OLDNSLOW

I'll let you add it to my bill.

never mind I did some searching and found ( YOUR UTUBE ) videos!!! And saw what you did I just hope Uwe will have the stuff at the 1st of the month when I can order them.

I have the cobra 4 as well, but I thought that the drop down roller guide had vertical and the machine has horizontal or visee versee something like that.

did you have to drill and tap to make the drop down work? been thinking about it but the holes aren't the same so real curious . Thx

I diidnt look that far in to their website so not sure.

I was searching the web tonight for blue gun sources and ran across one that I don't think I have seen before. Now some of you might know about them and some might not, when I saw the name and figured where they were located I went ahead and gave a call. The name of the company is Boise Foundry, and from the name I kind of figured that they poured stuff in to molds, so I thought aw what the heck I'll give a call, and sure enough they make Aluminum mold guns, And their prices seem to be very reasonable most of their molds run around $38.50 plus the postage so not all that sure that it beats all the others in price. But they are Aluminum, from what I was able to get from the conversation is that they do buy blue guns then make the aluminum molds from them, oh and by the way from looking at their website it looks like they make stuff the saddle makers could use so some of you might want to check them out.

which of the 2 bottom stitches do you like? I am not to fond of the LL, maybe its just cause all I have used in the short time I've been doing it is the s point.

RED BURGERS, only when I order my prime rib

Apprenticeship programs have been on the decline in this country for several decades in most all trades, there are many factors that have contributed to the decline of the programs. Computer age for one or evolution has been one of the major factors in its decline, everyone wants to sit at a desk and get paid top dollar and not get their fingers dirty, Mike Row has addressed this in some of the talks he has given, the educational process has cut out the funding for a lot of the programs that use to be mandatory many years back. Europe has been and will probably remain in the forefront of apprenticeship programs and the workmanship shows in the quality of the products that they produce. An entire thesis could be written on this subject matter I know I wrote one for BS paper many years ago, so there is no point in trying to describe the slow death of the programs here in the US.

that or they are just wacked

If you are looking to skiving belt ends it is ok, but as those above have said you'll need to keep a strop handy to strop the blade after a few belt ends. I do have one and I think it is the same as that one, if your lookin at splitting leather after a just a few, no more than 4,5 you will definitely need to sharpen the blade, one thing that can help to make it last is to not use the same area of the blade, keep moving around so the blade will last a little longer.

That's why I thought that he could try another section and how it takes the dye, I learn and experience something different with each cut of leather and how each responds to dye, clear coats or burnishing edges. you might find yourself having to trash a build even though it hurts like heck when things don't go the way you thought it should.

sorry had to reread your post, can you tell if that section of leather has any variation to the surrounding area? Think back did you do something that might work as a blocker? I did a belt the other day and changed up my procedure a little and when I noticed where the problem area was I had to think what might have caused it. I was doing a black belt and I punched all the holes prior to dyeing and noticed that the holes were not taking the dye, and what it was is that I had used wax on my punches that was going to create a blocker once I cleaned it with denatured alcohol I had no problem. Check if you can with another section of the leather to see how it reacts and think about your process that's about all I can recommend.

with the oil base I don't believe that there will be the problem experienced with the USMC, I have done brown bases as well prior to a black usmc coat and still had problems so not sure what the answer is other than to try oil or alcohol. And as a thought I would think that a blue base would work better but have not looked for a blue dye. keep in mind that with the oil dye if you want you can still cut that with denatured alcohol to make it stretch.

Yes let me give a word of caution and it only applies when drying the beads, us a cheap face mask as there will be some silica dust that comes off the beads. The dust can be harmful to your lungs, but don't let this caveat detour you from using it. You will find that it is used in a multitude of ways where there is an extreme method of controlling humidity. I was trying to recall the name of the company that I bought my last batch from and used them in the method I described in the other post, I took a empty plastic coffee container punched holes in them and I had an extra dehumidifier, you can also find some at Academy sporting goods. It looks like a large tin can with the beads in it, and when it turns color you pop it in the oven for a few hours and it is good to go again. Good luck

I think I read it here in another post, that the biggest culprit of rub off is the USMC black, that it has way more pigment in it than the other blacks. I know I have had the same problem, I was able to resolve some of it by using a powered horse hair buffing brush, but once I am done with the current bottle of dye i wont rebuy any USMC dye, it will be the oil based dye to work with. I have a holster drying now that I used the USMC on but I dip dyed it to see if there is going to be as much rub off or less and what the outcome will be when I have buffed and sealed totally.

Most major sporting goods stores will sell dehumidifier for gun safes, they are not very expensive to buy and you could have a few different ones in the area that you designate as your vault, some are plug in and some are battery operated and some nothing more than silicone beads in containers that once turn from blue to pink to indicate saturation. The beads once saturated with moisture you dry them in the oven and reuse them, that will allow you to help keep humidity to a minimum. You can also look on line for the same items and or search for silicone beads used for dehumidification place them in the used plastic coffee containers, I think you'll get the idea.

Your handle is TNhomestead so I'm figuring that your here in TN somewhere so depending on what part of that state your in if you need a hand with anything let me know. I am up near Ft Campbell but on the Clarksville side so just shoot me a pm if I can help out.

You have a ton of resources to you being in Ridgecrest, I lived in the South land all my life till moving 4 years ago to TN. There is a leather dealer just above Santa Barbra, and of course you have Tandy in L.A. and several others that go all the way to up to Oregon, and Washington, that I am sure can supply you with cut strap material. Do a search here on this site for dealers and you'll find one that can help you out.

You really need to buff the shite out of the black dye or you will get smudges and rub off if you don't. You need to have a good buffing brush or do it by hand till you get no more rub off. Then you can use the clear coat with no problem. just to throw this out there I bought a good horse hair brush that will work with my drill press but it wasn't cheap it was like 90.00 with shipping, but cant figure why I didn't get one sooner, I just finished a belt that is black and it make all the difference in the world. If you look up a utube video for Prince leather you watch him using a brush during a black holster build. It also shows him using a spray at the end it is called leather sheen put out by Fiebings, I started to use it after clear coating it and does a great job like the difference between night and day.

I did use a drill press, but now have other motors for burnishing and use the drill press with a horse hair buffing polishing brush running around 7 to 900 rpm the brush is great for black dyed items. the brush came from Pilgrim shoe and sewing machine but was a little pricey

he has a number posted above, I spoke with him when I bought mine, I guess I was one of the first in line when he posted everything. You might try his number but my guess is that if he is not following he might be all sold out, just a guess on my part your best bet is to try his cell number.

Well then what ya do for the little dinky do is, get a cement block and some medium length rope tie it around the block and well I think ya get the idea. I can tellya it works now I have a HUGE problem with male moose knuckle, oh my!

Thanks TT for the input on that I will give that a try and see what happens.

They had a big poster at the 2 entrance doors at the Nashville Store about the military discount. If you start going in on a regular basis you might find that if there are some items not sold during the sale they will still honor the sale price.