rickdroid

Possibly you can make one using a good drawing. Go to Google and type in "line drawing masonic emblem" This should give you lots of drawings that you can pick from to transfer to some type of transfer medium. Hope this helps some. rick

I you have access to the HiPoint check the measurements against this gun. https://bersa.eagleimportsinc.com/bersa/thunder-pro-ultra-compact-9mm If you think that it is close enough to work I can loan you a bluegun of the Bersa. rick

Thats really wild. Looks like some things I have seen from Thailand. Where did you get your idea/inspiration? rick

Thank you very much. rick

The knife shown on the left of the facebook page is a common skiving knife available through goodsjapan. I paid about $40.00 for mine. It is not a custom made knife. It actually is a pretty good knife for skiving. It is not as clunky as the pictures suggest. It holds an edge ok and is easy to sharpen. rick

How about a picture?

Call Shayne at 512-836-0416. His shop www.firemelonusa.com is located in Austin. I believe he has the ability to do what you wish, if he has the time. rick

I've got a Tandy jig for sharpening swivel knives, if you care to borrow it PM me with a mailing address and I can get it in the mail in a couple of days.

Havent heard of it, who is the source?

That is really nice. I like the red/black and the cross, the way you cut is is great. What is the insert? Interesting pattern.

Why don't you join "Trolls Are Us" and take your little hate game there. Really don't need your brand of sickness here.

Thought this link might be useful sometime. http://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/files/what-is-a-file

You are actually better off using the Google search engine. On Google use site:leatherworker.net hand of god site simply tells google to restrict the search to the leatherworker.net site. Good luck rick

Yeah, I also use his beveling tools and they are great, not to mention beautiful. His awl hafts are the same way and i really like the awl blades also. He makes quality tools that also happen to be art. Thanks Barry. rick

Got my package this afternoon. Thanks Jeff, I certainly got my moneys worth. Now I've got to come up with ways to use it. Not a bad problem I guess. Thanks. Rick

Congratulations! Well deserved.

Nice, could you post a pic ot the back also? rick

I have a similar problem with my hands, getting old has some good things and some lousey ones don't it. Any how, consider going to a doctor that does pain management. The one that I use mixes up a prescription cream that I use on my hands that really helps. Not saying that it stops all of the pain but sure makes a big difference, stops the cramps and allows me to perform hand sewing. Now if he could only mix up something that made my sewing better. Rick

PM sent

I lust for that black one. Really nice work.

Very nice work, you did it right. Congratulations.

Kulafarmer, I have never use water. Never thought of it. Art what is the texture of the Formex Micro-Fine? Is it a hard dry block, or does it have a waxy quality? How hard is it to apply to the stop? How much is enough? Do you just make a few lines on the strop, do you try to cover the surface or is the right amount somewhere in between? Thanks Rick

I am very happy with what I have learned. Compounds have confused me for a long time and this really helps and now I also have a reputable supplier to purchase from. Thanks for the video info, will certainly give them a look. I second the thanks to Art. Take care yourself.

Thanks Art, this helps quite a bit. I've got another question that might be best addressed in a new topic for ease of someone finding the topic. Let me know if you would like me to move it. I don't have a leather splitter but I have reduced leather quite successfully using a low angel block plane. I originally saw Ian Atkinson on You Tube using a razor blade block plane to skive some of his work. I tried one but there is no adjustment on that type of plane and the razor blades need to be sharpened out of the box so I decided to go with a good quality box plane. I have the blade as sharp as any of my razor knives and it works quite well but I was wondering if placing a back bevel on the blade might produce better results. I have never understood the reasoning for the back bevel so do you have any thoughts on this. Thanks again Rick

I want to make it clear that I am not arguing with anyone on this thread just in case I make a statement that might seem that way. So if I say something that seems to be rude I apologize. Certainly not my intention. "The composition, effect, and packaging of buffing compounds is really all over the board and has been for years. " Yeah, my exact problem and the reason for beginning this thread. "When you are talking the compounds on your list, these are meant to be used on buffers, not strops." Understood but unfortunately I don't have a buffer, unless you consider a Dremel a buffer, and have to do all of my finishing work with a strop. Figuring which compound is usable without a buffer is another one of those questions that I would like to find an answer for. "Fore working with tools, you use stones, and you strop. For stropping, you just need something fine enough to polish an edge, 3 micron diamond paste will work fine, but I use .5 micron green compound from Formax." I use a DMT 3 micron stone as my finishing stone, then use a compound of the same or possibly a slightly larger size as a strop aid; unsure on this point because I don't know the size of the compounds that I am using. I know that using the strop polishes the edge and makes the tool apparently sharper. I say apparently because I don't know if the blade is actually sharper or just seems so from the effect of the polished edge. I do know, at least from my perspective, that the blade sure feels sharper. "If you use a small jeweler's buffer, you can use the red jeweler's rouge to buff and color any of the soft metals like brass, gold, and silver (including nickle silver which is basically brass). " I use red as my next to last step trying to achieve a high polish on the edge then I finish on a bare strop. I have been told more than once that I am wasting my time using bare leather but I disagree. "You might see white compound also, it is .25 micron and in my opinion too fine for stropping." Here is one of those cases where information seems to be inconsistent. King's X says that he uses white followed by green. Is he using some other supplier who makes his green finer than his white, or does the term 'rouge' when used with green indicate some kind of difference that changes which color to use. King's X, care to jump back in here and set me straight? Also, that reference card that I posted also shows white as being coarser than green from that manufacturer. This is a really confusing subject.