Shorts

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I was wondering if it was a concern I should address or not. Frankly, makes it much easier for it to be something that doesn't need "fixin". I mean, I just don't know if it's something customers would care about. "Oh yeah, she makes some decent stuff but that part of the pouch tears up my ___ so I don't order from her" sort of thing. I don't want to unintentionally turn off customers for a problem I have no clue I need to adjust

Well I got a double mag pouch prototype built. I'm using just scrap 7/8oz I have around here. From what I can tell on this unlined pouch, my blue mags aren't getting scratched (yet?). Before I inserted the mag into the wet leather, I put in the mock belt in the back belt loop tunnel. The indention from the mock belt on the inside of the pouch acts as a plateau right over the slight rim of the post eyelet. That looks promising. At the very least, its pretty unobtrusive. I'll reserve total judgement until this dries and I can test this thing out on my belt. I've been thinking of getting some real thin liners but, not sure if it'll be harder to stitch by hand.

I'm working on some mag pouches. I'm going with the snap on belt loop for the attachment. And the only way to put the snap on is to have that post eyelet on the inside of the leather. Is that correct? Does anyone line pouches where they use a snap? I'm concerned about the metal piece scratching or scuffing up, in this case, a magazine. I don't want to line anything. I don't think it would damage the mag structurally, but it would maybe be unsightly. Am I overthinking this?

No kidding. Now, let's see a CNS/PNS diagram! Nice work

Bruce then that would be why I don't see it :D Nice work

I like the color as well. As mentioned, could be something on the leather. Though I have no idea what or why other people would have trouble and I get away with completely abusing a holster as I make it and it comes out alright. Could have to do with the type of dye and its sensitivity to anything on the leather vs another type of dye. Is it me or does that 1911 have no slide stop pin exiting the right side of the frame???

I was wondering if anyone used 2 different weights of leather to build a holster. For example, 7/8oz on the back piece and a 8/9oz on the front piece. (or vice versa?) What are the pros and cons? Advantageous at all? Any benefits? Complete waste of time? What are ideal applications?

Excellent work Don! I've been needing a pony for my holsters and really been wanting a pony to start belt since I don't have a sewing machine. Its interesting how the best tools and jigs are made on days where the stores are closed and you have to Macgyver the project with the itemsyou have on hand. Yours doesn't look Macgyvered! lol

Great belt Grunt! Love the style! I also wanted to echo Don's comments about stitching across the width of the belt. It'll be a bit stronger area, and quicker to just stitch along the edges of the belt to secure the keeper.

I see - thanks Crystal. I believe I may have some Christmas presents all lined up

Crystal, great work on the pouch. I was digging in the drawers for something the other day and ran across hubby's dual cigar pouch and considered giving it a go. Running across your post just might be a sign! What sized dowels are needed? What weight of leather would work well?

Thanks Ok, you have not lived until you try grooving the rough side of a holster! ...working on a cross draw I've had requests for. But I do have this holster above edited and ready for a rebuild. These two are spawn from the same design.

Initial impressions: - The fit - the holster is not intrusive and doesn't feel like its poking me. In fact, the fullsize 1911 sits comfortably, very comfortably. I'm sitting in this chair, and while I feel the end of the holster on my hip and the grip of the gun in my 'nook' here on my side, it isn't poking. That's good. Now if I lean over to the side, the grip safety tang will poke my ribs, pretty darn high up too (I have a short torso...or I am short..you know the drill) - Putting on belt - tougher than pancake or snap on holster. To put on, I first looped the belt into the rear slot in the holster, then through the belt loop on the jeans at 4oclock, then through the tunnel on the holster. This will be tricky with a thicker gun belt (I'm wearing a casual Carhartt leather belt that is between 1/8"-3/16" thick). But by doing it this way, it puts the holster in the position that I prefer wearing my holster - at 3oclock just behind my hip bone. - Drawing - I've never had a holster draw this well before. Its slick and smooth. Could be a mistake lol Kidding, I think it's the nature of this style, the fold over holster. It feels like a smoother draw to me, YMMV. I think the attachment to the belt is very snug in a vertical aspect that the draw is tight without any extra movement. - Stability - Moves more on a lateral plane centered on the belt. However, I just raced down the stairs to answer the phone, it didn't "flop". It moved, but there was no, what I would describe as, "flopping". If you're intending on carrying while you run, I suggest not a 1911 and not a belt holster This characteristic was my largest concern for this type of holster. If it sits too low on the belt, it isharder to conceal. If it sits too high, it is unstable. That's about it for now. I'm going to leave this on a few hours and do my work around here. This will allow me to get more familiar with the holster. Here are pics of how it sits...yes, great players are made in the offseason

Jeff, they are a definitely little more complicated to build. It takes more planning. It's tough to dye as well. I tried swabbing the dye, it's tricky, especially on a water-based dye that must go on only after wet molding. I may have better luck using the airbrush. But getting under the rear tunnel and evenly along the support piece edges....tricky. It will be great when I can dip dye (once back in the States). Also, applying my maker's mark was a bit of a trick. As I said, it's all rough cut on this one but it is a learning experience that's for sure. I'm going to get it on the belt here in a bit and see how it feels. From that and the after-build evaluation, I can make some nice edits to the pattern that should have me pointed in a good direction. Thanks for the tips on the tunnel loop. I'm always open to advice

Ahhh I see. I can groove. The thought sped across my mind but that's about all it did in there. I'll also try out wetting/pressing those stitches down. Dwight, thanks for the tip on the Bianchi method. I'll try it out. I used 7/8oz for this one. It is this pattern that makes me want a machine more (I've been mostly indifferent to it thus far). I'm eyeballing the Artisan 3000 but that is just a dream at the moment. Like a 16 yr old kid with a new driver's license All in good time.

Well I finally built this pattern, been holding it for a while because it takes slightly more time to hand stitch. I love the look, but...I have my reservations. What I do not like about it is that the stitching is inside the holster and is rubbed by the gun with every single draw. I think that this is the nature of the beast on this pattern overall. But I still don't like it that way. Is there any way to help these stitches last or is it just one of those things??? Ohh forgive the 'in the white' pics. I put the pattern on a rough piece of leather just to get it built. You can see the boo-boos. And the stitching on the gun is from an unrefined pattern...tell tale sign there at the trigger guard

Jordan - that's great news As for the farmers market, go with what's rolling. Isn't it neat to see what items are gaining interest out of the selection you put forth?? Take care

Trevor - excellent! I really dig the way that's one. And thank you for the pictures. They make the explanation very easy to understand

Windy - love your posts!

Good thoughts Troy. Holsters do need to be protected from every day grime, but also oils and grit from the gun. The longer those can be kept from penetrating the leather, the longer the holster will last. Kate, great idea about the wax.

Great info - thanks guys

I see. What would be considered the 'right snaps'? I'm assuming the heavy duty oriented snaps such as DOT or Pull the Dot types?

I've been seeing a lot of these belt blanks that have the option to come with snaps. Are snaps really effective in keeping a belt together? Just off the top of my head, seems rivets or stitching is stronger and would last longer. Why snaps?

This thread here can get you started: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1352

Ah! I was looking at the picture of the brown holster in your original post. But then it made no sense as to how the Glock in the photo turned into what is in your molding pics. But the stitching on this one you posted are exceptional as well! The method I use to lay down stitches is I use a pattern drawn on a piece of paper. If you look at my pic, the pattern is what I use each and every time to trace the shape onto my leather before I cut it from the shoulder. Then I glue the pattern together and do the edges. If you look closely you'll see little holes in the stitch lines on the paper. When I'm ready to groove I lay the paper on top of my leather and I use my small scratch awl and poke each hole (not deep - very lightly!) to mark the leather. Remove the paper pattern and connect the dots with the groover. Wet the grooves and run your stitching wheel, then punch your holes and stitch. (I usually wait to punch holes until the leather has dried from the stitch wheel step. Once it all stitched, its ready to wet mold. To make the paper pattern, draw the shape of the holster you want. Then lay the gun on top of the pattern and trace along the top and bottom of the gun....or vice versa, just get lines drawn A typical distance between the gun and stitch line is 1/2" (may need more if it is a wide-bodied). To make it consistent, I tape a pen side by side to a pencil then used that for my spacer. For the back of the holster, I don't make mine flat, but its up to you how you want yours to be. I let the leather take the shape of the pistol. I do not bone the backside, but I hand press the contours. For the front side, I bone. I have not found a holster uncomfortable from this method.