Shorts

Yes, both project are from the same hide. In fact, the pieces were cut right next to each other. It's possible the holster could have picked up oils from my hands and such from working on it through the process, though that's my normal handling and routine. Could it be the piece were neard the edge of the hide? I'll have another piece ready to due in the next day or so and I'll see how that one takes.

Well, just did another holster and the results were much nicer than the last couple pieces I worked on. Not sure why but hopefully the results keep up.

My old leather I was working with took dyes very well. Soaked it up. This new piece I'm working from doesn't really like to take color or absorb the dye. I'm using EcoFlo waterbased dye (not my preference, only thing I can ship overseas). The dye is even more splotchy and doesn't want to get in there. Can I prep the leather in some way so that its more absorbant? Even my black Kiwi leather dye that is always champ was having trouble. I applied 3 times because the color would come out that dark indigo blue. What's going on and how do I work around it?

That's just gorgeous - no way around it

In this litigous society we live in, its a very smart idea to have insurance. Also, depending on your entity status, its even smarter to have insurance. I'm currently setting up my things too so its all fresh on my mind.

+1 Hilly I handstitch using the double stitch method. See Al Stohlman's book for technique. Cut and glue the pattern. Groove the stitch lines. Use a stitch wheel to mark the holes, then punch each hold with a diamond awl (I use 8/9oz leather and it works fine). I use glover's needles to stitch as the eye is small and does not deform and break like the stitchers needles. Be aware, glover's needles are sharp so slicing thread may happen more. Technique is vital...and dull blades :D If you want easy, I still use the beginner's kit from Tandy. It includes Stohlman's book, the 4 tools (awl, groovers, wheel and scratch awl) and thread. (I can't recall exactly so please refer to the website). Now, I've added individual things here and there but this is a great way to get the tools and info you need to get started. Good luck and welcome

Hilly, good tip on the cuticle cutters. gunfighter48, the drop of glue sounds great as well (I have tons of stuff from my airplane models). I think the tips here used in conjunction with each other ought to make for some very solid endings

Ditto on the transfer. A couple of my snugger holsters have the blue mark.

Hey Mike, been going between this thread and 'Vinegaroon toolbag". I look forward to the pics of your holster.

That came out real nice. I've done test pieces, but yet to do it on a holster. I'm still trying to figure out what to use for the oil step to darken it, or if I should just acrylic coat it and seal it the color that it dries.

Thanks Jordan. I'll take a look.

I'm starting to take some steps and planning for the possibility to get going on home-business path. I wanted to get some insight on necessities and must-dos in regards to setting up the business and bookkeeping side of the house. Can anyone shed some light on the process and considerations I need to do to get setup and organized. Or is this an extremely vague request?? Maybe another resource I can take a look at? I guess I'm just curious where to start to get "my plan".

lol Well not for hubby's. But I've been brainstorming lately, and I'm thinking I might get a batch together with squadron and staff patches stamped on them. See if I can drum up a little business around here Thanks everyone!

Hmm, interesting. Thinking it over, it seems that even trimming the height on that front area would still catch, as the cylinder, regardless of the height of the holster would still have to pass by the edge. Just taking wild stabs, what about molding the shape of the cylinder into the area it hits?...extend the cylinder mold all the way to the top (I realize that option may decrease retention a bit. Another idea, add a slight cant to the holster. I have found on a holste I made for the Springfield that the gun catches the lips of the holster upon reholstering. I've found it a bit frustrating as it's dinging up the leather pretty good. I think it is doing that because that holster does not have a cant to it, at least, not as much as others I have made. Just throwing out random ideas.

Thanks Regis. I'll pick up some lighter weight leather, right now I've only got 8/9oz for holsters. <-- That'd blow 'slim line' right out of the water

Did good on your first holster The stitching looks pretty even as well. I echo TwinOaks' sentiments about adding another ear to clip to for stability. Another idea that will clean up further would be to even the edges of the leather, maybe with a dremel, then burnish them to seal them up. That'll keep fibers from fraying. Look forward to further holsters!

Regis, I too have been less than impressed on several of my ending backstitch areas. As said, pull the thread through the backside. Another way I cut the ends very close is I use a small diagonal cutting plier to cit the length of thread as close to the leather as possible. It makes a much neater (and easier for me) cut, and I less chance of the blade accidentally slipping and cutting the leather. Also, after I finish stitching, I run the stitching wheel over the stitches. Then also after the holster has been molded. When you put the final coat of seal on the top, that should also keep te fly-away threads at bay. If not, snap them with the diagonal pliers.

Hmm this one was a hot topic Well there's been a change of plans anyway, he wants something else instead.

lol Hmmm, never thought of that, but now that you mention it.... I loaded Inkscape the other day. I'm still working my way to see if getting to a sketch is possible on it. If so, I'll let yall know. Edit: ok, can get a tracing. Need more practice to get it as best quality as possible though

kamac welcome to the forum. You made nice, clean work of materials you had on hand. If you have questions, feel free to ask. This a friendly helpful group here

Kevin, I agree with what you said 'very few ideas are truly original anymore'. Your question reminds me of a thread that was posted in another forum. A guy received his holster from Brand X and loved it. And someone else chimed in and said 'Brand X was a knock off of Brand C so of course the pattern was good. And if they were Brand C they'd sue the dudes pants off for copyright'. This got me to thinking about how I would feel if I was either Brand X or Brand C in this situation and its really hard to say. Some other posters had good input about copyrights. And technically, an item needs to use the exact same materials and technique and be virtually identical to qualify as an infringement. But if someone used my patterns (yeah right! lol), I would at least like some credit...ie, "this one was inspired by Shorts' snap on pattern..." I was on the fence about it all though, when someone else posted a thump on the forehead about supply and demand. If customers are waiting months and months for an item from Brand C and they find a similar item from Brand X who can supply it in a matter of weeks, that buyer is well within his rights to go to Brand X to get his item. I'm not saying this excuses any possible breech by Brand X and hopefully it is at least legal if not ethical. I would liken it to the fashion world with knock-off Coach purses and whatnot I suppose there are a lot of courtesies involved here, and possibly legalities. I know I wouldn't want to do anything to cause a stir, the same as you which is why you posted. I'm pretty interested in this thread and hopefully more voices can shed some light about the proper thing to do. I've added absolutely nothing to this conversation - I think my morning coffee is finally kicking in

What weight is preferred to make a business card holder? I'd like a simple slim line folding holder. My husband travels a bit and here in JPN, business cards are an important exchange. I know he doesn't have a holder so I'd like to make him one. I need it slim line as he wears flight suits, khakis, and dress attire so light pocket carry is a must. I'll probably hand stamp his wings and name on it for a little personal touch. Thanks

Andy, thanks for posting your info. I thought that's what suede would do but never seen it or tested it myself. And I certainly wasn't going to choose my gun as the guinea pig! Was the steel you used raw? I'd like to do a little experiment with blued and parkerized pieces. Afterall blue is rust, but blued steel will still rust/pit. Parkerized is etched and coated, and absorbs oil, so it might be more durable. Ah, I'm hijacking the thread with my thinking outloud here. If I go ahead with it, I'll post the info.

I wanted to post this up: The outside are finished with Satin Sheen. The middle section is with Tan Kote. And there are my stitch lines for reference. Normally I wouldn't coat where I put the glue. This was just a "cut away" project purely for reference on what the products finish like.

Srigs, I've noticed the marbling effect with these EcoFlo dyes too. It seems that some marbling will always show through, but the effect can be reduced, if desired, by applying more dye to saturate the leather to a larger extent.