Chief31794

Looks like you're busy Rohn. First class looking holsters, I love the color. Chief

Michael, Not a problem, I started doing that because I'm thrifty (Think Cheap!!!). Cutting a solid strap with a head like that produces a lot of waste. I use Hermann Oak Single Belt Bends, so I cut a 2.5" piece for the main strap and a 1" piece that will make about three back straps. I cut a 2" X 1.5" piece for the keeper from the cutoff end of the 2.5" main strap, if I cut it out solid I would have to cut a 2.5" strip and a 2" strip. Saves a lot of leather over time and is easier to cut. Sorry to ramble, anyway "Steal away" my friend. Chief

Thanks, Chief

X2 on block dying. That's how I think they did it. Chief

I don't line belts per se, I make double layered belts, two leather pieces glued together back to back and then sewn around the edge. Many people like these for "Carry Belts" when carrying heavy pistols. Sometimes it's done to give the back a "finished" look, but bottom line is that it will be a stronger and more rigid belt with two layers even if the thickness remains the same (ie., 2 4/5 oz layers as opposed to one 8/10 oz layer). Just my $.02 worth, Chief

I've got a belt sander but I got a oscillating drum sander a while back from Harbor Freight and I use it 95% of the time now, quick change for different diameter drums and it does a great job on straight or curved edges including inside curves. I did cover the table with shelf paper which I do with my drill press and some other machines to prevent metal oxidation from getting on the leather. Chief

Shoulder holsters aren't as popular as they once were, I think because of relaxed attire in the work place, not many folks wear coats and ties anymore. I've only had one ordered in the last several years. It was for a Taurus PT 709 Slim with a magazine holder under the right arm. Chief

Thanks everyone, Halitech I sent you a PM. Chief

Getting ready for a Bluegrass Festival in September, so all of these except the personalized one are for stock to sell at the festival. The other is going to Indiana. Hadn't seen many Banjo and Mandolin straps out here, thought someone might be interested in how they are made. Little different than a guitar strap. Chief

Any concerns about marks on the leather? I cut my nails before a carving job, I would think that Kevlar or chain mail could leave some serious marks on damp leather and I only cut leather while it's damp so that the edges are smooth. I'm 65 and haven't bled to death yet, I'll just keep being as careful as possible and maintaining my 1st aid kit for when the occasional accident happens. Chief

I'm never as lucky as JLSLeather, my Tandy Manager is knowledgeable, normally free for lunch, etc. However, if I'm not mistaken, he learned his leatherworking in the Prison Leather Shop, so I just go in there to see if anything is new and don't bother with the whole lunch thing. One other note though, my Tandy bill stays quite low! LOL Chief

Tandy is what Tandy is. Fact is most of us wouldn't be doing leather work if it weren't for Tandy. They have some things that are okay and hard to find anywhere else. I don't buy leather from them, but I do buy a few odd tools from time-to-time. I buy most of my stamps and all of my edgers, swivel knives and blades from Barry King, although I have a couple of the new pro line stamps from Tandy and I have quite a few old Tandy stamps, but I don't use them much, however, they are handy when I need them. Bottom line, it's not a "Sin" to buy from Tandy, however, there are better tools, leather and hardware elsewhere. Just my $.02 worth. Chief

It looks like Art is pretty accurate on the dates, I would estimate late 1800's based on some mule harnesses and other rigging I've seen. It's typical of the type of hand work that was done then, but like the other two, it's just a guess. Chief

Oldtoolsniper, Thanks, I agree, a lot of folks do lacing and don't think about it much, they put a lot of time in the carvings, decorations, etc., and then just slap on the lace. When I talk about lacing I refer to it as "Part of the Art", it should look good, be solid (construction), and compliment the other work on the piece. Thanks, MikeG, Thanks, I need to start leaving the cards out where the whole saying can be seen, you're right they might drive customers off, come to think about it, some of the stuff I make might be in the category of "ugly leather", it could be a good marketing ploy. LOL I can't get my quote buttons to work all of a sudden, I may have to take this old computer out and shoot it!!! Chief

Good comments already, if you're based in the US (Can't tell from your screen name info), then I would use 5/6 oz leather for a folding knife sheath, 4/5 would work as well, anything thinner I think would be too flimsy, anything over 6 and it starts getting too rigid. Thread you can get from Tandy, or Springfield Leather Company or several other Leather Craft suppliers, I would stay with waxed thread for convenience, get a couple of harness needles, a stitching Awl, a Stitch Spacer in probably 6 SPI, a snap setter and some Line 20 Snaps, a good utility knife and you should be able to make all the cases you want. I've probably forgotten something, perhaps others will chime in. Welcome to the forum and the addiction, Chief

Thanks Bob. Chief

Very nice. Chief

I've been wanting to work with exotic skins some and finally got a chance to put something out. I really like the exotics. This is Caiman Skin laminated onto some 2/3 oz Hermann Oak, the interior is lined with Faille Cloth and the pockets are made from pigskin. The lacing is Kangaroo. Chief

Wade, Neither are really nice, get some Hermann Oak ©, the back is very tight and smooth. These look like they may have come from Tandy. Springfield Leather Company sells Hermann Oak by the sq ft in as little as 2 sq ft sections. It looks like these may be for a belt, if you want leather for a belt, you can buy Hermann Oak (HO) Straps (1-1/2", 1-1/4" or whatever width you want), if you are going to make several you can purchase a HO Single Belt Bend from SLC. If it's for a belt I would get 9/10 oz belt bend, if you want to buy the strap already cut it will be a 8/10 oz thickness. Hope this helps, the picture below shows how a HO backside looks, I don't have a picture of just the backside, but I think this shows it pretty well. Chief

I use Fiebings, Angelus and Tandy, never had a problem with Tandy Antique Gels, or any of the others. I don't like Tandy tools, but their new line of Professional Water Stains and their Antique Gels are pretty good in my opinion. Sorry, I didn't answer all your questions in the first reply. I used Clear Lac on this, I use Resolene (50/50) or Clear Lac most of the time. I also use Aussie quite a bit as a conditioner if I want a soft pliable feel to the item, I don't think I used it on this, I normally use it more on Instrument straps that need to drape well and feel soft over the shoulder. Thanks, Chief

Thanks, I buy belt bends and cut the belts from them, they are Hermann Oak and come from Springfield Leather Company. The buckles are available at Springfield Leather Company as well, I skive the buckle portion about 4oz worth, then take a piece of 3/4 ounce leather punch a hole for the hook to come through and one for a rivet, I skive the rear edge so that it meets with the skive taper on the belt, glue it in with Master's Contact Cement (you guessed it, SLC), then stitch it in by hand. The dye is not from SLC, it is Tandy's Dark Brown Antique Gel. I put the buckle on the smooth side of the leather piece so that when it's glued in it looks like the rest of the back of the belt, I dress it on a Oscillating Spindle Sander to make it look smooth and seamless. Here's a picture of what the buckle looks like, I haven't looked at Ohio Travel Bag, but they probably carry them also. I also added a picture of the backside, the loop is stitched into the seam for the buckle. Thanks, Chief

I started making these Mechanic's Belts for Musicians and they seem to be pretty popular. The capo case is for a Charlie's Slide Pro Capo which is selling well around the country and I have been making quite a few of them because a dobro capo wont mount on the head stock or much of any where else like a guitar or banjo capo will. Anyway here tis'. Chief

Looks really good, nice job. Chief

Mine normally involve Belt Keepers (I call them Belt Loops), I'll get the belt completed, stained, finished, ready to assemble and remember that I didn't dye and finish a belt loop. Doh!!! So I have this sign hanging on the wall above my dye table. Chief

Here's another Mandolin Strap, this one will go on an A-Style Mandolin in North Carolina. Chief