it would all work out, just thinking out loud.

I have used some of the micro fiber towels to buff off after the dye, the only color I seem to really have a problem with is black, on some items I have rubbed for days and still get some rub off. I have looked in to getting one of the buffing wheels that goes on a shoe repair machine, the brush it's self can run anywhere from 40 to 100. When I did call one company they wanted to know how I was going to use it and even stated that if I was going to be using it at greater than 1750 rpms they wouldn't even consider selling to me. Their thinking was that rpm was to high and would burn the leather. I have gone to HF and bought some buffing wheels and attached them to the motor I use for burnishing to use on black and it worked ok. If you take a look at prince leather he uses a shoe buffing brush on attached to a motor with one of those cables like the ones for a Dremel. and I remember the days of lighter fluid and spit shined boots over 40 years ago but never manty or panty hose maybe some old drawers specially in the barracks.

a gum rubber eraser might work like the ones they say will remove glue from the leather. If you want a large one for low cost, you can find one at harbor freight, the one that HF has is for cleaning and removing buildup on sanding belts and discs.

You can do what mutt said above, or you can get a much cheaper bench polisher from harbor freight and mount the burnishing tool on it. the polisher from HF is probably 70 and it you get a 20% discount coupon than it is even less. There have been discussions here on the board as to whether a motor should run at 1750 or a little over 3000 rpm, if you use a 3000 rpm motor you would want to use a little less pressure when burnishing. There will no doubt be others that will chime in as to what rpm to use so on and so forth, but depending on the route you take will still result in a learning cure as to what best works for you. Keep in mind that what works well for one person might not work for another and only time and practice will get you to the place where you want to be. Oh and I almost forgot to mention that you can look at amazon as well for (2) speed polishing motors that will have different size shafts. Good luck

here is the end results for both holsters, please not that I make a larger belt slot in the event that I can up sell and include one of my stainless lined gun belts that have a thicker profile over a different gun belts

If you make it, they will watch!

looks good one little note about an Item I did not catch earlier, some people jumped on me about it now I make sure I get it done, and that is to make sure that you get some dye down in the belt hole that can be seen. Use a q tip or squeeze a dauber in there and get some dye in the it will bring less attention to the area.

I have had on one occasion when I applied the clear coat it caused to dye to run just a tad bit and I had applied with a sponge. Whew long sentence, but I have used the same process again and not had it happen, but always approach with a little caution. The only way to learn is to try and see what happens and hopefully not ruin a good project, and believe me I have thrown a lot of leather in the last year plus learning and still learn everyday, and even at 63 hope to never stop learning but try and keep it to a minimum as it can get costly. Good luck.

Thanks I just wasn't sure how it was going to come out.

I have a mixture of beees wax carnuba and neatsfoot oil that I use, but I use that when I am burnishing the edges and there are a lot of others that use a it during the burnishing process but I guess you could try it and see how it goes then report back, and remember no photos of evidence and it didn't happen.

An air brush is not needed, however a lot people like to use them especially in situations like yours, and the reason is that it will make the edge coat run and mix with the leather dye, if I am using anything special on a edge I sill use a moist sponge to apply. If there is multiple colors then yes use an airbrush but it doesn't take a lot of practice to use just pick up a system and jump in with both feet, kinda like jumpen in to a cow paddy patch with no shoes and gitten all up twixt ye toes just do it. As far as yer sprayer try it on a scrap with a 50/50 mix and some light coats so it don't run all over and yer tryun to catch it. hope it helps