celticleather

He doesn't know it yet, but I'm going to be even nearer to him next week . . . only about 40 miles down the road. Just say nothing - perhaps he won't notice!

I suspect we may be in for a bit of a lambasting!

Luke Please forgive me for messing around with your picture . . . I just couldn't resist! Terry

Some answers for Swivelsphinx, Luke and SOSHorses The image is embossed, not carved. I've developed a technique for making flexible plastic dies, using artwork that I create in CorelDraw. I can use whatever fonts I fancy, but fairly plain lettering works best. The image is embossed into the surface of the cased leather. The tricky part is dyeing the leather without allowing the dye to migrate into the embossing. This is achieved by using a very tightly balled pad of lint-free cotton, with just enough dye to colour the surface of the leather, and a very light touch. It can take a while to build up the colour, but patience is the only way to avoid the dye flooding the image. The picture below is the die that I used for the wallet. Terry

Denise - Here's a little taste of what it is that makes the All Blacks scary . . . but great fun!

Rugby is a hooligans' game, played by gentlemen. Football is a gentlemen's game, played by hooligans. Thanks for your kind comments, chaps!

Here's a strictly one-off wallet I've made for a guy who seems to think the All Blacks are something special. I'm not going to argue with him . . . he's built like a brick privvy!

Ray When I bought my 45k from David Flint he supplied it on a Wimsew table, which has castors and a brake. He also very skilfully jigsawed a cutaway to the left of the machine to allow for large items to be sewn. The cut-out piece can be quickly placed back in position as required. I can't find the table on Wimsew's website (http://wimsew.co.uk/). If all else fails - and Steve's offer sounds good! - it may be worth giving David a call . . . I don't think he's far from you. I've attached a picture of the table that I've borrowed from his eBay listing, but this doesn't have the cut-out. Terry

http://www.lasergiftcreations.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=20

Just what I'm looking for . . . pity you can't just slip it in a Jiffy bag and drop it in the postbox!

I don't think you're quite over the hill yet, Ray! We still use them, once in a very blue moon, to re-stitch the welts on shoes. The pig's bristle has now been replaced with wire - probably something to do with animal rights! - but they still work the same.

Most printers use Melinex or a similar polyester film in the platemaking process, so a little begging may work! Otherwise, any polyester film will serve (Mylar etc) - check on Google.

Here's a method that I've developed for designs that need to be repeated. I use .008" (200 micron) Melinex clear acetate film - it's waterproof, dimensionally stable, and will not distort. 1. Trace the design onto the film with a fine waterproof (spirit-based) pen. 2. Prick through the film with a fine-pointed needle, following the traced lines, with prick-marks about 1mm apart. Don't prick through too deeply . . . just enough to penetrate the film. 3. The prick-marks will raise little 'pimples' on the underside of the film. 4. Position the film, right-side up, onto the cased leather, and rub over gently with the back of a spoon or a smooth burnisher. 5. The pimples on the back of the film are transferred to the leather as a series of dotted lines. 6. Either join the dots with a fine stylus, or carve directly along the dotted lines. If you stray slightly off the line, it's not a problem - the dots will disappear when the design is bevelled. I've found that these 'craftaids' can be used many times over, because the little pimples on the back of the film are not flattened when the design is transferred onto the leather. They take a little time to prepare, but can save an awful lot of tracing time! Edit - I put the prick-marks at 1m apart first time round . . . not very practical!

Ray (and anyone else who's interested!), Have you tried making your own 'Craftaids'? Here's a method that I've developed for designs that need to be repeated. I use .008" (200 micron) Melinex clear acetate film - it's waterproof, dimensionally stable, and will not distort. 1. Trace the design onto the film with a fine waterproof (spirit-based) pen. 2. Prick through the film with a fine-pointed needle, following the traced lines, with prick-marks about 1mm apart. Don't prick through too deeply . . . just enough to penetrate the film. 3. The prick-marks will raise little 'pimples' on the underside of the film. 4. Position the film, right-side up, onto the cased leather, and rub over gently with the back of a spoon or a smooth burnisher. 5. The pimples on the back of the film are transferred to the leather as a series of dotted lines. 6. Either join the dots with a fine stylus, or carve directly along the dotted lines. If you stray slightly off the line, it's not a problem - the dots will disappear when the design is bevelled. I've found that these 'craftaids' can be used many times over, because the little pimples on the back of the film are not flattened when the design is transferred onto the leather. They take a little time to prepare, but can save an awful lot of tracing time! Terry

Ray I spotted this (http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=43273) in our local Maplin store at the weekend. I wonder if it would do the same job as a Dremel, but at a much lower cost - £24.99. Terry

I used to play the stockmarket . . . gone a bit off-key just lately!

Sounds like a job for Bruce Johnson - the Forum's 'splitaholic'!

Ray I read that pdf from Barra a while ago. Although I realised the obvious differences between 'round point' and 'leather point' needles, I never dreamt that there was so much technology wrapped up in sewing machine needles . . . fascinating! I use http://www.college-sewing.co.uk/acatalog/index.html for needles and parts - their range is amazing, so long as you know what you're looking for! Terry

Any chance of a bigger pic? Can't make out the type of closure! Is it this type?

Ray We do quite a lot of this at the shop. I always ensure that the jacket/waistcoat owner is aware that I will be sewing through the lining, and I check that it will not entail stitching through an inside pocket. I stick the patches to the coat with double-sided tape, and stitch as close to the edge of the patch as possible. I've found it best to use the flat table on our 29K, to reduce the risk of the lining puckering. Terry

Oh gosh . . . now I'm blushing!!

Karl Le Prevo have it listed on their clearance page (SP 291 Black Croc). No Idea what it's like, but I guess they'd send a sample. Terry

Ray Take a look at eBay Item No 360077316779 . . . not cheap, but brass is heading towards being a semi-precious metal these days! Terry

There's a tremendous knowledge-base of leatherwork terminology, methods, etc at http://www.kingsmerecrafts.com/page06.html (scroll down to the bottom of the page). It shouldn't take more than a week or two to read through it all!

I cracked this one with a bit of experimentation! I gave the jacket four sprayings with Fiebings Leather Care (similar to Lexol, I think), allowing three days between sprayings for the Leather Care to absorb. It eventually absorbed about a half-litre! I then resprayed all over with black oil dye, and another coat of Leather Care. Two coats of Skidmore's on top, and a good rub-down, and it was like a new jacket! The guy didn't recognise it . . . another happy customer! Thanks to all for your input! Terry