celticleather

Welcome to the forum, Ian! You've made a great start in your leatherworking. We in the UK are outnumbered thousands to one by those in other countries, particularly the US, but they don't seem to hold that against us! It's one of the friendliest places you could hope to land in, and the knowledge and experience that lurks in its pages is boundless!

I can't really comment on US suppliers, but in my opinion it's a good idea to establish a relationship with more than one supplier. As Bree says, no-one has everything and some may be better than others on particular items. I use five or six suppliers here in the UK, but you do need to look out for the minimum order or shipping charges!

Exquisite work!

The restoration was a commission for a guy in the west of England. He's moving lock, stock and barrel (and bellows) to Canada in March. I guess he'll find plenty of use for them over there!

Just ask away whenever you're ready! I have some pictures of the moulding process which may be useful. Terry

I'm currently renovating an old gun-case, and I need to replace the lock (pictured), which has been sacrilegiously opened with a screwdriver! Before my Great Computer Crash of October 2008 I had a reference to a UK manufacturer of traditional solid brass case locks, but now it's gone, and I cannot for the life of me remember who or where it was. If anyone can aid my struggling memory cells, I'd be eternally grateful!

Each year I receive a few requests to renovate old fire bellows - usually in the winter, when people's thoughts turn to cosy log fires! The set that I completed last week were one of the most challenging yet, and I kept a photo-diary of the various stages of the job.I've launched it here in the form of two pdf files over two posts, because there are a lot of pics, and as a single file it exceeds the 1mb limit. See what you think! And here's part 2! Bellows1.pdf Bellows2.pdf Bellows1.pdf Bellows2.pdf

If you're looking for easy and quick, then alum tanning may be a route to follow. The resulting leather is probably not as long-lasting as some, but the tanning process can be condensed into a few days. There's a website here http://www.thefarm.org/charities/i4at/lib2/dressrab.htm that explains the method. Another alternative could be brain tanning, but if your Scouts are inclined to queasiness they may find this difficult to stomach! http://www.braintan.com/articles/furs/george2.html

If the frame in the picture is what you're looking for, they have them at Le Prevo in the UK. They're called Gladstone Bag frames. http://www.leprevo.co.uk/leathergoods.html

Ray Here's a list that I use, if it's any help. The sizes are fixing lengths - from the end of the buckle to the fixing holes. It's not necessarily definitive, and a lot of the sizes are 'same as', but I've found it ok for the most popular makes of dog. I mostly get asked to make collars for labradors, collies, retrievers etc, and wherever possible I try to take the measurements from an existing collar, but I stick to the most common sizes if I'm making for stock. I've used veg-tan a couple of times, but I had a disaster once when I made one for a hefty thug-dog. The wretched creature kept going for a swim, and the collar stretched to the point where it slipped over its head and was useless. Since then I have always used bridle leather. If I cut a fairly short belt from a bridle butt, the offcut is often long enough for a dog collar - minimum waste, maximum profit! Colour-wise, burgundy is very popular, followed by Havana brown, London tan and black. I was once asked to make a collar in pink, but I don't do pink in anything! Terry

Whoops!

Took this pic on my way to the shop this morning - not the type of frozen landscape we're accustomed to here in Hertfordshire! I think I'd have preferred to have been in S Wales with Ray!

Hmmm . . . I think we may be back to the 'two nations divided by a common language' again! In the UK the word 'bum' is most often used to describe the posterior part of the human anatomy, the gluteus maximus. But thinking about it, maybe your way works as well. . ?

Here's me, doing what I do when I'm not leatherworking! (And in bottom right corner!)

You can't beat a shiny bum! . . . although that may not be true for some people . . .

You could try your local motor mechanic, and see if he has 'core plugs' or 'freeze plugs'. These come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but are mostly concave steel discs.

People with more money than sense!

Most of the tanneries I use in the UK are quite happy to supply 'whole backs'. If I buy from a factor, it sometimes means I have to wait for a week or two if they don't carry whole backs as regular stock.

What's this stuff called 'sun', and where can I get some? I seem to have a dim and distant memory of it - something like a bright light in the sky?

I usually use through-dyed bridle leather for dog collars. I once made one from natural veg-tan, and after a while it absorbed oils from the dog's skin, and water from its romps in puddles, and soon looked like a wet rag. I find that bridle leather is more resistant to mistreatment, and more suited to animal applications.

Excellent - thanks for that! I think I was looking for a tool that was bigger and more complicated, but now I can see how it works! Terry

Ed - If you start here http://www.coats.com/ you can work your way through to suppliers in the US using the 'contact us' link. I'm sure they will have a list of suppliers in your area.

Very smart belt, Josh! What is the tool that you've used for the outer borders? I've seen it used quite a lot, but I can't find it in any of my catalogues. I'd appreciate a clue! Terry

You may find it useful to have a read through this thread - http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...pic=7283&hl=

I was interested to read Bruce's comment about using the heaviest end of the leather for the holes in a belt or strap, with the buckle at the lighter or thinner end. The ancient saddler who taught me would always cut a thin strip from the edge of a new bridle butt. He then laid the two ends side-by-side on the bench, and by rubbing his finger across them, would establish which end of the strip was thickest. This was thereafter called the 'best end', and all straps and belts would be cut to ensure that the adjustment holes fell at the 'best end' of the strap. It's a method I still use, and although I usually thin down the buckle turn, I'm still convinced that it gives the strongest possible straps and belts.