Chief31794

I play a 1974 D-28 that I've had since 1974. Course I don't get to play it as much as I used to, mostly I play Dobro these days, I only play Bass or Guitar if the Bass player or guitar player are sick or incarcerated. Chief

Very nice, good looking Martin too. Chief

Thanks Cheryl, nice of you to say.

Thanks Rohn, Thanks Bob, Ken

These are a little different than Guitar Straps. This one the customer provided the buckle set, it is a Vogt Sterling Silver Buckle Set. The strap is two layers of 4/5 oz Hermann Oak and the front and rear straps are 7/8 oz Herman Oak. It was dyed with Fiebing's Pro Oil Black, conditioned with Fiebing's Aussie conditioner and finished with two coats of Resolene (50/50). Chief

I wear a Glock 19 every day on a single ply belt, the belt is about 6 years old and doesn't give or show signs of wear. So my answer is yes a normal belt is plenty, however, a lot of customers are convinced they need the extra heft, so I sell it to them. I never argue. If it were a Ruger .44 Mag with 10-1/2" barrel then maybe you would need something more, but who'd want to wear that "Hawg" every day or any day. Many customers think that a double belt should only cost twice as much, nope!!! You got gluing, sewing, not to mention when I do them, the bottom blank is 2" which I contact cement to the 1-1/2" blank then trim to width. Personally, I don't like the feel of the laminated belts, they are too stiff and bulky for my taste. I think the idea behind the double belt comes from customers buying a 1911 or such, putting the holster on a Walmart Belt then when it wears out in about 10 minutes (just an estimate), they are convinced they need double to prevent that. That's just my opinion, I could be wrong, that happens a lot more lately. Chief

I may catch some flack but I don't normally make mine "Double" thickness. I make them two ways, one is I use a normal thickness cut from a belt bend which is normally 9/10 oz and then laminate a 4/5 ounce to that, I then skive the end just as I would a single layer belt before I stitch the belt or I laminate two 6/7 oz strips, when I do that I stop the second layer at the same place I would normally skive then feather it with a hand skiver. I don't have a preference both are very strong and very durable and look about the same once they are glued and sewn. Chief

I don't have concerns about it warping or distorting. If it is around long enough to warp or distort, it would do so whether I had strapped it out or left it attached to the Shoulder or Belt Bend. It's never been a problem. Chief

I do multiple projects as well. Also, I cut extra from time to time, for example Rifle Slings are 2-1/4" wide tapering down to 1", If I cut one, I use a 2-1/2" strap because I like to keep my belt bend or double shoulder with a straight edge. I can cut a strap 4" wide and cut two rifle slings by reversing one so the tapers are reversed. I save 1/3 sq ft and I sell about 40 rifles slings a year so I save nearly 7 sq ft of leather over the year. That's just one example, but I will normally cut multiples to prevent wasting leather, I might then only make one, but the next time I have an order for one, I already have it cut. Wallet backs are a good example, I'll cut a strap 3-1/4" wide, then use a t-square and cut the length 9-1/4" and get as many as I can from that strap, then I don't have to cut out any more wallet backs until I sell those. a 50" strap yields about 5 wallets, the remainder I use for smaller items or test scraps. Just the way I've always done it, I don't like to cut one wallet back from a side, etc. If I have multiple orders, I'll work on several at once, making use of drying time on one to get assembly or carving done on another, etc. To answer your original question, I do not make additional holsters, if I have orders for more than one, then I will make them at the same time using drying periods etc, but I make each holster custom, I don't use blueguns and don't keep patterns, I only make holsters for local customers and I require the weapon for 2-3 days while making the holster. So I don't make or cut up a bunch of these. I don't save the patterns, each one is drawn, cut, used then discarded. Chief

Shipped these two mandolin straps this week to Va and NC. Chief

Rohn, I do line most of them, this one is lined, and when I line them I normally use pigskin splits. Thanks, Chief

I use Aussie on the front and back, heat it till it liquifies, then wipe off the excess and the strap very supple. I used lighter leather until I found this stuff. I make a lot at 6/7 but I've changed over to the heavier. It really drapes well on the shoulder. Chief

Thanks Cheryl, you're too nice. Thanks, the guitar strap is made form 9/10 ounce Hermann Oak, the Back piece is split to ~ 6 oz and the front area where the button hole is is skived to ~ 6 oz to make them attach better an easier. Thanks, Chief

Here's a few from the last couple of weeks. Chief

Made this for a customer, Ruger .44 Mag 10-1/2" barrel. The holster is 7/8 oz laminated together for a total of 14/16 oz. The thing goes past my knee when wearing on a belt, hope he ain't thinkin' about no fast draw, you got to get it up nearly to your shoulder to get it clear of the leather. Oh well, I suggested a cross draw but he wanted a western style. Chief

I had one, it worked, required quite a bit of adjustment to keep it running smooth. My main complaint is that it's hard to guide some items with one hand while pulling the lever with the other. There are 441 clones advertised here for just a little more than a Boss and they are well worth the little bit extra. That being said, it works, I made quite a few items with it. Chief

I have to disagree with this, X2 on NVLeatherWorx comments. Sewing a bag or cutting a strip of leather off of a bend does not make a leather worker. Just my $.02 worth. Chief

BlackRiverLaser.com makes the same tool in acrylic, but it measures in oz (64th of an inch) called a handy guage. I have several of them and use them all the time. Great tool. Chief

I prefer to laminate two layers of leather together flesh side to flesh side to get thicker than 10/12. Two 10's glued together and then stitched will give you the 20 oz size, but will be much stronger than a single layer of 20oz. Chief

Michelle, I found a "jeweler's Flat Tip screw driver" that fits the eye really snug without damaging the eye. I insert the blade in the eye lightly then turn the end of the screw driver until it is perfectly aligned. I would rather find a plastic one and have been on the lookout, any thing with a flat surface the size of the eye and with an end you can use as an indicator and to adjust as necessary, hope that helps, if I get a chance in the next couple of days, I'll take a picture of it. Thanks, Chief

Thanks, Thanks Wild Bill. I get my leather from Springfield Leather Company, thanks. Chief

Thanks Pete. Chief

Thanks eglideride, Two things, 1) it matters which way you pull the tape (which direction), I start a corner and if it's pulling, I go to the other end. 2) it matters what leather you use, I always use Hermann Oak and the back is pretty clean and smooth to begin with. If you have one that is "fuzzed", then you can sand it lightly, going only in the direction the fibers lay and finally you could dampen it lightly and burnish it with a burnishing glass. I use one a lot for smoothing leather. Hope that helps, Chief

I've done a few of these with the laser sight and by their design they have to fit a little loose, if not there is a danger of turning the sight on when holstering the weapon and you can sew in under the trigger housing because the area is filled. I always recommend a retention strap regardless, this customer asked for them before I suggested them. Chief

Tom, I don't remember the model, they were 9MM. I wouldn't have a problem sharing the patterns, but I don't keep them, I make a new one for each holster and throw them away when the job ships. Sorry, Chief