CampbellRandall

I'm not sure who told you this, but its not entirely true. Yes - for many years Campbell's were lease only (rent) machines. Customers could buy the lease and rent the machines for about $50 a month. This became a problem in later years due to all the paperwork and taxes we had to pay for the program. In the last decade we sold most of the lease machines to the customers, and new customers have the option to lease to own. It just makes more sense for us and the customer. To make matters worse, we had a few bad apples stop paying rent and then fell off the radar with the machines. These were stolen machines. We were able to track most of them down, but a few are still floating around. For new customers, we ask for the serial numbers of used machines. If we find the machine was stolen, we may ask for information on the previous owner so we can prosecute if necessary. We have never repossessed a machine without some compensation or options to the unlucky owner. We will not force anyone to buy a rebuilt machine. Now, if you buy a stolen car and the owner asks for it back, is that wrong? If you are going to buy a used machine, its worth the free phone call to check if the serial number is legit. Also be careful who you are buying from. If the deal sounds to good to be true, it may be.

The thread twist is more important for machine sewing than hand sewing. The sewing action by hand is about as simple as you can get, so unless you are doing summersaults while you sew, you shouldn't see much difference between the two types. Traditional sewing machines (single needle or straight needle and awl) all use left twist thread, as the mechanism is designed to work without the thread unraveling. If you sew with right twist thread in a traditional straight needle machine, it will unravel. The bobbin doesn't mater since the mechanism doesn't have far to travel. A curved needle machine, as used in a shoe shop, uses right twist. If anybody has taken a close look at these machines, although it is a needle and awl, the mechanism is upside down (needle on top, awl on bottom). So if the machine works in reverse, it make sense that it would take the opposite twist.

I would not used pre-waxed linen in these machines - too messy. Linen in general is questionable for a lighter duty machine like these. You can try sewing with it dry, but will likely come apart or get "fuzzy".

Frida: It really depends on your machine. Linen is typically more difficult to sew with a traditional single needle machine when compared with synthetic thread. When sewing with linen, it needs to be waxed to bind the thread together. Most heavy stitchers have a wax pot for this purpose. What kind of machine do you have?

138 should work on top, but I'd go smaller on the bobbin.

Now and then we get a bad one. The crack in the handle, or ferrule, should be covered under warranty. You can send it back to the distributor you got it from and they should replace it. The blade edge is about as sharp as any other store bought knife. Unless you get a knife from a custom maker, you'll need to sharpen the blade before use.

That's why I hesitate jumping into these "who's machine is best" discussions. I feel like we are talking about somebody's dog, or even kid. Somebody will eventually get offended if you talk about, or don't talk about their favorite. Bottom line - there is not one machine that will be everything to everyone. Every machine has its pro's and con's. It all comes down to what will work for your needs.

Since the needle & awl was brought in to the conversation, I'll weigh in briefly on our machine, but I'll stay out of the Artisan, Cobra, Cowboy debate. I wanted to clarify that although needle and awl machines don't have reverse (due to the two step function of the needle and awl system), contrary to popular belief, you can back tack. We actually recommend back tacking with synthetic thread, and its as easy as lifting the foot and stitching over your last few stitches. The throat is narrower than longer arm machines (9-1/4"), but this doesn't keep many custom saddle makers from sewing large pieces like skirts. The stitch will be cleaner and tighter than a single needle machine due to the design of the machine. The needle and awl replicates the hand sewing process, and although the machine was designed over 125 years ago, it is still very popular among custom makers and large scale manufactures. These machines will cost more than other machines on the market, since they are not mass produced and we still manufacture and assemble our machines in the USA. You can find used machines for less, just do your homework since many our our machines have been in use for decades. In my opinion, the "temperamental" reputation some have given these machines has a lot to do with people working with old, worn machines without proper training. If you are looking for an in expensive machine, give Steve, Ryan or the others a call. If you are picky about your stitch quality and want a dependable American made machine, we would be happy to help.

Your speed depends on the type of leather and the type of wheel you are using. I'm not saying you can't burnish at 3600, but the faster you go, and the more aggressive the wheel = more friction = more chance in burning the leather. If you are using wood or steel wheels, they will slick out and produce less friction. If you are using canvas, leather, etc it will behave differently. Our machines us 4" diameter wheels so we normally recommend around 1400 RPM. If you are using, lets say a 2" or less, the surface speed in at least half, so with 3600 RPM your wheel is moving about the same speed as my 4" wheel at around 1750/1400 rpm. Also, if you have a faster machine, you cant let the leather sit in one place for too long. Burnishing is as much science as it is technique. Find the right ingredients for you application and experiment.

Its hard to beat the price. You'll have to engineer burnishing wheel adapters, which is going to cost more than the machine. FYI, I normally don't recommend over 1400 RPM for burnishing, or you'll burn the leather.

Christopher, The 34 system is the modern equivalent. 34 The link below shows common stock sizes. We may be able to order in other sizes if needed. - Dan

I agree with Art, in that a flat bed machine would be the best option for what you are describing. I'll also echo that although a walking foot machine is the best suited for leather, its not the best for "boot top" type decorative stitching. A roller foot allows you to turn tight corners and follow a set pattern. With a walking foot, the step action of the feet would be less maneuverable. What is the maximum thread size and material thickness you expect to sew? If you are considering an original machine brand, your options are Adler, Juki, Pfaff & Seiko. Other brands would be cloned variations of these, mostly made in China. Less than 3/8" thick material The SEIKO STH-8BLD-3 Sewing Machine , in my opinion, is the best priced name brand. Made in Japan. It will handle 207 out of the box. The feet interchange with Singer types and are inexpensive. The Juki LU-1508 is another good Japanese brand. The standard LU-1508N will only handle 138 thread. The Juki will cost more but accessories are relatively inexpensive. The Adler 267-373 can use 138 thread. German engineered, but current models are made in China. Less than 1/2" thick material The Juki LU1508H will accept up to 207 thread. Accessories are inexpensive. The Adler 867 can handle 277 thread and its still made in Europe. The Pfaff 1245 is a good brand, made in Germany and will sew 207 thread. Accessories will be more expensive. We sell Adler, Seiko and Juki. My preference has always been stick with an original brand machine. If you choose to purchase a Chinese clone, make sure you've got a reputable dealer that will back it up, as with any machine.

For anybody working with exotics, you might be interested in this article. Alligator accessories, normally recession proof since the bulk are purchased by the wealthy, have seen a huge drop in demand this year. This echos what I am hearing from my customers. This is a bigger drop than previous decades. One figure states the revenues from gators in Louisiana have dropped from 70 million in 2007 to about 10 million this year. Respite for reptiles as demand drops for skins‎ http://www.bostonherald.com/business/gener...position=recent

Make sure you install a filter/lubricator in you line. Compressed air will create condensation, and eventually affect the performance. We had an Aerositch in the shop last week that was misbehaving. After cleaning and installing a lubricator, it was sewing just fine.

Back stitching isn't a problem on a needle and awl machine. Most of the leading holster manufacturers use our Campbell machines for their work, and they back stitch the holsters. The only difference is a Campbell dose not have reverse, so you simply lift the foot and restitch over the first few stitches. Cutting the thread shouldn't be a big concern unless the awl is perpendicular to the stitch line. If the awl is set parallel, it shouldn't cut the thread any more than a leather point needle. You can always sew to the side of the previous stitch, and use the same hole. Normally thread sizes 138 to 415 are used, but I have sewn as light as 69 and as heavy as 693. A needle and awl will make a cleaner stitch than a single needle (especially on the bottom), and can pull a much tighter stitch, especially at heavy weights.

Depends on the machine. Nylon works fine in traditional single needle machines, but I would not use it in a needle and awl machine. Nylon has more stretch in it than polyester, and the tighter tensions on the needle and awl system don't like it.

We've had good luck with the Italian Edge paints. The picture below took about 4 layers of the plus paint. Whatever you use, you'll need to lay it on thick. You really can't burnish Chrome-Tan so its best to cover it up.

Ed - It would be easier to buy them off the shelf. McMaster-Carr has them with an ID of 0.078" with a max thickness of 0.024" BRASS WASHERS Regards, Dan

The Adler 105 MO is made for sewing beaded-seams on shoes (moccasins). When you say "point", do you mean length of the stitch? The model 205-MO has a maximum length of 6 mm. I do not have specifications for the 105 series, but it should be similar. L'Adler 105 MO è fatto per cucire le mocassini (calzature). Quando lei dice il "point", lei significa la lunghezza del punto? Il modello 205 MO ha una lunghezza massima di 6 millimetro. Non ho di descrizioni per la 105 serie, ma dovrebbe essere simile. - Saluti! Daniel Naegle

I've never seen a 105 Adler with walking foot. The walking foot came later with the 205 series. I have a Alder dealer book from 1984 and at that time they still only offered the fixed foot in the 205 series. Thats part of the reason for the creation of the Ferdinand Bull. The original Bull used an Adler 205-64 compound feed with a modified jump foot mechanism. Ferdinand later switched to the Consew/Seiko machine for the Bull.

If it is a 105-64 series is should be a single foot with needle feed & drop feed

Billy, We carry Landis 3 parts, including needle plates. Call during business hours for pricing 1-800-327-9420. Regards, Dan Naegle

You mentioned the machine was rebuilt? It could be whoever worked on the machine didn't assembled the machines correctly. It could how the shafts are installed. It may be the fiber shaft has been resurfaced too many times and you've lost room for adjustment. I'm out of the office, but we will be back to work on Monday. I'll confirm with one of our mechanics then.

Clint: The gap between the fiber roll and the knife plate is adjusted by lowering the work table. You should see two hex bolts on the underside of the table with slots. Loosen the bolts and slide the table to expose more blade.

I'll add to Ryan's list of Needle and Awl machines. The Needle and Awl is a unique American design for heavy leather goods. They are tough machines and will produce a tighter and cleaner stitches than modern closed eye needle machines. They are still very popular among custom leather workers and widely used for factory production of holsters, saddles, belts, harness, cases, etc. References: NEEDLE & AWL MACHINES The BOSWORTH & the CYCLONE 1. Campbell Harness StitcherAwl Feed Current machines use a re-machined castings and are rebuilt from existing cores. All internal parts are available as new except the main frame. [*]2. Randall Harness Stitcher (copy of the Campbell) Awl Feed Available as rebuilt or used. All parts are available for the except the main frame. [*]3. Landis #3 (designed from the Campbell - patent states "Campbell type") Awl Feed Available as rebuilt or used. Some parts are available. The #3 uses some parts that interchange with the Campbell. Other parts we build, or are modified Campbell parts. [*]4. Landis #16 Needle Feed Available as rebuilt or used. Some parts are available. [*]5. Union Lockstitch Needle Feed Available as new, rebuilt or used. All parts are available. [*]6. Cyclone Awl Feed Available as rebuilt or used. Campbell Bosworth stocks most parts. Some parts made on demand. [*]7. Champion narrow and wide throat machines (AKA - Peerless 30) Needle Feed Available as used. Few parts are available. Some parts made on demand. [*]8. American Straight Needle Needle Feed Available as used Narrow throat - only some parts available [*]9. The Bosworth Developed around the turn of the century, it features a closed eye needle with an awl feed. The design must have been lacking, as records show most machines were returned for Campbells or similar models. Obsolote and nearly impossible to find.