King's X

I'm good either way. It is for my collection anyways. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum.

I believe the cross bar to balance your clicker (upper) plate can be seen in the picture attached. There is too much play with that much distance of travel. Take a look at the picture.

Welcome to the forum. I have purchased from both. I really like the service at Springfield, but I am a touchy feely kind of guy, so I like to see what I am buying. Sometime with regrets, but this is just a hobby for me. Good luck.

Thanks Bruce....I wasn't sure....I almost listed Bob Beard until I checked his catalog and found out that he didn't make them either.

I would say that Bob Douglas and Ron's tools are probably at the top of the food chain. I cannot afford neither, so I stick to the middle of the road like Barry King edgers. http://www.ronstools.com/edgers.pdf http://www.barrykingtools.com/edgers.htm

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum......If I may make a suggestion (it worked for me)....sit back, relax and take a look around all of the subject areas around here. You will learn more from this research than from the number of responses from this one thread. Just my opinion.

You know, I would have to dig it out of storage. I only have one left, but I am sure you can make your own patterns and adjust the snap loops as needed. It has been some time that I do not even know which one I have left. I believe it is the one with the bottle?

Welcome to the forum and greetings from Central Texas!

Welcome to the forum and greetings from Central Texas! Nice work....thanks for sharing!

Welcome to the forum and greetings from Central Texas!

I do not know what type of leather lessons you are look for so I will throw some information up for you. There are no classes during that time in the area. I would suggest maybe some private lessons with varies artists near your locations. For the SF area, I would suggest contacting Bruce Johnson, Cathy Schlim nearby or to the south of SF, Jeremiah Watt or Al Gould. These individuals are top notch with many years of experience in the field of leather. If they are not available, they might be able to direct you to others in the area. In LA, I would contact Standing Bear Trading Post in Van Nuys. Wayne and Sandi should be able to help you. There are many great artists in this area. Finally, in Las Vegas, I would contact Tim at Tanglefoot Traders Leather company for help in this region. As for Mr. Cary, I would highly recommend him, but I believe he is out of your way. I know that I missed some great artists and resources in the areas you mentioned, but it is still too early in the day to remember plus I am getting old. Good luck and safe travels!

Sidney....I moved late last year, so I understand your position. I am sending you an email. Thanks for posting this stuff.

Give Cobra Steve at Leather Sewing Machines a call. He is an ad sponsor on here. he has a nice clicker for any busy shop. There is also a smaller clicker option through Tippman Industries.

There has been lengthy discussion on edges. Check out the 'How to' section for Mr. Bob Parks recipe for obtaining great edges. Gum Trag to my knowledge will not turn your edges black. Dye will turn your edges any color you want them to be. The Gum Trag allows you to 'burnish' your edges to a lightly brown color (depending on your leather) and smooth with a hint of a gloss look. Now, I haven't used Gum Trag in several years, but if I remember correctly, you have to dye your edges first and then do your magic with the Gum Trag. Again, if I remember correctly, there might be some penetration issues if you try to dye on top of the Gum Trag. Now, I did a product review last year on my blog for a new item that Sheridan Outfitters is selling call "Quik Slik" that is easy to use and you can dye before or after application. For about $5 bucks, it is especially helpful for those that do leathercraft as a hobby and do not have the room or equipment to work their edges like the big leather guys. Since the product is new I cannot provide you any information on any long term issues, if any, but I am sure that Luke and Vandy would not have put out a product like this without some R&D. I hope this information helps!

Yes, I agree....very nice work!

Very nice job! Thanks for sharing...

Straight and angled. Thanks.

Calvin....if you have one left I will take it. Do you mind bringing it to the next guild meeting for COD? Let me know.

Have you tried Joseph Dixon Tools in the UK? Bob Douglas through Sheridan Outfitters in Wyoming has probably the sharpest that I have seen to date. Sheridan Outfitters is a sponsor on this forum. You can also try Barry King Tools Good luck and welcome to the forum!

Welcome to the forum! Sit back and enjoy the site. Don't worry about your English.

Even though your point is polished, I would have to agree and advise you to re-sharpen your knife. Here is something to consider.....If your leather is wet or cased properly and your knife is sharp....it will not stop from cutting it. Even most of the leather from Tandy that I use.

Always leave a border. I usually leave anywhere from 3/4" to 1". You will trim this part after your mold is done.