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CitizenKate

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Everything posted by CitizenKate

  1. Great tutorial! That is precisely the technique I use in Illustrator. One thing I might add here, Johann... if Inkscape has a feature that allows you to select and move individual anchor points, you don't have to start a line over if you don't get the anchors exactly where you want them. Just finish the line with the mis-placed anchors, then go back later and nudge them around where you need them. That might save you some time. Kate
  2. Great article. I totally identify with the author's observations. Kate
  3. Glad you could use it. I like the carving pattern you used on this, and the trim pieces on the ends are a nice touch. Kate
  4. Here's a link to that original thread, Tim. Looks like several products were mentioned. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...amp;hl=neat+lac Kate
  5. I've never made a pair of chaps before, so I'm not sure how to determine the amount of material you need. Maybe someone who makes chaps can chime in here... I do know that 14-16oz sole bend would make quite a heavy, stiff pair of chaps! Leather normally used to make chaps is much lighter and more supple. I think most people who use the sole bends to make armor usually form a piece of armor into articulated segments. Again, there are others here who have more experience making leather armor than I do, so hopefully they will check in and comment further. I added a sub-title to your topic so it's easier for others to see we are discussing leather armor here. Kate
  6. The math is not that difficult, really. The leather is 14-16oz per square foot. 16oz = 1lb. So if it were 16oz leather, that's exactly 1lb/sq. ft., and you'd be getting 12-15 square feet. If it's closer to 14oz leather, it's .875lbs/sq. ft. Multiply 12 or 15 by .875 to get 10.5 to about 13 square feet. Kate
  7. Sorry to hear about your back problems.... wow, you've been parachuting? Sounds like the docs are trying to get you to rest your back. Sometimes, that's just the only way to heal. So just take it easy and get well. You can still type, though, right? No need to be a stranger just because you don't have something to post every week. Kate
  8. I really like that blue one. How did you color the wood on that? And now that I've attempted some leather-on-wood inlay work, I can really appreciate a good, tight-fitting inlay when I see one. Nice work, ma'am! Kate
  9. Your work looks very professional, RB, especially the gun holsters and belts. (Votre travail semble très professionnel, RB, en particulier les étuis d'armes et de ceintures.) Kate
  10. A few years back, I did experiment a little with ways to make leather game pieces for different games, including Chess. So many possibilities! But I couldn't seem to come up with anything that could hold a candle to some of the beautiful carved sets you see from House of Staunton or other game houses. Decided to stick with the boards. I'd love to see some ideas the rest of you might have, though. Kate
  11. Oooooo, my goodness! I love everything I've seen you post here, but this one really shines. Thanks for letting us have a look at that! Kate
  12. Nice finger cuts in that 3rd photo! Kate
  13. Ray, congratulations on your success! I think you have reached some major milestones for sure. Kate
  14. Oui, nous aimons voir des images ! Nous sommes heureux que vous nous ayez joints. Yes, we like to see images! We are happy that you have joined us. (translated with the help of Babel Fish) Kate
  15. I use line 20 snaps, and those work pretty well for bracelets and wrist cuffs. Kate
  16. OOOPS!!! All you chess players probably noticed this already... I've got the pieces set up wrong on the table! I do know something about the game... really, I do. Kate
  17. Josh, that was done with an M657 matting stamp. The stamp is rotated as it is walked around the area to give it a more random pattern. Kate
  18. As a matter of fact, that is one of my many lessons from this project. If you cut the leather to the perfect size, it's probably too small. On this project, cutting it about 1/8" larger in diameter would have made it perfect. Cementing the inlay was the big challenge. I'd love to see a demo of your method, Bob. It sounds like you found a much easier way to do this than I did. Do you apply cement to the center first, or one edge? Thanks so much for the kind words, everyone. Kate
  19. You had me at: "Thanks for teaching me to keep trying new things." Which of course is what my dad always did, too. Thanks for sharing that. Kate
  20. I resemble that remark. Kate
  21. Finally got this project out of my workspace! This is an occasional table I bought from the unfinished furniture store. I milled the top with a router to create a recess for a leather inlay. It took me a couple of tries to get the inlay cut to just the right size to fit tightly into the space I made for it. Even this one doesn't fit as well as I would like... you may notice a slight gap between the edge of the leather and the rim I left around the top. A lot of good lessons learned on this project on doing inlays! Sorry for the poor photos... it was too big to get into either of my light boxes, so I had to use available lighting, which was not that great. Kate
  22. Johanna does, along with a bunch of photos. She's recovering from the trip today, but I'm sure she'll be posting something very soon. Kate
  23. Um... wrist bone? Just kidding. Those bones in your wrist are called "carpals". Kate
  24. The "medium" wrist bands I make fit wrist sizes 7" - 7.5". My wrist is 6.5", but I like my wrist bands a little on the loose side, so a 7" wrist band or bracelet is what I wear. Kate
  25. Depends on the type of cancer and a lot of other things, but at stage 0-1, her odds are better. It means it was caught early, which is a HUGE factor in her favor. Treatments are advancing at light speed. It's getting easier, and there are more and more survivors, these days. Please let us know how she's doing. And thanks for what you are doing to raise awareness. Kate
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