dikman

I follow your you-tube channel so watched it the other day and I was impressed at the fine detail you got, not easy with sand-casting. For tin-casting you might be able to get away with making the mold from silicon, it would allow for repeat casting and give very fine detail. As an aside after watching your episode about the Vevor press I just had to buy one - I don't really need it (yet) but it's a solid bit of engineering!! Keep the vids coming, they're always good to watch.

Yep - much to my wife's dismay. Whenever she goes through her clean-up phase she says "is all that necessary?". I'm currently melting aluminium to make it useable in a lathe (casting cylindrical shapes and some square bar stock), next is brass and copper scrap. The foundry/furnace was built from scrounged material, as was the burner, the only thing I bought was the hi-temp lining. And not a 3D part to be seen! (Sorry kgg).

Very neat setup. Lots of 3D printing (as usual with any project you do ) which gives you an advantage over the rest of us mere mortals when making custom fittings. The clear box is a good idea, I might pinch the idea for when I'm powdercoating small items - my cardboard box booth has fallen apart.

Very impressive work.

Very nice work on the sheath. That's a complex bit of pattern-welding on the knife.

Given it's age, and the fact that the link doesn't work, I reckon this thread should be removed completely as it doesn't serve any purpose?

I'm guessing that "high car" refers to high carbon steel? As for 8B - .

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/461567/Adler-30.html https://www.supsew.com/wpfb-file/adler-30-instruction-manual-pdf/ Might be the same thing, I haven't looked to see.

Some videos I found show that it's a clone of the later model Pfaff 335. The feet etc would be Pfaff parts, which are different to Singer, which will not fit your machine. Search for Pfaff 335 parts.

Fascinating. The foundry work, mold-making and casting was particularly interesting, thanks Constabulary.

I agree with fred, burnishing by definition is polishing usually involving hard rubbing.

You CAN use round-point needles on leather, on thin leather it should be fine.

I stitch after gluing, then wet-form, sand the edges if needed to follow the stitching, bevel the edges then colour if necessary and burnish. The only "criticism" I can make is you're a bit heavy with the pear shader - I had the same problem on my first effort, so I know all about it! Other than that it looks good.

Yeah, a nice whimsical touch.

From my observations industrial sewing machines are a pretty specialised area (sort of like a niche market) with not too many dealers so the chances of getting a sale on them is probably pretty slim. The only way to get a reduced price is to find a used one.

As an aside, due to the (ridiculously) high cost of tobacco here - due to government taxes - the sale of legal tobacco is falling dramatically (and the government tax intake) BUT illegal sales are booming! Funny that. Not having made tobacco pouches (nor being a smoker) it never occurred to me that they would need a waterproof lining.

#4 suggests it automatically lifts the foot when you stop stitching. #2 whatever it does when in the down position it's off. Whatever #1 and #2 do screws 4 and 5 adjust the speed.

All I've ever used is beeswax.

Might only use four stamps but it looks like a fair bit of work went into it.

You may find you don't need the NP. I bought one 'cos it sounded like a good idea but I don't really like it so don't use it. I find a servo and speed reducer combination is more than adequate for my needs.

The 3200 is an excellent machine and would be ideal for holsters and gunbelts but wallets could be a problem. An upholstery-class machine, which generally has 3/8" under the feet, is a good all-round machine - as long as you don't want to sew holsters and gunbelts. Have you read the sticky by Wiz about leather sewing machines? It's at the top of this section.

You've been a busy boy!!

I don't recall having any problem removing the pulley, but because the bearing comes with it the shaft is left floating in the air! It's obviously not considered a particularly brilliant idea because I'm not aware of any other machines that are made that way.

Yes, you are definitely getting better! Excellent work.

BLO could be a problem as it can remain tacky. Using it on wood works because it can be hard burnished to give a smooth finish. It is a traditional finish on rifle stocks but requires multiple coats and a lot of hand-rubbing. Tung oil is another similar product but I'm not sure how effective it would be on leather.