trash treasure

I did exactly that , on a Singer 111 - This is a 6" Browning sheave, made for a 3L belt, so the belt rides on the outer circumference of the pulley - A lot more comfortable to hand wheel, than a belt riding down in the groove. As long as the machine doesn't have a special shaft end for stitch length adjustment, etc, it could probably be done for most any machine, with a little work.

Apologies for being totally OT - My wife used to work for one of them, Gunnar Grabaum of Wingsails, in NY state. We heard some years ago, that he had died in a crash, demo-ing a double that he was selling! Patty always used to say how much it troubled her, seeing the condition of the sails they'd get in for repair or replacement - Held together with duct tape, etc - That people would actually fly an airplane patched up like that bothered her for some reason ....... Speaking of liability, it used to be that the sail cloth suppliers (Challenge, DP, Bainbridge, etc) wouldn't sell to you, if they knew you were making UL wings - Is that still true ? Again, sorry for the thread drift - Good luck with the timing

Many causes of puckering - Not only the machine - A lot of info here : https://coats.com/en/information-hub/Eliminating-Seam-Puckering

Don't know how you could do it without pre-cutting it and seaming it first , and then tricky feeding through the binder. But maybe I'm missing something - I often do....

I looked at the manual for this machine, and the timing instructions seem "odd". It looks like they're telling you to time the machine at the right zig zag position, but having the hook cross the needle while the needle bar is stationary, at the bottom of it's stroke , NOT after the needle has begun upward travel by 2mm, or whatever. I have NO experience with this machine, but I don't understand a timing instruction like that - The slight upward travel of the needle is what forms the loop that the hook catches on any machine I know of - That's just the way it works. But, that's not much help, as like I say, I have no experience with this one - Hopefully someone that does will chime in.......

Interesting Art Deco design on that, but I wouldn't buy it - Hard enough to get parts for "normal" machines ..........

Looks like the Chikon has a needle positioner, if that's a factor for you.

Saw a couple on e-bay, but the prices were kind of "funny".........

That's a beautiful machine !

Exactly as Constabulary and jimi say - You can gently bend the little tab outward a little, to make the plate fit the bed slot snugly.

chrisash is right on - You can't have too many machines .......

I don't think you have to take it completely apart to paint it - Or even completely strip the old paint. Take all the external controls, plates, tension units, etc, off. Next, sand and / or scuff the old paint down with fine paper, and "Scotchbrite" type abrasive pads - I would not strip the old paint in your case, as it's just worn, and not cracked and peeling, and it's actually a decent primer for new paint. The beauty of hammered paint is that it's a textured finish, and it hides any little irregularities to the point where you won't notice. That's why manufacturers use it. Clean the machine well, at that point, with solvent, to wash out any abrasive residue, and blow it dry with compressed air. Give it a wipe down with acetone, or even just alcohol, making sure the surface to be painted is dull and OIL-FREE, and then mask off everything, including all openings, really carefully. You don't need to worry about the paint "below the belt" - You won't see it. Just mask the machine with a little "skirt" below table level. Exacto knives and razor blades are your friends, here. I made myself a little turn table, or "Lazy Susan" type of platform, to paint machines like this - It really helps avoid one side being in shadow, and missing something when spraying. If you want to use a primer, I'd suggest a light coat of a self etching type - A LIGHT coat. Hammered paint is pretty tough, in my experience, but it's best to let any paint dry and cure for a LONG time - Weeks or longer, before using. This doesn't apply, of course, if you paint with some kind of 2 part stuff, but I won't go there - Too toxic for me. Anyway, that's what I got - I used to be considerably more anal about this kind of stuff, but I've found that unless you want to create a museum piece, doing this kind of simplified prep work usually gives pretty good results. Good luck. OTOH - Handstitched is also right - You could just get it mechanically perfect as possible and just use it - If it does good work for you, you'll soon get to like it just the way it is :~)

Hey! Maybe I got it right ! As they say: Even a blind pig finds a nut, sometimes :~)

Sorry - I misunderstood the issue. Maybe it's just that the lever is bent / damaged - Does it meet the stop tab on the bobbin case squarely, when it comes around? It should be exactly level with that angled tab.

That square tab is supposed to fit in the notch on the underside of the needle plate - That's what keeps the bobbin case from rotating with the hook. Do that when you put the needle plate in, and problem solved.

You mentioned that the binding you're using is stretchy - It may be that the tape is stretching enough to become narrower as it's pulled through the binder, and the effect is amplified at the corners. Any way you can limit the tape stretch / tension will probably help.

Wow ! Best to bite the bullet on this one, and start over.

I always thought it was just a speed thing - Rotary hook can sew at a higher SPM than an oscillator ? But, as usual, there's probably more involved than I think .......

I'm glad that someone who actually knew what they were talking about (Bob), finally chimed in :~)

Maybe try some heat and penetrating oil on that gear - All the machines I buy are old and crusty, never a new one :~) , so I often need to free stuck parts, using chemicals and heat (sometimes) - I like to use Kroil (Best, but smelly), or Blue Creeper (2nd best, but less smelly), but try something like that - For heat, if you have a heat gun, that'll work well, or even just a hair drier (I have even been known to use a micro torch at times) - The heat will soften old grease, and make the penetrating stuff penetrate better - The gear WILL come loose eventually , and you won't hurt anything. As far as jimi's suggestion of just re-setting the needle bar - That will work, IF that was the cause of the original out-of-time problem (A driven-up, or shifted needle bar), but you can really wind up chasing your tail with this stuff, if you're not careful - The normal procedure for timing a machine is to set the needle bar FIRST (To correct spec for the needle system, etc), and THEN time the hook to it. If you just set the needle bar to accommodate the hook timing (whatever it happens to be) .......... Well, It wouldn't be my first choice for a solution - Just sayin'.

It must be just stuck to the hook shaft - The parts schematic just shows those 2 set screws ....... Unless there's a screw-under-a-screw, Singer-style. I don't see what else could be stopping the hook shaft from moving. Anybody else with guidance here?

If I had to do it without a manual, I think I'd loosen that large bevel gear (In the lower left view), and then you could turn the hook shaft, to adjust. But maybe I'm missing something - Probably ......

The total lift will be the same - The presser bar travel / lift is what limits it.

Here's a link to the manual, I think, but you have to pay for it : https://www.paypal.com/webapps/shoppingcart?mfid=1576761307702_cfa11ca903db8&flowlogging_id=cfa11ca903db8#/checkout/shoppingCart It came from here - Lots of Pfaff manuals : http://www.pfaffmanuals.com/Pfaff_Industrial_Manuals.htm

Agree with the others - The motor is cocked, and the belt is squeaking because it's making an angular contact with the pulleys, instead of straight line pull.