Sheilajeanne

Ookay, I see now you could be right! And the posters sig picture would back you up - click on it, and it shows leather being dyed in vats. But when I saw 'natural' that reinforced the way I was thinking!

Never underestimate the power of Google! Leather Dyeing with Plants Dyes: A Review Shazia Pervaiz*1 , Tahira Aziz Mughal1 , Filza Zafar Khan2 https://innspub.net/jbes/leather-dyeing-with-plants-dyes-a-review/ I am sure that if you search, you can find articles about dyeing leather that are written in your own language!

From the the title of the thread, Dwight, the poster wants to use plant pigments to dye leather. Not knowing what plants are available in their country, the only thing I can suggest is to make some vinegaroon:

kgg, that's NOT where the backup is! It's in the area showing in the first of the three pictures I posted above. When the plumber put the camera down the line, that whole area was filled with water, because the line doesn't have the right slope. The connection with the pipe next to it is also at an angle, another thing that's causing the problem. Edit: I see I said above the line has too much slope. Yeah, the section of pipe coming down to the join has too much slope, and the one it flows into has too little - it must be practically horizontal. Plus, the join between the pipes is at an angle. THIS is definitely the area that has the problem. But of course, the whole run of pipe is going to replaced, and the backasswards Y connection will be fixed! The original house was well built. The garage with the apartment above it was a later addition, and you don't have to look too closely to see it was definitely a D.I.Y. job. I've been told the original owner of the house was an electrical engineer, so at least the electrical is in good shape. I had extensive electrical work done when I added a kitchen to the apartment, and the electrician found everything was in pretty much up to code.

[rolls eyes at rednev] Got it one, Tim! You don't have to be a plumber to know the waste should flow TOWARDS the septic tank, not away from it!! Whoever installed the plumbing was definitely NOT a professional.

Gorgeous work, Mike!

Oookay, what's wrong with this photo? Septic tank is just visible at the top of the photo, line on the left is the one coming from my tenant's apartment/laundry room, etc. Other one comes from the main part of the house:

Wow! My mom's electric sewing machine from the 1940's had that exact same bobbin winder. I remember it well! I do think $5,000 is asking a bit much even for such a rare old machine. Anyone know if it would use a treadle or would you have to rotate the wheel by hand?

Pictures: First picture shows the problem area of the pipe. You can see the pipes are joined at an angle, and there is too much slope. This is what my patio looks like right now!! Here's where the two pipes join up. The one on the left is the line with the problem. The septic tank isn't visible, but it's at the top right of the picture. Wooden thing on the ground is a bird feeder that had to be removed because it was hanging right over the area where we were digging and hitting us on the head!

What fred said! When horse tack is concerned, there's rarely such a thing as too much NFO. Not enough NFO will eventually cause tack to crack and break. Where suspenders are concerned, you are never going to get the original colour back, though they may eventually dry out enough to not shed oil onto your clothing. Make a new set, or go with the elastic kind!

You guys are HILARIOUS!! Yeah, my late engineer husband would agree... if duct tape, wire or WD40 won't fix it yer screwed!

Today we unearthed the problem section of pipe. Not only does it slope down too much, the join with the previous pipe is at a slight angle. And yes, it does go under the oil tank (but not the air conditioner) so my tenant/contractor is going to reroute it, as Northmount suggested. Since the 3 inch drain from my side of the house has never had a problem, I suggested to W. that we could join it with a 4 inch pipe just after it comes out from under the deck, and run that the short distance to the tank, where it would connect it up with the new 4 inch pipe coming from his part of the house just before the tank. That way, we avoid having to tear up the deck, and having a 4 inch pipe draining into a 3 inch! It won't quite be up to code, which requires a 4 inch pipe outside the house, but sometimes you just have to say, hey this is going to be too damn difficult! It's a straight run of pipe from the house to the tank, no bends, and it's only about 13 or 14 feet, so it should drain without any problems.

Okay, have finally had the time to sit down and figure out just what you are talking about. The translation leaves a bit to be desired, but with the help of the English labels that are on the bottles, which you showed me in your private message, I now know what you were trying to say! Please let me know if I've got this right: First you apply a water based leather dye to the background areas, using a small paint brush (red bottle). Next, you apply an acrylic resist coat, what the translator calls the 'craft agent' (green and white bottle). This is the equivalent of Resolene or Tandy Super-Sheen/Satin Sheen. You apply this only to the high areas of the tooling, as you showed with the diagram with the red markings. You apply 2 coats of this, using a cotton cloth. You let it dry between coats. Third step, you apply the Fiebing's antique (vintage dye, also translates as retro dye) using a toothbrush. You use a cloth to wipe the antique away from the high spots of the carving. I think the toothbrush will be a great help in getting the antique to fill in all the carved/stamped areas. You can see I didn't do a good job of that with the tote bag! Thank you for sharing this, and thank you for your kind words about my leather work!

Well, the first step is still going to be to dig up the old line, and find just where it goes. That's still a work in progress. If it gives the oil tank and air conditioner a miss, replacing it will be easier. If not, your suggestion is worth a shot!

Here's a better picture of the change purse:

Okay, FINALLY got around to taking photos! The change purse and wallet are projects I had stashed away in a box because I was unhappy with the way they turned out. The tote bag is waiting for me to add a lining to it. The wallet is about the way most of my projects turn out if I antique them. There is some contrast, but not nearly enough. I applied two coats of either Super Sheen or Satin Sheen to it before antiquing. I honestly can't recall if I applied the resist to the whole project or just the area I wanted to protect. It was a long time ago! I know one of the problems with the change purse was the texture of the leather. It would have turned out better if the leather had been smooth veg tan. Also, the tooling could have been deeper, but again, I think that had a lot to do with the temper of the leather. The Molly tote bag was resisted with Resolene. As you will see from the picture of the panels before I assembled it, the finish turned out blotchy, even though I left it to dry for more than a day. I had this happen with a dog collar I did, too, only MUCH worse. It looked so bad I tossed it. And this was with me diluting the Resolene 50/50 with water. I've been so disappointed with the way the Tandy antiques turn out I bought some Fiebing's antique, but the results with it were no better. I can't remember which one I used on the tote bag. The other two were definitely Tandy. What I've done lately is gotten a dark background by painting it with dye and a small brush, as I did with the front of this messenger bag:

Thanks for the suggestion, kgg. Sounds like a good plan. Before it got too hot yesterday, I helped my tenant, W., dig down to where the two sewage lines join just before they go into the tank. Aaaannnd....of course, the line from MY end of the house is also 3 inches in diameter. It isn't covered over by concrete, though...just my back deck. So, the deck is going to have to be partially demolished, and I'll have to find a way of keeping my dog from exploring underneath it, and escaping through the holes in the lattice work at the front of the deck! We don't have the whole of my tenant's sewer line dug out yet, but it's starting to look like it not only goes underneath the oil tank, but also underneath my air conditioner. This job just keeps on gettin' bigger... When the sewer line that was underneath the concrete gets replaced, I'm going to have to bring in some clean fill to bring the surface up to the same level as the existing patio stones. The cement was 4 to 6" thick, while the patio stones are only about an inch and 3/4. Lucky for me, Home Hardware still stocks that pattern of stone, so I will be able to fill in the area with matching stones once it's levelled off. 7:30 am and it's up to 70 F already. Need to finish brekky and get out there and do some digging before it gets too damn hot... The humidex is already 84 degrees, and tomorrow is going to be even hotter with a high of 32 C/90 F! My tenant is fortunate his current day job is working in a nice air-conditioned house! (Which is why I'm pitching in to do whatever I can to fix the plumbing problem.)

My tenant has now uncovered the sewer line that was underneath the concrete slabs. As Frodo will tell you, the main line for a house sewer should be 4 inches in diameter. The line coming from the upstairs apartment in the house is the standard 4 inches. It then drains into a 3 inch diameter pipe, which is what is going into the septic tank. Jeez, how to guarantee flow problems... Installing the correct size of line is going to mean bashing a larger hole in the foundation of the house, and doing the same to the septic tank... Frodo, is that even possible? I'm assuming the original opening into the tank must have been 4 inches in diameter, because that's the standard size. As a friend who's going through some renos on a house with a lot of D.I.Y. 'improvements' has said, 'this is not so much D.I.Y. as it is D.I. WHY??? Trying to keep my sense of humour intact...

Frodo, there's a square spot on the end of a septic tank where the sewer line goes in. I assume the concrete is thinner in that spot. All he did was move the line from the middle of that spot to an inch or so lower. Everything was carefully sealed up with cement, and left for a couple of days to make sure there were NO LEAKS. This had to be done because that end of the tank was slightly higher than the outflow end, due to some settling over the years. It did help, because there were no more sewage backups for a year and a half. I plan to check this area when the line is replaced to make sure the tank hasn't settled any further. (Crosses fingers!) Or may be the tank didn't settle, maybe it was just the sewage line, which has now settled even further, causing the current problems. We'll figure it out - I know how to use a level and plumb bob!

LOL, rednev!

So, I got the last of the big chunks of cement into the trailer this morning, then my tenant took it to the dump. Even though it's free to dump, they had him weigh coming in and going out. The cement weighed 2,425 lbs. Wow. And all of it loaded into the trailer by Yours Truly... I have to say I'm kinda impressed with myself, especially considering what I went through last year! Not a lot being accomplished out there today. The humidex is about 37 C which is about 98 F! By the time W. got back from emptying the trailer, he was just about cooked!

Have no fear, Chuck! My tenant is an contractor with many years experience. And even I know that a sewer line has to be properly bedded, with gravel or some other substrate around it to keep it at the right angle. The soil her is very sandy, so have to make sure the line has a solid base that won't sink again. Have some limestone chips that should do the job, and keep things flowing in the right direction. Since it's the tenant's sewer line that has the problem, that provides additional motivation for him to get it right!

Thank you!! Great little video!

No kidding... I certainly hope the tank is fine. A couple of years ago, my neighbours had to have their entire septic system replaced, after it failed inspection when they were selling their house. It cost them $20,000. . I'm a pensioner, and so far this year, between my animals needing vet care, plumbing problems, and having to install a heat exchanger to keep my tenants from dying of heat stroke*, I've had over $7,500 in unexpected expenses! *The genius who designed the apartment over the garage didn't bother to put in a cold air return, which means the apartment is freezing in winter, and too hot in summer...

For me, the best proof the problem is the sewer line, not the tank, is that the sewer line from my side of the house has been problem free. If the problem really were the tank, it would be backing up too. Guess I should have picked another title for the thread, but I originally thought the problem might be the tank!