CitizenKate

Well, here are some of my random thoughts... I apologize for the length of this post. Thought 1: This site cannot be everything to everyone. The wider the scope of topics we try to accommodate, the more the quality and depth of content will suffer. Up until now, we've pretty much allowed any topic to be discussed in the "off-topic" forum, and it's worked okay, but more and more people are finding stuff in there they don't want to see, mixed in with the stuff they do want to see, with no way to distinguish them until they've already wasted time reading it. So we have two choices. We can create a separate forum to help people more easily distinguish between groups of topics. Or we can decide not to include the topic any longer. Since our primary dedication here is to share and learn about working with leather, it's my opinion that anything outside of that should be considered more strongly for omission. Thought 2: I understand that some people need a place to vent their frustration with the government, politicians, various groups, or just love to chew the fat on political topics. There are other people who just want a place to preach politics. Nothing at all wrong with any of that. If I want to participate in a political forum (with all the rants, preaching, debating, and accusations you can stand), there are way better places on the Internet to do that. Is that really what we want people to start coming here for? Thought 3: A few people here have said they would be in favor of having a section where anyone can literally discuss anything "... as long as it doesn't get personal," and "... as long as you go in there with a thick hide." When you have a membership as diverse as this one, and you post a rant about some group, any group (gender, nationality, race, religion, profession, age group, sexual orientation, you name it), chances are very good that we will have members who are in that group. The vast majority of us who visit this forum have matured to the point where we don't allow what someone says about us or some group we belong to affect us. We have seen in the last few days that not every single person visiting here has reached that level of maturity. The fact of the matter is, these topics do become personal, very quickly. There are also a few people whose idea of a "thick hide" is being able to deliver the most venom. My concern is that an "anything goes" topic may end up becoming a magnet for people who are just looking for a place to play out some unhealthy aggression. Thought 4: We have allowed some very controversial discussions to continue completely un-moderated because the individuals focused on facts, ideas, and particulars of the issue, rather than on personalities or motives, or resorted to name-calling or personal insults. This is one place where this is allowed to go on almost daily, regardless of the personal views of any of the staff, because controversy does have value to the membership at large, and it is highly relevant. Meanwhile, there is teaching going on, new demos being posted, questions being answered, ideas being shared... I personally would much rather focus on all of this. That being said, Johanna, I'll support whatever you decide. But if we do this, I too would like it to be set up like the adult section. Kate

When I'm applying dyes with a bristle brush, once I've made a few passes to get the overall color how I want it, I then go after the lighter spots with the brush loaded lighter/dryer. I dab more color into those areas, then blend the strokes from wet to dry to get them to blend with the surrounding area. Kate

Very nice, Tina! The boo-boo notwithstanding, your work gets more stunning with every project. Kate

Ed, those markings look like fat wrinkles to me. Personally, I LOVE them! They add so much character to a project. Nice carving, by the way. Kate

Good for you, Tom!!! Never know what this will lead to, huh? I'll be watching... Kate

I do every chance I get, which unfortunately until now has not been very often. But I know what you mean. The first good swivel knife I got was for very intricate carving, like small letters or tight, curvy knot patterns. It, too, is very light and comfortable, and the small, thin blade makes it easy to cut very accurately. I think that one is a bit under-rated, I really have enjoyed using it. The only thing giving me cramps lately is the mallet I'm using, since the 20oz maul my brother-in-law made me out of wood got pounded into splinters. It sure was great while it lasted. I could pound all day and not feel any joint stress. Now, I've got a 20oz. BK maul on the way. That one should last just a bit longer. Kate

I really like it for its uniqueness. I've never thought about using swivel knife cuts to create textures like those. Kate

2 oz. color cups should be fine for smaller projects. I use that size to spray finishes on my 24"x24" game boards, and 2 oz. is just about the amount that takes. If you're doing dyes with it, get several, so you don't have to be constantly filling and emptying them with different dye colors. Kate

Sorry for not noticing this until today... The compressor accessories I use with my air brushes are the following: - Long compressor hose (to allow placing it some distance away from where I'm spraying - safety recommendation from the manufacturer) - Moisture filter, to prevent condensation from getting into the hose and eventually onto your work (that has a way of ruining your day). It looks like the NT compressor you're considering comes with a moisture filter, so you might want to confirm that before buying a separate one. - I have quick-change couplers, but that's so I can also use my compressor to inflate tires, and run other air-powered tools that I have. If you only plan to use the compressor with your air brush, you probably won't get much benefit from them. - I'm not sure what is included with the brush you plan to buy, but you will probably need to get an airbrush hose to attach to your compressor hose. The airbrush hose usually comes with an adapter to connect the two hoses together. As for the spray booth, I've got a home-built one. Several people here have built their own, and one existing topic includes information on that. I've been working on putting together some more complete information about that, and plan to post it sometime in the (hopefully near) future. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...ray+booth\ That should get you started. Have I overlooked anything else, guys? Kate

Those are really sharp, Heather! Kate

I think the reason the dye manufacturers don't state a general time frame to allow dyes to dry is that there are so many variables. In my environment, when it's warm and humid, I may have to allow an hour or more for water-based dyes to get completely dry. Spirit-based dyes, much less. The tip that Ed (BearMan) posted is the rule-of-thumb that I go by. It may feel dry on the surface, but if you feel any coolness from the leather, it still has moisture in it. Kate

Just thought I'd add some handy links to your auctions to make them easier to get to from here (minus the duplicate): 170316931559 170316937382 170316941515 170316943040 170316943890 170316948861 170316958185 170316962313 Kate

They don't keep the information on that page up to date, so you'll need to contact them for current pricing. At least the contact info is still current. I use different barrel sizes for different purposes. In general, the 1/2" barrel (with a straight blade) is great for better control on those straight lines and wider curves. I use the 3/8" barrel (with an angled blade) for tight curves and decorative cuts. I have seen some notable exceptions to these parameters. Some guys can do some incredible things with those fat, straight blades. I am not one of them. LOL Kate

Small, thin, angled blades for me, too, on the small letters. I also have a very tiny beveler for beveling around all the very tight curves you get with small letters. Kate

Jessi definitely does have an eye for design. What a great collaboration. My dad and I used to put our heads together on stuff like this, too, and those are my fondest memories of him. Kate

True, a better swivel knife does take a lot of the effort out of carving. Still doesn't fix the problem (which I still have been known to have on occasion) of not knowing where to steer it. Heheh! I've been admiring those Wrangler knives. I may end up adding one of those to my collection yet. Kate

You can order them straight from the manufacturer. They are very nice to deal with. You can find product and contact information at this site: http://gemosphere.tripod.com/GEMOSPHERE/Swivel_Knivesx.html. Kate

Here's a thread started by another of our members, Dale Elad, who has made Drizzt armour. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...amp;#entry22034 Maybe he can give you some pointers. Kate

I've been using mostly just ordinary Craftool swivel knives for years. I don't subscribe to the theory that better tools necessarily make for better work. So I have focused more on improving the part that holds the knife. I did get one 3/8" Magnum with a 1/4" angle blade on sale from Hidecrafter a few years ago to do more intricate carving, and it has worked very well for that. (That's the one on the right in the photo.) Recently, I just decided I wanted something nice for my hands as a reward for all the work they do, and ordered a Henley 1/2" with a hollow-cut blade. It is really a pleasure to use this knife, because of how smoothly it turns, and the hollow-cut blade makes a very nice stroke in the leather. These blades really hold their edge, too, so I don't spend as much time stropping. Of all the knives I have personally used, this one is my favorite. I also ordered a 3/8" stainless steel knife with a hollow-cut angle blade from Springfield Leather. I think this must be a knock-off of the Henley, because it's almost identical in appearance, except not quite as well-made. Even so, it also is very nice to use. It's what I use for decorative cuts. I have no idea who actually made this knife, but I understand they are no longer made. Kate

That's a great approach with black tooled leather, rickeyfro. Highlight the raised areas with a lighter, opaque color. I'm curious to know how you applied the gray. That has always been a challenge for me. Also, just for fun, try something metallic sometime! Kate

I would be interested in knowing that, too. I passed on it earlier, because I didn't know if it would have enough power to grind stainless steel bolts (to make stamps). Kate

It's beautiful, Karl! As far as the design/styling goes, I would carry one like that in a heartbeat. ...and probably wave it around to make sure everyone notices! Kate PS: Very happy to hear your Aunt is recovering!

If that is your first project, then I would say you have some talent. Did you also do the scroll design? Kate

I've never made shoes before, but to my eyes, the work is very fine, especially knowing the experience of the maker. I read the history page on the Melker Shoes and Boots web site. What a great tradition your family has built! Kate

This is great so far! You shot some nice tight photo sequences. Can't wait to see how it comes out. Thanks for taking the time to show us how to do this. Kate