Sheilajeanne

Just blew a couple of happy hours browsing through these and downloading the ones that interested me!

USCM black is infamous for not staying put. I would NEVER buy it - have heard too many complaints similar to yours! If you DO use it, you have to buff it until your arms fall off before applying any sort of finish. Use the regular black next time.

Bob's yer uncle, indeed!

Kudos to you for doing this! Great job!

Last post on the page: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/89386-nigel-armitages-forthcoming-book/page/2/

What a great video! Thanks for posting it. The part that made me laugh: "It's not too expensive..."

Mtl. Biker, yup, that's for sure! Never noticed that! I bet they confused centimeters with millimeters. If you check the U.S. site, you'll likely get the accurate measurements in inches. Staples prices are pretty outrageous, though they do state what sort of floor or carpet the protectors are for.

Wal Mart sells them too: https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Transparent-Nonslip-Mat-Chair-Cushion-for-Living-Room-Study-Office-Floor-Protect-Color-Transparent-Size-400-400-1-5mm/2D0ZSUOPLKIS?utm_medium=paid_search&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=always_on&cmpid=SEM_CA_110_YV9M8SR8J2_71700000072956261_58700006365555367&utm_id=SEM_CA_110_YV9M8SR8J2_71700000072956261_58700006365555367&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4v2EBhCtARIsACan3nyqoQu7C75K7oKlNGztdC2bt2f9IShOUwX8dcD__xtf8QfQOzMb-4waAiWMEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I imagine most office supply places will also have them.

Frodo, there's a joke about that, but it's not for this thread. Going to post it in Off Topic...

Can you show us what these bevelers look like, please?

We just had a thread about punching holes for stitching. Let me see if I can find it! Okay, can't find the exact thread, but it contained a link to this video, which should be a great help to you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCFTDqQaEIc&ab_channel=ArmitageLeather Nigel has some excellent teaching videos. I strongly recommend subscribing to his YouTube channel.

I learn something new from this site nearly every day! Had NO IDEA!

No, he meant 3 to 4 oz. not 3/4 of an ounce. You don't use fractions when giving weights in ounces. And 3/4ths of an ounce would be less than 1/64th of an inch thick!! So, far too thin to use for much of anything!

That's why I bought a Tandy splitter, when they were on sale for a very reduced price! I bought the Tandy kit to use as a template, and will be spitting my own leather for the next wallet. You can buy craft cuts that are that thin, but they are REALLY expensive!

Live and learn...lol! Used to have this as my sig line on another website: The ability to make good decisions come with experience. Experience comes through making BAD decisions...

I would place my stitching lines BEFORE assembling any of the parts. That would solve your problem...

Yes! Can't believe they'd recommend 4-5 oz. leather for a wallet! I am currently working on a Tandy wallet kit, and nothing in the kit is thicker than 1 mm!

Jimi, RockyAussie hasn't been here in quite a long time. However, I did look up hair-on cowhide bags online (Etsy, etc.) and some of them are sewn with the stitching showing on the outside of the cowhide. I was planning to make more than one bag anyway - it's a BIG piece of cowhide - so am gonna try both ways of doing it, and see which I like best. And, more importantly, which is less of a headache to sew!

I fully agree. You need to CLEAN the gunk off first! Was that U.S.M.C. black you used? It's NOTORIOUS for bleed through! You have to buff the bejeebers out of it before putting anything else on the leather! The regular black dye is much better.

Chrisash, he covered that in the earlier thread I linked to above. Believe me, the first thing I did when I saw the ad was search this forum! Little gold mine we have here...

I think sewing the grain and hair sides together sounds a lot easier! If I put the hair on hide in the middle, and veg tan or some other non-hairy leather on the outside, then I can sew the gussets so they show on the outside, and not have to turn the bag after it's finished.

That's $2400 Canadian, not including shipping ( 210,820 Yen) And is it compatible with N. American electrical plugs?

...until it's time to actually put something together! I am planning to make a tote bag with alternating panels of hair on cowhide, and regular leather. The tote I am using as a guide has the panels overlapping - one on top of the other. I really don't see how this would work with the hair on hide - the hair would be in the way when you are trying to sew the panels together, unless you shaved it off. Then, of course, you'd run the risk of some of the shaved hide showing unless you were very careful with your stitching. So, I'm thinking I'd have to sew the bag inside out, with the grain sides together, then turn it. Advice, please? I realize furs are sewn this way (fur side to fur side), but cowhide isn't the same as fur.

Thanks, Constabulary (and everyone else)! I have already found and downloaded the manual. As I said earlier, I believe it was used for sewing furs, which might mean less wear and tear than in a cobbler's shop. Just guessing, though... If the seller didn't live 5 hours away, I'd have made arrangements to see it and test it out already. Not sure I want to drive all that way, then find out the machine is too worn out to be worth the trip. The seller doesn't know enough to be able to really test it out themselves. If I were going to make the drive, I thought I'd offer them $300 if it tests out okay. Decisions, decisions...

sigh...if they ever open the darn border, there are several people I'd like to visit in the northeastern U.S.! But I doubt that's going to happen any time soon! She says her price is negotiable, so I can likely get it for less than what she's asking. The problem with testing it is the one and only time I ever tried to use a treadle machine, I made a terrible mess of the thread! I suppose if I just stick with hand cranking the wheel, I'll do okay. They have never used it, know nothing about it, so I will be very much on my own if I go to test it out. I've been watching videos on threading it and winding the bobbin. The bobbin is very similar to the one I used in Home Ec classes during the 1960's, so hopefully it won't be too hard to figure out.