CitizenKate

Use a wax finish for water-soluble dyes. Kate

Eco-flo is actually more light-fast than Fiebings (see this thread posted awhile back). However, I do agree that one thing I don't care for about EF is how much of it you have to put on to get the amount of color you want. So now I'm testing Angelus, and so far I'm finding it to be better than Fiebings. It is more light-fast than Fiebings, and almost as light-fast as EF. And I like how much more intense it is; I can get the intensity I want with very few applications, and sometimes I even need to reduce it. Kate

I can imagine! Now imagine how pleasantly surprised your newly-referred customer is going to be when he sees how much better they've gotten in 20 years. As the Aussies would say, "Good on ya, mate!" Kate

If you use an inkjet printer, the leather needs to be dry when you transfer it. (See my earlier post.) But thanks for answering our question about whether you could transfer a pattern that was printed onto the transparency with a laserjet printer. Sounds like it will work if the leather is wet. Yes. Kate

Kate

The younger of my two dogs was potty-trained when I adopted him (he was rescued from a shelter), but had a horrible chewing problem. I would come home for lunch and find chewed-up stuff all over the house. Oh, no, my sheepskin slippers!!! Crating him ended that problem instantly. Beyond the first day or two, none of my dogs have minded being crated when they were in training. I could just say, "Go kennel", and he went in, sat down, and waited for me to close the door. It really is not difficult to do at all. But just remember, you can't leave them there more than a few hours at a time, and be there to mind him when he's out. Then, you can gradually allow him to spend more time outside the crate, but you'll find he will still want to go there when he wants to be left alone. They are very useful for training or when the dog is being handled, but I don't think you'll find too many trainers or makers of muzzles who advocate leaving a dog unattended with a muzzle. Kate

A kennel is safer for the dog. But hey, just because I've owned and trained dogs myself for over thirty years (how about you?), don't take my word. The QUALIFIED trainers who taught me would also be happy give you a clue-by-four. But whatever. If you're that determined to use muzzle, at least use one that is designed for pets (such as a wirebasket model), made and properly fitted by a QUALIFIED maker. I would surmise that would not be you. Kate

Hi Tom, Read this how-to by Bobbie Park (Hidepounder). HE IS THE EDGE FINISHING GURU. We're not worthy! http://leatherworker.net/edging.htm Kate

What is so difficult about putting him in a kennel, as compared to putting a muzzle on him when you have to leave him alone? Kate

The problem is not printing on the transparency. The problem is that the dry ink may not come off on the leather. Same thing with a copier. But I'm only guessing. If it doesn't come off on dry leather, perhaps it could transfer more easily onto cased leather. Dunno... Could you give it a try and let us know if it works or not? Kate

Thirded. (If there is such a thing.) Kate

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that. Kate

Pretty decent macro optics for the money. Were the darker ones done with a reduced exposure, or were you playing with the white balance? Kate

At the moment I have a Canon Pixma inkjet printer. Before that I had an HP inkjet printer. Both printers seem to do this process fine. (I don't recommend HP any longer, however, for other reasons.) Kate

What I do is different from all these other methods, and doesn't depend on tracing or drawing skills. It does depend on keeping your artwork on your computer. I basically print the pattern onto the leather by doing the following: Print the pattern onto a sheet of transparency film. Before the ink has a chance to dry much (say, within 10-15 minutes), turn the sheet over (yes, ink-side down) onto a piece of dry leather, and rub over it with the smooth side of a modeling spoon, or anything with a smooth, curved surface (like, even a table spoon). Do not do this on cased leather, or you'll have a mess; dry leather only. Also, make sure the film does not shift around while you're rubbing the pattern on. This transfers the pattern perfectly and effortlessly in less than 5 minutes! Let the leather sit for about 15 minutes before casing and carving. When you're done with the transfer, you can just wipe the remaining ink off the transparency and re-use it pretty much an unlimited number of times. Kate

I second that. Just like buying a computer. I can't begin to count the number of people who have asked me what kind of a computer to buy without any idea of what software they plan to run, or what they want to use it for. In web sites, there is a lot you can do for very little, these days - set up a blog, make an online brochure, etc. Setting up a site with a shopping cart or a content management system is a little more involved. Kate

That should boost his ego a bit! Maybe you could have taken it another level and put "Killer" on it and added some spikes - ha! Just kidding. Good choice carving the lettering instead of stamping. The letters look good. How did you go about cutting the the outlines of the collar? Kate

How about... Bam-Bam Snaggletooth Bluto Thumper Kate

Lael, welcome to Leatherworker! The sheen will come off easily with water, along with a fair amount of the dye. Not all the dye will come off, but the main thing is to get the finish cleaned off. Maybe follow that with deglazer or acetone to get the finish thoroughly cleaned off. You can add more of the same dye you used, or switch to a spirit dye if you wish. If you change colors, the new color will blend with whatever is left of the old (regardless of whether it's spirit dye or water-based, assuming the first dye is dry when you apply the second dye). The finishes that do the best job of sealing water-based dyes is either wax or lacquer. I've been using Bee-Natural for years now. I get a small amount of dye rub-off when I'm buffing the finish for the first time, but it seems to "cure" and I have not seen any problems after that. Even pouring water on it. There are other treatments you can use that are made for waterproofing boots, that will add more protection to an article that is going to be exposed to a lot of "the elements". Not sure of the exact products for that, but it has been mentioned in other threads. Hope this helps... Kate Kate

That's a very cool machine, Ray! I have a small mechanical clicker press, and I love mine, too. It's quite a different design than yours, though. How many tons of pressure is it rated for? Is there a brand name on it anywhere? Kate

We're telling you now! I'll be there, Thursday thru Sunday. Kate

Could have been just wishful thinking, or maybe it's just that hindsight is always 20/20, and the crystal ball is only good for as far as the headlights will reach. Nice find! Kate

1) Single for spraying over an entire piece. Double for more control over where you want the spray to go. 2) Lots of middle-range products do very well. 3) Iwatas are sweet and do have advantages over the mid-range products. Can't go wrong with that brand. But brands like Badger make quality airbrushing affordable. I've used a Badger for years, and it has done everything I've demanded. Kate

I have a hefty handle, and it does help. I set mine down on the concrete floor in my shop, then pound the crap out of it with a 6lb maul. Perfect impressions every time! Kate

I think it's a clever idea, and would think it would do well at a typical craft fair. Great to use for coffee shop runs. Around here, they're pretty popular. Maybe you could convince the coffee shops to resell them for you. Hmmm.... Kate