jrmysell

It's 4 months late, but here's what I ended up doing. I just did a full welt on the entire sheath. Here's the knife, 1095 with Honey Mesquite scales. Does anybody know how to do pictures? Can't seem to figure it out.

Yeah, I'll definitely post pics when I'm done. Have 3 finals left this week (2 last week, 4 this week), then going home Saturday and will start the knife on Monday, so it'll still be a couple weeks.

That looks good!

This is a great question. I am going to be making my first pancake sheath next month when I get back to the states. From what I have read and been told, all knife sheaths where the blade is exposed should have a welt, but I have also watched the video you mentioned and noticed he doesn't do a welt. I plan on using a welt and doing like you and tapering it to the edge. Hopefully some experts shed some light on this.

Thanks for the tip, I could stitch twice, and just use a cheaper thread I have to use it up. I plan on antiquing after forming, it was more the basket weave impressions fading, I guess that's the best word for it, from soaking the leather to mold it. But that thread is more what I was looking for than I found, as I was just searching for pancake sheath tooling. Didn't even thing to look for holster threads.

Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for. I have some natural Barbour's Linen Thread that I'll use, but I plan on dying it for most of the first few sheaths I do, so that shouldn't be a problem, but I could also wait and stitch at the end too. I will use "sticky wax" and wax the thread myself. I was mainly worried about getting it wet enough to form it, but not lose the stamping. Once again, thanks.

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply has Tiger thread in the different sizes and colors here in the U.S.

I am making a knife as a gift for someone and am going to be making a pancake style sheath. I want to do a basket weave design on the front, and dye it and use antique for the tooling. I plan on tooling, then doing the dyeing, then putting the sheath together. When forming the sheath to the handle, everywhere that I've looked says to soak the sheath to form it. My question is, will this effect the tooling or the dye? I've read that getting the leather too wet while tooling will cause them to lose definition. Am I overthinking this and everything should be fine or will I possibly run into trouble doing this? Just to clarify, after forming, I can then use resolene, antique, and resolene again to finish it? Thanks everybody.

Don't know about the bonded. But for anyone interested, Rocky Mountain Leather Supply has Tiger thread in most (may be all) colors, and different sizes, 0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2mm. And they have the different sizes of John James Harness Needles. They are a U.S. source, which I know doesn't help you being in the UK, but for everybody else interested in the states.

Campbell Randall Machinery has some right twist in Barbour's linen thread in different cord sizes. I just ordered some from them.

Looks great!

Thanks everybody! I went ahead and ordered it. I plan on getting a Barry King basket weave too as I plan on using it pretty often. I have heard with the basket weave, it's much easier to do consistent work with a nicer tool.

I bet this is the reason.

Great work!

Good work!