CitizenKate

Ben, I've made quite a few checkbook covers from softer, lighter leather, and I agree with electrathon about not lining it with something that heavy. It really doesn't take much to firm up a light, soft material, even something as light as a satin fabric. You can also just make the pockets out of something a little stiffer, but light, such as calfskin, or a light veg-tanned goatskin, and just that alone will give the item a firmer hand, while leaving the spine nice and supple. Kate Amended: Oops, I should have read further down in the thread before responding. It looks like you're already headed that direction. Cheers!

Oooooo! I don't remember seeing the finger cuts on the bottom on your previous projects... is that something new or have I just not been paying attention? Either way, beautiful work, as always! Kate

Heya, Mitch, glad to have you. Make yourself at home. Look forward to seeing your work... Kate

That "much needed wifely support" often times comes in the form of uncontrollable laughter. Approval and affirmation are patronizing and over-rated. But I can laugh at that one, since I also had an accident with a stitching awl that put it right through my forearm muscle. And it wasn't even out of the package yet! The worst one that almost happened to me was when I first got my table saw. I had never owned or used one before. I had read enough of the manual to get it set up and adjusted to run, but was too anxious to try it out to read much more. Bad idea! I got it all set up, adjusted the alignment of the guard, plugged it in, and grabbed a 2x4 to make a test cut. I had the blade set too high, so when it got close to the end of the cut, the wood got kicked back out of the saw blade with enough force to make a dent in the wall 20 ft behind me. Fwing! Thud! Fortunately, I had just moved to one side of the saw blade for some reason I no longer remember, but I was standing right in front of it when I started the cut. Hmmmm... Note to self: It's probably a good idea not to stand in front of the blade when cutting. I turned off the saw, took the manual, and read the entire thing from front to back, word for word. And since that time, I've NEVER operated a power tool without thoroughly reading and completely understanding all the safety precautions. Kate

If you navigate to the front page of this site, be sure to turn the volume down on your computer's speakers. Unless you don't mind getting blown out your chair with a sudden blast of loud music. Kate

It has a neutral color. I use it on top of dyes and antiques all the time. Kate

Great tip from another guy who does awesome filigree work - thanks, Elton! Kate

Kiwi! NICE work! Kate

I agree, but I also think it's a good reflection on John that he is seeking a way to distinguish his own work without badmouthing the competition. Kate

Regardless of what terminology the seller and/or maker choose to describe the work, one is in fact done with a machine, and the other is done with hand-held tools. From the buyer's perspective, the difference it would make to them, is that the work done by hand will have more depth and clarity, and will hold up better over time. Kate

Ha! You Brits really know how to put on a gag! That was fun! Kate

The tubes became dull after just one project? Kate

Mine's on the way, too. Got the design, now I just have to work around cold weather in the shop. Kate

Oo! Oo! I figured that one out! (After some bad mistakes, mind you! ) I'm not sure why a 7.5-inch strip of leather doesn't fit around a 6.5-inch wrist. I've just accepted that it doesn't and have moved on. Here's what worked for me: Take a piece of poster board, and cut a 2 or 3-inch wide strip about 12-inches long. Then take a ruler and mark a 1/8"-inch grid along one edge of the strip. It helps to put major divisions at the 1-inch and 1/4-inch marks. This is your size model. Now, when you want to determine what length of leather (allowing for snaps, etc.) will fit a particular wrist size, just wrap your size model to the size you need, then wrap a piece of leather around it. Works every time! Kate

I've had all of them at one time or another, and the pro is still with me after many years of use. The "economy" and "deluxe" are both made from formed sheet metal. Handles on both are hollow. The only difference between the economy and deluxe is, the deluxe has plastic handle covers that cushion the handle a bit. The "pro" is solid forged stainless steel, a far better quality tool. Kate

Really? Huh... I'm going to have to try that. I have to admit, when I saw the title of your topic, I expected to click on it and see a bunch of chewed-up looking edges, but that is nice and clean. Congratulations on a great piece. Thanks for posting. Kate

In addition to Clay's excellent demo on oak leaf carving, those of you interested in carving oak leaves can also check out a photo demo I also did awhile back on carving oak leaves. This is in a different style oak leaf than the one Clay did. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9341 Kate

We need pictures! We need pictures!!! Kate PS: That is awesome! Congratulations!

Impressive - thanks, George! I was almost afraid to look. Glad to see your re-enactment buddies also choose to keep their plaids on in battle, these days. Hooo... I wanted to see the whole uniform and almost got a little more than I bargained for - heheh! But I do love it when a post like this awakens me to a little history and culture. That bit about straight lasted shoes is interesting, too. I didn't know left and right shoes were such a recent development in footwear. Kate

Yeah, I forgot to mention that... I've also gotten some sides (from other tanneries) that were like that around the belly. W&C's overstock sale is on until the 31st of January. Kate

Glad to know you are finding information that is helpful to you, Steve. We'd love to see some of your work! Kate

Seeing this piqued my interest in the history behind the shoes. I was curious to see the rest of the uniform, and found an interesting article in wikipedia on the Jacobite Rising of the 17th and 18th centuries. (Other than what I read here, I know nothing about it.) I had to chuckle when I got to an image of a painting showing the Battle of Culloden with the following caption: "Morier's painting Culloden shows the highlanders still wearing the plaids which they normally set aside before battle, where they would fire a volley then run full tilt at the enemy with broadsword and targe in the "Highland charge" wearing only their shirts." ...and their Jacobite shoes, no doubt! Is that confidence, or what??? Kate

Second that, Marlon. Jake, you're HIRED! Kate

I think I've gone through about 20-30 Oak Leaf sides, and none of them behaved the way you're describing. All the ones I have gotten are fairly nice. That was mostly what I used for a couple of years. I still like it for some things. Nowadays, I use mostly the W&C #2 grade tooling sides, and they are quite good, better than the "premium" sides I've gotten from other vendors. I like it a LOT. I recently took them up on their $90/side sale for the #3 grade sides. I haven't tried any of these yet, so I hope I don't regret getting two of the lower-grade. Kate

I use one of these occasionally to lock-stitch pieces of soft leather together. It's okay to use when the stitches will not be that visible (such as a soft leather bag, in which the seams are turned out), and if the seams of the item are not going to be subject to a lot of stress. But for most of my sewn pieces, I prefer a saddle stitch. This is just my own preference. I'm sure others have applications for it that I haven't thought of... Kate