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Everything posted by fredk
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Sorry to hear of this attack I hope you are resting and recovering Bulldogs of certain breeds and XL Bulldogs are banned throughout the UK and Ireland because of such attacks and the killings they made
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On most of those items we are the opposite! eg. Height, person, now in centimetres. Weight; person, Kilogrammes, Food; pre-packed = grams, or loose at a grocer = imperial, Distance, miles. Most fluids are sold by the litre but you still get a pint in the pub
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s'ok UK is 1/3 metric and 0.66666bar imperial
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Its a recording from about 1936 I knew this was false news cos we don't drive at km per hour! We do mph If corn oil is made from corn, and olive oil is made from olives, what's baby oil made from? If you boil a funny bone it becomes a laughing stock.
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Never mind JLS, Just one point of view Be aware that no matter how many people are there only 0.1% will stop with you. Have cheap things with your brand on it to sell cheaply or give away and better stuff, like motorcycle saddle bags, on the back rack to show off. Attract the tiny trainee grups to your stall and their parents will come too I'm going to start including a new range; small toy animals. I have the patterns, have had them for years. They use up about a 4 in sq of 1mm veg tan. You put string through holes and when you pull the string it pulls the animal into shape Like these; I think I'll maybe just do the elephant (and leave off that hanging fitting) I'll have a few of these, bagged up with a piece of string, to give away to trainee grups Its still in the planning stages
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No, not fully yet. I made that one for myself several years ago I don't think its a meerschaum. Its just a pipe I keep and use to show the pipe rest 'in action' I got ye. But I think the leather is too lite weight to hold a phone, It wud just fall over
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Here's a wee item youse can whip up from a bit of scrap. Got an odd piece from cutting a belt to length? A portable pipe rest for pipe smokers. Sell it at fairs, stalls or where ever, or even give them away with your brand stamped on it This one is about 19cm long x 3cm high and 2.5mm thick - cos that was wot I had. One snap, and one cover piece. Stamped and dyed Keep to using a snap or such to keep the pipe rest thin so it can be carried in a pocket or baccy pouch. I tried a Sam Brown stud but that sticks out too much 19cm long + or - 1cm is about the right length. 3cm high is about right too
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@Bird Lady Very nice birdies Hope we helped you in some way
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Yes, 7.5 = 3mm, 8 = 3.2mm, 9 = 3.6mm, not much difference really. I use 2.5mm max = 6 oz
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I can't access the video But from what I can see that is not Grade A. More like C or lower. The hide should be smooth all over. And you got thinner than you ordered. No excuse for that. About 7.8 oz for 8 minimum. 8 to 9 should be 7.8 min to 9.2 max
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Fortunately I've only had two real bad cases of over oiling. I tried kitty litter and corn starch. Neither worked. Never removed a bit of oil
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Veg tan tooling with chrome tan projects
fredk replied to Blitz Thunderlungs's topic in How Do I Do That?
I'd stay with basic brown. Chrome tan pre-dyed in brown and veg tan accents dyed any shade of brown -
I've never been really able to extract NFO after a real bad case of over oiling However, on modest over oiling I use 1. another piece of veg tan which needs oiling to leech out the oil. Laid in contact and left for months (cos I usually forget it) 2. a piece of brown wrapping paper to leech it out. I find brown wrapping paper work best of all papers
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You can get knife blades for larger bandsaws Build a support table to hold the work. I made extensions to my 10" sq table, front and back, so I could cut long lengths of beech wood. The extensions were about 18" front & back, afair
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Certain leather work or crafting has titles; ie cobbler = repairing footwear, cordwainer = making footwear, saddler, and others. But what about bag-makers, leather armourers, board-game makers, and such. We need to make up names to cover those crafts
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How much would a basic laser engraver cost? Just one to burn simple things into the leather. Not too deep or anything
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Well thats better than the funny looks I get when I say 'I model', or 'make models'. Now reduced to 'I build Airfix model aeroplanes, I've never growed up'
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sorry, sorry, sorry, I called the tang the scales I'm sorry did I mention that I apologise and I'm sorry
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Is that the Tandy/Stohlman and others book? If it is my version says Leatherwork on the cover
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Where to get swivel for a holster
fredk replied to Randy Cornelius's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thats a clever idea May I add; just an idea, punch a hole larger than needed and fit a sail eyelet for the C/S to bear on rather than the leather -
All my first books were titled Leatherwork or Leather Work So I mostly use that word or those words Some ppl on here are shure Leather Crafters, which is far above my mere status as a simple stumbler
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The scale will be any metal beyond the blade forming the basis of a grip. Contact glue the 3-4mm leather on to this, either side. Skive and shape the leather to make a firm grip. Tuck one end of the thonging betwixt the leather and the scale. turn it right angle to wrap the grip. Apply weatherproof PVA to the leather on the grip as you wind the thong around tightly. The PVA will give you a little working time and pull apart if the thong is not tight and needs to be done again. If you want, coat with thinned w/p PVA after its finished. If you don't have or cannot get weatherproof PVA you can make it by adding 'Mop N' Glo' (or similar) to ordinary PVA. About 10%. But it also thins it
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I would tuck the start of the lace under the leather covering the scales, turn at right angle and start wrapping, using weatherproof PVA glue to hold. At the end, tuck the loose end under the lacing wrap, sticking with the w/p PVA, come up about 4 turns of the wrap. Takes a bit of dexterity to do it. I've done sword grips this way.
