CampbellRandall
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Everything posted by CampbellRandall
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È possibile acquistare pittura per bordi di pelle in vari colori. Si prega di contattare Galli SPA di Vigevano (Tel 0381 42423). Siamo un distributore per i loro prodotti negli Stati Uniti.
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Welcome to the forum Lindsay!
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We have customers using our machines for bareback riggings and harness. Also used in sewing saddle cantels, rather than stitching by hand.
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I would not go any less that 1/2". Most clicker have a heavy beam and base to back up the pads, so thicker is always better.
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I suppose it depends on the snaps style and quantity needed. We stock some Dot snaps, but like a lot of suppliers, if its not something commonly used the minimum order quantities can be impeding. What is the style and finish of the snap you needs?
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What The Heck Is This Machine
CampbellRandall replied to chainftw's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
This looks like a Peerless perforating machine. Sewmun is right - obsolete, I'd guess made in some time between 20's ans 40's. Dies can be made and replacement punches can be sourced, but that's probably it. -
Manual Or Online Manual For Atom 25 Ton Clicker?
CampbellRandall replied to cumberlandhighpower's topic in Old/Sold
CS, We have manuals. Which model do you have? Regards, Dan Naegle -
Just to clarify, the Singer 111W112 is a walking foot machine, but not all 111's have walking feet. The 111W100 for example is compound feed only.
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Can you give us a model number? It could be an old Adler with a Chandler label.
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Sorry Wiz, you were misinformed. The Thread lubricant (AKA Lax Wax) IS water-based emulsified paraffin. We have made it for decades as an alternative to hard wax. SUP-LBCHS-G Campbells Thread Lubricant - Gallon I'll make sure to give Charlie a wack upside the head for giving you the wrong information.
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Your wife must be really understanding... I wasn't aloud to work when we had our first kid. I guess taking my laptop to check on work during honeymoon was not a great idea either.
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sales scam on machinery
CampbellRandall replied to Hennessy's topic in New and Refurbished to Like New
Earnest is still working the scam. One of my customers just contacted us about him because it sounded too good to be true. -
I think both Art and Ray are right - just in different words. A glassing jack rubs a glass cylinder over a hide for a slick,translucent surface. (AKA jacked leather, glassing, glazed, glazing) This is used most commonly with alligator hides. Below is a link to an article on the basic process. http://campbell-bosworth.com/articles/Finishing-Methods.pdf
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How are embossing wheels designed and made?
CampbellRandall replied to jmorton's topic in Leather Tools
I've seen these done a few ways. We do some work in house, but the detailed dies we outsource to an engraving company. CAST ROLLS The dies you purchase from companies like Tandy and Tippman are cast, which is why they are so cheap. They make a mold from an original engraved roll in zinc or brass. The results have less detail and strength compared to engraved brass. MAG WRAPPED ROLLS This is a cheap and easy roll, but is the weakest and least detailed. For limited use I have seen companies take a chemical etched magnesium plate (only good for 2D art), and then wrap it around a roll. MACHINE ENGRAVED BRASS (2D) With the right equipment and talent, you can machine engrave a roll. For simple designs, like a meandering pattern or barbwire, a CNC mill can cut the pattern if you have the time and software to program it. The artwork needs to be sized to the circumference of the roll, so some manipulation (shrinking or stretching) may be needed to make it fit. This is normally done on the design/programming end. Some of the corners may need to be finished by hand. HAND ENGRAVED BRASS (3D) This is how most detailed dies are still made. Even simple 2D patterns require a skilled hand to finish the job. The guys we use have been doing it for 20+ years, and its an art form, just like hand tooling. I've been asked many times, "with today's technology, can't you just scan a picture and a CNC can spit out a roll." As someone that has experience programming CNC equipment, its not that easy. You can make a 3D scan, but then each tool path needs to be created and proper tools selected for each little cut - we are talking about hours of setup. Even something as simple as a basket weave pattern has a lot going on. Then you have limits on what tools you can use, and how they can cut. Undercuts, like on a floral pattern, are near impossible. A machine cannot replicate what human hands can do - not without a lot of training. So for the really good rolls, hand engraved are the way to go. THE DESIGNS The best way to design a roll is hand tool it. Then whoever makes the roll has a clear understanding of what to do. Digital designs (line art or pictures) are the second choice, but you will need to make clear what you want the finished pattern to look like. -
Some states are worse than others. Normally the rule applies if you have ever operated in that state, whether it is an office, warehouse, etc. We have had rental equipment in most states, which qualifies in some cases. CA, for instance, collects tax based on the county and the rates vary. If you even had a sales man live in the state for 6 months, you are locked in to collect tax. Even if we left the state, we required to collect tax unless we close our company and reopen under a different name. Do your homework, but I think for most out of state sales you are safe.
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The Consew 206, if it is an original, Japanese Seiko and not a Chinese clone (Consew is importing clones in many models), should take 207 out of the box. We have adjusted them to work with 277 on top, but you need to be familiar with the machine. The price is fair. A new Seiko STH-8BLD-3 (Same as Consew 206RB) on motor stand is about $1,300.
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This is probably a tubular rivet with cap. The tubular rivet is stronger than a rapid rivet, and flares out into the cap back for a clean look on both sides. You would need a rivet setter for a tubular rivet. I think the Rex style riveter would be the cheapest option. A foot press would be the most efficient, even better with hopper. Copper rivets are one of the strongest fasteners you could use, but I don't understand how you can set it without the burr. Is this for cosmetics?
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NewYorkerInSydney, They style really depends on what you are comfortable with and how you want to use it. OS-142 The palm awl haft is shaped to that you can grip it in the palm of your hand and push. This is probably the most comfortable to use. OS-143 The peg awl haft has a large handle to grip. I would say its the least common of the three. OS-145 This haft is commonly used by shoemakers. The knobbed end is easy to grip, especially when pulling. This would be good to use with a jerk needle. - Hope this helps! Dan Naegle
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I think these will be your best option. Pricey, but no grinding. http://www.mcmaster.com/#95519a601/=4iaotw' rel="external nofollow"> Binding Post 1/8" Barrel Regards - Dan Naegle
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What brand and model Stapler do you use?
CampbellRandall replied to GrampaJoel's topic in Leather Tools
GrampaJoel, LT-P356 P35 3/8 inch STAPLES The P35 uses a 3/8" wide staple and will set a flat crown. Many of our customers use it for belt loops. Regards, Dan Naegle -
What brand and model Stapler do you use?
CampbellRandall replied to GrampaJoel's topic in Leather Tools
Here is another option LT-P35 P35 EXTRA HEAVY DUTY PLIER TYPE STAPLER -
A Study in Embossing
CampbellRandall replied to JohnBarton's topic in Satchels, Luggage and Briefcases
Very nice work. I can see how tedious it could be using a small press. For production work, companies use a plate embossing press (over 100 tons) for large pieces, Model P140 Hydraulic Plate Embossing Press or a rotary embossing machine, like the model R32 which can handle material about 8" wide. Model R-32 Rotary Embossing Machine