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fredk

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Everything posted by fredk

  1. I'd forgotten about this Thank you for the pattern Altho, it doesn't seem to have that bit that tips over the forehead
  2. I use the straight slot with lacing. The leather & lace are under great strain and I've never had the slots rip I lace around the pouch on this then its stuffed full of horse hair until no more can fit in. It puts lots of strain on the leather and lacing
  3. Cut your leather oversize, dye and assemble then cut through the layers with a knife to get the project size Wet your leather, as if casing it, apply the dye diluted 1:1. Put on multiple coats until you get the depth of colour you like. This will eliminate the streaks
  4. If you slap some oil/enamel paint over the buckle area of the design, let it dry then polish it off it will leave the paint in the low parts of the engraved design making it stand out more, or as the American would say 'it would pop'
  5. I no longer make belts. I make other things and a half-round punch or die suits my needs. I have many but the items I'm making right now needs a size that I don't have. So I might buy another . . . .
  6. Le Prevo has some Kanga hides in stock. You could cut your own lace or, just a thot; maybe they would do it for you?
  7. I used regular contact adhesive when I did some re-upholstery work on a few cars. The c/a worked fine, almost too well at times
  8. On masking; go to a shop that deals with plastic modelers. There are several masking fluids available. One is Maskol by Humbrol. But you can also buy liquid latex and paint it on to the area to be masked. The latex works out cheaper and is the basis of all the other masking fluids. I've even used PVA glue as a mask
  9. If I'm having a session airbrushing acrylics I just rinse the a/b out with some alcohol then water, put in the new colour, spray a bit off target, on to some handy card, then continue on target. At the end of the session I clean out the a/b as above then strip it down and give it a good cleaning, especially the needle. You/I don't want dried paint in the a/b I recommend you get a couple of sets of these a/b cleaning brushes. If you shop around you can get them for about $2 a set. There are dearer sets but they are the same as the cheap ones
  10. If using Angelus paints I'd suggest using their recommended sealer. The Angelus paint may have an adverse reaction to Resolene or any other sealer
  11. A bargain! But I don't need one right now
  12. and they are cheaper. They work great on leather. They're the only paints I use Sometimes I spray a coat or three of resolene because I've found that brushing or sponging it on will lift the carefully made dyeing
  13. to this I'd add; put a description of what is on the front cover
  14. Years ago it was common to get special folders for magazines. I think you can only order them thru office stationary suppliers. Its a heavy weight card folder, like an A4 folder without the spring loops, with wires running top-to-bottom at the spine edge. They usually took 12 issues. You put the wire in the center of the magazine and spring it back into the holder. Then you could put the magazines on your book shelf
  15. Not absolutely necessary but it helps Don't use anything very aggressive. The a/b has tiny rubber seals inside it which can be destroyed by strong cleaner*. As you will be using acrylics an alcohol can be used to clean it out. A rinse will do, with a complete strip down only occasionally. On a strip down; do it on a tray with a big magnet handy on the tray. Let the small steel parts go to the magnet, that lessens the chance of loosing them * there are special dedicated a/b cleaners available
  16. fredk

    Conchos

    Not exactly the same but similar on Aliexpress, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32704647915.html
  17. We have now done 16 months of testing. (October '23 to end of January '25) All the pieces are much the same as on June 6th 2024, with only some slight changes on a few pieces Set #1, the Car set 1. Baby Oil; Both sides are dark, slightly lighter on the reverse side, More flexible than Control 1 (C1), No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 2. Cooking Oil (rape seed); Both sides very dark, Slightly more flexible than C1, Stronger cooking oil smell, No sign of rot or fungus 3. Lard (pork fats); Light but darker than C2, Flex is about the same as C1, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 4. NFO Compound; Both sides very dark, Flex is better than C1, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 5. Olive Oil ( Pure Extra Virgin); Both sides very dark, Flex is only slightly better than C1, Smell of cooking oil is stronger, No sign of rot or fungus 6. '3 in 1' oil (benzine); Both sides very dark, slightly lighter on reverse side, Flex is much stiffer than C1, Slight noticeable smell of '3 in 1' oil, No sign of rot or fungus 7. Vaseline; Colour is almost back to the same as C1, Flex is stiffer, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus Set #2 were hung outside on a wood frame. They got light and heavy rain with periods of sunshine, warm overcast and wind, both light breezes and strong winds The same oils were used in the same sequence . Control C1A was hung with the other pieces All have been lost except; 4. NFO Compound; Both sides are medium dark, Flex is better than C1A, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus In conclusion; So far there has been no rot, no fungus and most importantly NONE of the oils or fats, especially the cooking oils/fats, have gone rancid When I have time, maybe next week, I'll start a new batch for hanging outside
  18. Wood stain works well if you take into consideration; use only oil dye, your leather needs prepared correctly for the dye to spread evenly. the wood dye removes natural oils from the leather so it will need a feeding of NFO afterwards
  19. A suction feed a/b needs a compressor with a lot of free-air delivery and a higher pressure
  20. Grey/gray dye is available. I bought grey dye from a seller in England, but thats not a lot of use to you
  21. For a matt/flat finish; Dilute your Resolene 1:1 with water and add in some talcum powder. No more that 10%. The talc acts like a matting agent. Be careful the talc doesn't clump up. If you can use one of those battery powered whisks. You can buy jars of matting agent, eg by Tamiya, it costs about $3.50 for a jar which will last ages. But the talc will work just as well. Then put on several coats of this mix. After each coat is dry buff it and see whats its like
  22. A BBC report that the Museum might move https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c4gxyye2080o I didn't know it existed
  23. Both, or either. I also add some acrylic varnish* in. Speeds up the drying, add to the shine and helps the Resolene seal * goes by various names, eg 'Mop and Glo' by Pledge or 'Wood Floor Polish' by Astonish
  24. And how do you keep it soft or liquid enuf to come out the wee spout? Just asking for a friend,
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