Leerwerker

Recently just wanted to do one of those "no-rules-doodle-to-your-heart's-content" exercises.

Dr Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator is also a very good one to use - close to the old original Dubbin ...

I recently asked the following questions of the Leather Chemists of America and with each I am also giving you the answer I received ... Q1) When vegtan leather turns darker in light, does that mean the leather is getting oxidized? A1. No the leather is not oxidizing, the tannins are. The veg. tannins are what give the leather its stability, color and much of its leather character. They are polyphenolic compounds (in most cases), so they are subject to chemical change such as oxidation, espcially in the presents of light, oxidizers (such as permanganate or peroxide) and air (oxygen). The changes depend a great deal upon the type of tannins, moisture, temp., other materials present, etc. Q2) I have some vegtan that have been bleached bone white in the sun, and the moment I bring water in contact with the leather, it gets back its nice honey colored brown darker color. What is happening? A2. Not sure what is happening here. The color changes suggest that there is a unique tannin present or some residual bleaching agent, etc. Clearly the moisture content is exerting the controlling influence, but that is not terribly uncommon, though odd for simple veg. tanned hides. Perhaps this is Tara tannin? Any idea? What is unique about this leather, ie source, character, properties??? Q3) I use some Potassium Permanganate in water to 'paint' on leather - it has the same effect as a dye, but you can have a lot of control over how much you want to oxidize the leather and how dark you want it to be. Does this drastically change the pH of the leather? Or harm it in a irreversible way? A3. Permanganate is a strong oxidizer. It will start with the tannins which oxidize easily, but then move on to destroy oils, carbs, protein and more. Just like a woman bleaching her hair until it falls out, it would be pretty easy to do permanent harm, but it all boils down to how much, how strong, how warm, etc. This is not likely to change the pH, but certainly will change some other more serious chemistry. Q4) A customer of mine wants to bring in a pair of saddle bags he has soaked in kerosene to 'clean'. I am a but horrified to think about this, but maybe I am all wrong and this is a tried method of cleaning leather? Can you help - the chemistry of it all seems wrong, but I do not have the necessary knowledge to judge ... A4. Kerosene should clean out oils and grease for sure. But then how to clean out the awful smell of the kerosene??? Obviously working with highly combustible organic solvents such as kerosene has some serious risks and concerns, though the use of kerosene in the old days was probably much greater than any of us can imagine, plus many solvents very similar to kerosene but with different names are still in use in places. You do not say what the guy wants you to do with the leather. Remove the kerosene? Liability would be pretty great for any recommendation that we might make here, but clearly the answer would lie in using a lighter solvent that would evaporate more rapidly and completely than the kerosene. Obviously these types of solvents could have even greater flammability and inhalation risks. The big question then is whether you feel safe with your knowledge and skill level to tackle such a task. It is also noteworth that the leather is going to be bone dry after these treatments and need to be re-lubricated or fatliquored.

Wow, Jim, I am very impressed with that tooling and color! Talk about rich ...!

I wind the lace over a wide piece of masonite - I use kangaroo lace, so I need to strip off the finish with deglaser before I dye it. The hardboard backing gives me something to rub against with the deglazer. It is also easy then to dye the lace with a dauber. I'll try to remember to take some pics when I do it again!

The work on the inside of the belts is such a waste! Peter, what are you thinking! Hiding such nice work against some sweaty old belly! Rather make the belts twice the width and put that incredible work on the outside too!

This is very important, Art! I have heard quite a few horror stories of people bring their saddles (that had been soaked in oil) to saddlemakers to 'fix'. The leather chemists also advised, not only to use oil sparingly, but avoid mineral oil and stick to plant or animal oils only. [Question here: if that is true, why do people use the neatsfoot oil compound instead of the pure???]

Dr Jacksons hide rejuvenator is my choice - it has all the fats and oils and beeswax to seal your leather and depending on the leather, it can even get the feel of an oil-tan. The acrylic finishes like super sheen can wear off, but stay a long time. The natural creams, like skidmore and dr jackson's need to be applied every six months or so, depending on how you use the leather and how dry it gets. Always educate the people you make leather articles for that they should continue to feed and care for the leather. Most people do not know this and only realize when it is too late and their leather is dry and brittle... Hope that helps.

Deglazer is acetone...

Yes, Minnesota - I'll get you the city as soon as I can ...

Hi everybody, I was contacted by the widow of a customer who passed away at Thanksgiving ... The accompanying photos are of the equipment in his workshop that she is looking to get rid of. I have no idea what most of the stuff is or what it is worth. I can only ask in the light of common humanity that you give her a fair deal. Here are the relevant extracts of the emails she sent me: "His shop is full. I missed taking another photo of the leather and lining materials. He took good care of his equipment and knew how to service anything. Many of the tanning machine he made. His background is woodworking teacher with electrical engineering education. There is so much and so many specialized items. I am a childcare provider during the day and am home. I am able to take a phone call in the midst of caring for the children if anyone is interested. Vickie Nelson 218-631-4519"

One way is to give the leather first a good coating of the Cranberry red dye - and then black - without having experimented, that's what I would try ...

Just be very careful with oil and leather - you can apply it quite liberal with a paint brush, but NEVER dunk it. Ask the saddle makers - someone walks into their shop with a 'rescued' saddle that they dunked in oil, they just get shown the door again... Too much oil will deteriorate the strength of the leather - the fibers have nothing to hold onto ... Also, you can use any oil from animal or plant origin, but NEVER a mineral oil (I know neatsfoot compound has some mineral oils in, but my advice comes from the Leather Chemists of America). I hope this helps!

You better buy up some Neatlac quick, HideP ... it is already mostly not available in pints - most Tandy's only have it in some left over gallons ...

This photo was sent to me from a guy I sent leather to - he is in a prison. I just thought it was so well made that it needed to be displayed!

There is a little of it still available at some Tandy Stores. When I cover large surfaces, I first of all believe you have to dye the leather first. (X-1 is NOT a dye) And then you apply it fast and wipe off the excess fast. When I cover small pieces of tooling, no dye is needed first and then I just apply the X-1 with a thin brush and I do not wipe off the excess - I just put it on in a thin layer to highlight the tooling. Can anybody find out a recipe for us so that we can make our own????

It looks like you had a good teacher - and now you are getting better than him .... Very, Very nice work!

Also, dye will not give you a finish, at all. After most dyes, the leather will be very dull. Just see what happens once you apply Dr Jackson's or Aussie or Dubbin over the dye! Magic! That is when the water and dye dried leather gets its new life and the oils are being put back ...

Fiebing's Pro Oil Dyes can be thinned with rubbing alcohol. It is still a spirit based dye, made with better chemicals and with a little bit of oil added - so little you will not even notice it ... Hope this helps!

BLIKSEM!!! That is nice work!!! JOhan

Well, Now the handles are attached to the bag - yes it is a bag I am designing as I proceed (I had the basic idea when I started). Quilting supplies? NO, not when I am using it ... but it is an all purpose carry bag that will have interchangeable interiors. If I want to carry my braiding supplies, I will just lift out the personal compartments and insert the braiding box! And Whatever else I may find a need for ... I used the new braided cord to stitch the handles and thought the lighter color will give a nice contrast, but it looks a bit like dirty white thread to me now. So The rest of the bag will be stitched with a nice red brown thread in the same threads. Tandy really has a winner with these waxed braided threads.

Ken, is there an item code or number on that book? I am trying to get hold of a copy ....

Hi everybody! I found these two animals made from leather and I know there are more of them around. Does anybody have any patterns for this type of small leather animal? I know there is an eagle like this and also reindeer ... I tried searching the forum to no avail.

I NEVER cut against a straight edge - inviting trouble, that is ... I use a scratch awl to mark the cut lines against a straight edge - the focus of the action is downward and only ever so slightly against the steel - very fewer mistakes. And if the steel slips (which will not happen often if you coat the underside with contact adhesive) there is not a whole piece of wasted leather because of the off-the-line cut. After the lines are marked, I cut them freehand and a slower speed is the answer to accuracy! For all but the thickest leather, I like a small craft knife with break off blades (always sharp and you can hold it like a pen for added accuracy). Now you do not have to focus on BOTH keeping the steel ruler down and making the cut - voila! fewer slip=ups! Hope this helps!

On a mailing list I once said that decorative carving is just to cover up bad tooling ...!! Wow, what strong reaction I got!!! Just imagine - the sacrilege! I any case, someone sent me photos of Rick Bean's work - a saddle largely decorated with swivel knife cuts, of course! Enjoy!