CitizenKate

Ed, those markings look like fat wrinkles to me. Personally, I LOVE them! They add so much character to a project. Nice carving, by the way. Kate

Good for you, Tom!!! Never know what this will lead to, huh? I'll be watching... Kate

I do every chance I get, which unfortunately until now has not been very often. But I know what you mean. The first good swivel knife I got was for very intricate carving, like small letters or tight, curvy knot patterns. It, too, is very light and comfortable, and the small, thin blade makes it easy to cut very accurately. I think that one is a bit under-rated, I really have enjoyed using it. The only thing giving me cramps lately is the mallet I'm using, since the 20oz maul my brother-in-law made me out of wood got pounded into splinters. It sure was great while it lasted. I could pound all day and not feel any joint stress. Now, I've got a 20oz. BK maul on the way. That one should last just a bit longer. Kate

I really like it for its uniqueness. I've never thought about using swivel knife cuts to create textures like those. Kate

2 oz. color cups should be fine for smaller projects. I use that size to spray finishes on my 24"x24" game boards, and 2 oz. is just about the amount that takes. If you're doing dyes with it, get several, so you don't have to be constantly filling and emptying them with different dye colors. Kate

Sorry for not noticing this until today... The compressor accessories I use with my air brushes are the following: - Long compressor hose (to allow placing it some distance away from where I'm spraying - safety recommendation from the manufacturer) - Moisture filter, to prevent condensation from getting into the hose and eventually onto your work (that has a way of ruining your day). It looks like the NT compressor you're considering comes with a moisture filter, so you might want to confirm that before buying a separate one. - I have quick-change couplers, but that's so I can also use my compressor to inflate tires, and run other air-powered tools that I have. If you only plan to use the compressor with your air brush, you probably won't get much benefit from them. - I'm not sure what is included with the brush you plan to buy, but you will probably need to get an airbrush hose to attach to your compressor hose. The airbrush hose usually comes with an adapter to connect the two hoses together. As for the spray booth, I've got a home-built one. Several people here have built their own, and one existing topic includes information on that. I've been working on putting together some more complete information about that, and plan to post it sometime in the (hopefully near) future. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...ray+booth\ That should get you started. Have I overlooked anything else, guys? Kate

Those are really sharp, Heather! Kate

I think the reason the dye manufacturers don't state a general time frame to allow dyes to dry is that there are so many variables. In my environment, when it's warm and humid, I may have to allow an hour or more for water-based dyes to get completely dry. Spirit-based dyes, much less. The tip that Ed (BearMan) posted is the rule-of-thumb that I go by. It may feel dry on the surface, but if you feel any coolness from the leather, it still has moisture in it. Kate

Just thought I'd add some handy links to your auctions to make them easier to get to from here (minus the duplicate): 170316931559 170316937382 170316941515 170316943040 170316943890 170316948861 170316958185 170316962313 Kate

They don't keep the information on that page up to date, so you'll need to contact them for current pricing. At least the contact info is still current. I use different barrel sizes for different purposes. In general, the 1/2" barrel (with a straight blade) is great for better control on those straight lines and wider curves. I use the 3/8" barrel (with an angled blade) for tight curves and decorative cuts. I have seen some notable exceptions to these parameters. Some guys can do some incredible things with those fat, straight blades. I am not one of them. LOL Kate

Small, thin, angled blades for me, too, on the small letters. I also have a very tiny beveler for beveling around all the very tight curves you get with small letters. Kate

Jessi definitely does have an eye for design. What a great collaboration. My dad and I used to put our heads together on stuff like this, too, and those are my fondest memories of him. Kate

True, a better swivel knife does take a lot of the effort out of carving. Still doesn't fix the problem (which I still have been known to have on occasion) of not knowing where to steer it. Heheh! I've been admiring those Wrangler knives. I may end up adding one of those to my collection yet. Kate

You can order them straight from the manufacturer. They are very nice to deal with. You can find product and contact information at this site: http://gemosphere.tripod.com/GEMOSPHERE/Swivel_Knivesx.html. Kate

Here's a thread started by another of our members, Dale Elad, who has made Drizzt armour. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...amp;#entry22034 Maybe he can give you some pointers. Kate

I've been using mostly just ordinary Craftool swivel knives for years. I don't subscribe to the theory that better tools necessarily make for better work. So I have focused more on improving the part that holds the knife. I did get one 3/8" Magnum with a 1/4" angle blade on sale from Hidecrafter a few years ago to do more intricate carving, and it has worked very well for that. (That's the one on the right in the photo.) Recently, I just decided I wanted something nice for my hands as a reward for all the work they do, and ordered a Henley 1/2" with a hollow-cut blade. It is really a pleasure to use this knife, because of how smoothly it turns, and the hollow-cut blade makes a very nice stroke in the leather. These blades really hold their edge, too, so I don't spend as much time stropping. Of all the knives I have personally used, this one is my favorite. I also ordered a 3/8" stainless steel knife with a hollow-cut angle blade from Springfield Leather. I think this must be a knock-off of the Henley, because it's almost identical in appearance, except not quite as well-made. Even so, it also is very nice to use. It's what I use for decorative cuts. I have no idea who actually made this knife, but I understand they are no longer made. Kate

That's a great approach with black tooled leather, rickeyfro. Highlight the raised areas with a lighter, opaque color. I'm curious to know how you applied the gray. That has always been a challenge for me. Also, just for fun, try something metallic sometime! Kate

I would be interested in knowing that, too. I passed on it earlier, because I didn't know if it would have enough power to grind stainless steel bolts (to make stamps). Kate

It's beautiful, Karl! As far as the design/styling goes, I would carry one like that in a heartbeat. ...and probably wave it around to make sure everyone notices! Kate PS: Very happy to hear your Aunt is recovering!

If that is your first project, then I would say you have some talent. Did you also do the scroll design? Kate

I've never made shoes before, but to my eyes, the work is very fine, especially knowing the experience of the maker. I read the history page on the Melker Shoes and Boots web site. What a great tradition your family has built! Kate

This is great so far! You shot some nice tight photo sequences. Can't wait to see how it comes out. Thanks for taking the time to show us how to do this. Kate

Those appear to my eye to be made from molded plastic. You can make molded plastic parts with Alumilite. It's a very versatile material, and easy to use. It's available in most hobby stores (Hobby Lobby has it). Visit their web site to see their how-to's and other information on how to use it to make molded plastic parts. Kate

During one workshop I took with Peter, he showed us some of his tools that he had removed the chrome plating from. My notes say: "Remove the chrome with a propane torch and steel brush, then buff." I tried this method, and was indeed able to remove the chrome from some of my tools without much difficulty at all, and without causing any damage to the underlying metal. It is possible to damage the tool if you get too carried away with the heat or the brushing. Kate

Stunning! ...and humbling. Another thing on my list of things to learn to do better. Hmmm... it's getting to be a pretty long list. Kate