Shorts

Just like the title says, have you worn another maker's holster? Before you started building yours? After you started building yours? Ever compare the fit? Features? Have they influenced you in your builds? Not looking for names, generalities are fine. I'm just asking questions I think some are interested in knowing the answers to, but were too afraid to ask

Tom, nice work. I like how you did the belt loop. Looks so effortless!

Those are beautiful! I really like the shark.

Nice - thanks Richard.

I get solid results with Resolene.

Preyty much what Harry said. I don't use shears, I use a utility knife and make passes on my lines until the leather is cut. I do that for all my holster patterns. On my belts, I use a strap cutter and those do get cut straight in one slice.

I started with 1911s. Myself and my family use them, so, building them is a no brainer. You will find differences in width in the fullsize 1911 from the various Manf. Learning which molds to use comes with a little practice. I added a certain gun if I got requests for them. That'll be a decision for you to make as to how you want to schedule to buy new ones. I'd highly recommend using model specific guns for holsters due to retention concerns. I prefer the right holster for the right model, as I think the quality is in the details. There are some models that can be used for a variety of guns, Glocks are an example, 1911s very often as well. But don't short change your reputation, its going to be your name on the leather. For the last 6 or 7 months I've sold on Ebay and gun forums. I've tailored where by measuring my costs vs profits. Options for sale include making our own website, auction websites, forums, a local gun shop, gun shows, farmer's markets, a store front you put up. I'm currently in the transition stage moving back home to the States so I'll have to get a few more things squared away in regards to state paperwork and FFL. Quick tip, go to your state's gov website, there should be a Business section in there that will lead you through the paperwork process. An option is Legalzoom.com Along with holsters I make mag pouches and can make belts. Though at this stage without a machine stitcher, belts are very time intensive for cost so those will wait until the reopening. You'll have to figure out on your own what kind of pace to expect from yourself. Its not a race. And if starts to become one your quality will suffer for it. I think you should go about building for a month or so and see how you settle out as far as production goes. These first couple months you need to take notes so you can evaluate yourself. Time, materials, trends, etc. This will let you see and feel your baseline. You'll also need to decide what kind of custom orders you'll take. I think every maker gets an oddball requests here and there. You need to decide if its worth your costs and TIME to pattern it and build it. If so, I highly recommend you get your money first. Its not fun to be left holding the bag on an odd part that doesn't really fit anything else when the customer up and vanishes.

Randy, I found HO to be tougher to cut as its 'firmer'. Makes my fingers sore and I have to use more pressure. But straps are easy as it just slices. As for wet molding, it's super easy to mold. I think you'll accept the 'tougher to cut' characteristic when you get your item finished. I really dig HO

+1 above - go meet the neighbors! For straps, also as mentioned above. Get your straight edge cut, then go right ahead with a strap cutter.

A veg tan piece ought to work just fine. A 7/8oz or 8/9oz would work for OWB. I prefer 8/9oz on the 8 side. But for a first holster, a 7/8oz is easy to work with, not too thick and not too thin. Be forewarned, exotics are a little more difficult to stitch, but it can be done. I'm not doing them until I have machine. But if you want to, go for it. Shoulders from Tandy are fine for starting with. Don't get the cheap cut, it'll have too many blemishes and stretch marks that will show up in the end, even causes some heartache in the dye department. For black dye, I use EcoFlo dye since that's all I can get here. But Feibings has a variety of other dyes that'll work. I'd actually go elsewhere and find Angelus dye. As for cant I've seen FBI referred to a 15*. But "FBI" is not really a set term and its just used cause it sounds cool So "FBI" means different angles to different makers lol I like to keep my holsters about 10-15* for an easy draw. Extreme cants I use a 30-32*

I've used Satin Sheen, Tan Kote and Resolene. For overall better feel, I prefer the way Resolene finishes. TanKote and Satin Sheen feels hard & plasticky and makes quality leather feel cheap. I have a couple belts I built and they are excellent examples of the 'feel' each finish produces.

airbrushed: Re: "blotchy" - I take offense to that. Blotchy is a negative word. "Marbled" works better and actually come out great. I built a lot of brown marbled holsters and pictures online don't do them justice. If you're having leather or dye problems, you get blotchy. If you want marbled, that takes a bit more skill and the proper dye and app.

Cut, glue, stitch, mold, dye, edges, topcoat. Depending on the finish I want to achieve, I use a wool dauber or an airbrush. I topcoat using airbrush at this time. (Dip dye and dip topcoat is my next step)

Hey Rhome, glad to see you're getting settled in. Nice job on the holsters and getting the prototypes into testing. We're heading back in Feb so I'm closing up and will be transitioning just the same. take care!

I use full strength Resolene around 13psi from a cheapo 5.99 Harbor Freight airbrush. I just use the tip to adjust a heavier or lighter coat. If you stop spraying for a few minutes and walk off, the tip will dry slightly and you'll get a little Resolene boogy. So check the tip if you do the same. Of course when you're done, be sure to rinse out the brush and tube to its ready.

Hi folks, I'll be in the market for a good solid stitching machine starting in February '09. I'm hoping to find an Artisan 3000. I will be sewing double 7oz+ leather for holsters, belts and possible other gear. So it must be able to do the job. If you're contemplating changing equipment or cleaning shop, please let me know. Depending on location, a pickup is possible. I don't mind working out delivery either if its further away. I'm putting this out now, I know its still a few months away but I figured it can't hurt to put the word out. Thanks Forgot location. I'll be in Texas

Good work. I like how they came out.

Welcome :D Ah Brownwood - I haven't heard that place in a while.

I learn something new every day.

I've seen the tutorial posted about the belt, but I was curious how you folks go about finishing a belt after you've dyed it one color or another. How'd you finish the edge? On my belt here I top coated with Resolene. Not sure if that's how its done or if oil is the way to go or what. Any advice?

Cool Things are good. I took the last week off from holsters to get my first belt done. I needed that much time to hand stitch a belt! lol I'm going to wrap up here soon before the end of the year, just temporarily until we get ourselves moved and settled in back in the States. I'm hoping by summer I can get going again, with a new stitching machine, new patterns (drawn in these coming months of off time) for holsters, additional mag pouches and now belts. Plus I hope to get a new website up and online. Needless to say, a lot of things to work on, and I hope to keep rolling forward with the positive responses to my holsters thus far

Good work on this holster. I tried a prototype myself and it is a challenging model to build. They work really well, but challenging.

I use HO and I enjoy working with it. It finishes nicely and molds very well. I have yet to try W&C so I cannot compare it to HO.

Aw that looks sexy! Nice Nice

That's a lot of stitching Tom. Get your fingers and wrists all warmed up! In the 78" of total stitching I had to lay, there was nearly 400 stitches total. I spread it out over several days. I lost track of the hours since I worked on it pieces at a time. But it was over 3hrs and took much longer than my holsters holsters. And that was just a 33.5" belt for myself! Can't imagine one for the uh, full grown man! Anyhow, I think of stitching the belt was like climbing Mt Fuji. I'm glad I did it once to experience it and I'll never do it again! You're right though, the design makes a pretty big difference on what's gotta be done. Post up the bass strap when you get it all done.