King's X

Check Van Amburg Leather

Just wondering if you have considered placing a hole at the bottom so someone can insert their finger and expose a bit of the phone to grab it from the top? I did it to both of my smartphone belt cases and it sure helps! Thanks.

Welcome to the site.....that is what this site is all about.....sharing!

How do you remove the phone? Does it come out pretty easy?

As Tina suggested. I would check out the Al Stohlman books. One that is still pulled from my library is the 'Leather Manual.' It covers everything from what is leather to finishing. In between is carving and stamping basics. He also wrote a larger book on how to carve leather. If you are into specific styles of tooling or stamping....let us know and may be I can direct you to a specific book.

I have been doing like Dirtclod for a couple of years and reapply the green rouge until it is fully covered. It has worked just fine with no issues that I am aware of.

Google books also had a free book on drawing acanthus. I have read it and it is pretty good.

Welcome to the forum! This site is great for learning just about everything you need for leather craft. If you get stuck you can always look me up for free. I love the craft and enjoy sharing what I have learned. Good luck and thank you for your service!

Weaver carries a nice bench top model for about a grand. Tippmann sells one as well. Are your looking for a pneumatic model? Thought about a manual clicker? Even with an air option, you will spend much less. Just throwing it out there.

Welcome to the forum Bastiaan! Please do not forget to show off your work here. I am sure that we can learn something from your work and experience.

The ceramic blade can be resharpened and with rouge it can be cleaned up and polished. I have owned 3 ceramic blades and one fell and a chip was the result. With green rouge which has a valued of 8000 grit will most likely polish your blade tip to include a ceramic blade. As Chief mentioned, you want to strop your blade if for any reason to remove any residue off the tip to allow more ease of the blade when cutting into leather.

Try a thinned oil tan, split suede or even chrome tan. They will provide more flexibility for transportation & space. Also, try and Google the product to see what you got yourself into here.

Will have to be on my 'to do' list for my next trip to CA. I really like visiting leather shops.....Thanks for sharing!

Looks really nice. Great job!

Welcome to the forum!

Call Luke or Vandy at Sheridan Outfitters in Wyoming.

Welcome to the forum Nico!

Very nice holsters. Welcome to the forum Ran!

Welcome to the forum!

Marlon....I saw George make up the demo plate during the open house. I guess it is my age! Do you know if there is another class scheduled?

I recently completed my manual clicker press using a Harbor Freight seal press model. I ended up using two 3/8" steel plates that measured 12" x 15" as my base. I then purchased a 1.5" plastic clicker plate from Tandy Leather Factory. Here is a picture of the PDF instructions that I used. I believe I got them off of LW. I tried to post a picture of the clicker, but for some reason, I am not too savvy with this new format. You can see it on my Facebook page or my BlogSpot in about a week. Hydraulic_Cutting_Press_ShoeSchool.pdf

I use a Mulesfoot like DC, but I have also used a Veiner to make scales.

Welcome to the forum AdamK. Don't forget to share photos of your prized work....

I can't believe I missed this class......where was I at? In space probably. Looks great Marlon!

Give these suppliers a try......http://www.hardwareelf.com/elf/index.jsp