Jump to content

Handstitched

Members
  • Posts

    2,817
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Handstitched

  1. @shoepatcher you're right. This is not identical , but close . https://www.ids-la.com/CSM550-Variable-Speed-Servo-Motor-for-Sewing-Machines_p_633.html HS
  2. I do have many people that still do appreciate the hand made item and/or custom made to their specs , but I still have those that say" I can get that online for xxxx$$ " ( cheap cheap in other words) . Perhaps its not going "Going Straight To Hell " , but it certainly has diminished somewhat ( here in west Oz), and I do believe online shopping as attributed to that . Apart from seeing others work Judging at shows, I never see any other leather workers or their work. O'h well, I'll just carry on as usual, educating & promoting the craft HS
  3. I'll only be repeating what I said earlier on this topic : https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/88893-this-art-form-is-going-straight-to-hell/ If only Tandy tried opening in the west and not the east of Oz , they might have had a chance. My leather supplier has a some tools supplies etc. but thats just one supplier of leather supplies....thats it.. just one in all of Perth WA !!! Without them, everything would come from the east. I know there are leather crafters in Perth because I've seen their work when I've Judged at shows , one being the Royal Show ( huge event here in WA) Same here, I have tried, but never worked out That'll be 10 cents now.....thank you .....COVID surcharge HS
  4. I'm guessing you've seen this before? http://www.renia.com/tech_GB_E/320-GB_E.tech.pdf HS
  5. Here in Australia, while some items have taken a bit longer to arrive by 'Australia Post' , I do try to take into account the time it takes for materials to arrive when I order. I also make that clear when customers place orders and I don't always have the materials or hardware . However, recently , I needed reliable heating for my workshop, I placed the order, and my heater came by courier, not ' Oz Post' , it was dropped off at the front gate ( instead of me driving into town to check my mail , no mail box this far out) , and so much quicker than I expected, around 9 days instead of the usual 14-21 days , but it came by air, same as Oz post....go figure? HS
  6. @DustinSmith I guess the only other time I would sometimes line a belt, would be to hide the screws, rivets or pins of concho's studs etc. It just tidies them up and looks more professional . I use 4mm D/butt or shoulder ( 5mm harness also) , and the lining is around 1.2mm, making it quite a sturdy belt by the time its all stitched. Most of my ' bread & butter belts' I make are unlined otherwise . HS
  7. You can get a rubber cement thinner, but have a read of this: http://standdegrees.blogspot.com/2014/02/what-could-be-used-in-place-of-rubber.html Acetone has a low flash point , around 18 - 20 degs C, it also dries your skin out, so wear gloves. I used this stuff for over 10 years in the fibreglass pool industry , that and toluene. Perhaps read the label for instructions or see what its made of, or the best thing to do is to contact the manufacturer for advice. Hope it helps, HS
  8. Found this also, but for a 106, an 'illustrated parts list' https://www.manualslib.com/manual/153768/Singer-111w106.html HS
  9. Parts manuals are harder to find it seems , however, I did find this. Its for a 155, but similar to yours. The site is a bit of a ' dog leg', it took a while to get around it. https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZbsWLkZgK81EJwTRJkzmdwm31ffiSHKqGgk But I'll keep looking HS
  10. @drc9723 Congrats on your purchase, now the fun begins eh? yeh sure, heres are a few links to manuals. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/364308/Singer-111w101.html http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-100-199.html Heres a youtube link, good place to learn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kh2Gc6soutE HS
  11. Theres certainly tension issues somewhere. Have a look at the thread , bottom left, with the tail, you can see the top thread has ' looped' , or as RockyAussie suggested the thread is catching somewhere. It'll be a process of of elimination . I always have the same size thread top & bottom , 180/24 needles , no issues ( touchwood ) . Just a thought. HS
  12. G'day mate, I've had a similar problem , so I tried using my regular rotary hole punch of the same size at both 'ends' of the hole to be punched, if that makes sense . That has helped. Try that on some scraps to practice. It also just takes a bit of practice with oblong punches. Hope that helps a bit Is that a guitar strap you're making? HS
  13. I love that, the 'ulterior motive' and the right to brag & show off a bit Theres plenty of help on here in regards to sewing machines. You would need something fairly heavy for punching bags. If you're not sure, just ask HS
  14. @cocoa G'Day, I found this: Theres some good advice by ' Wizcrafts' . Hope it helps I was offered one of those years ago for $650-Au in my 'early days' . But as its mainly for fur, or so I thought, I didn't buy it, apart from the price, a bit steep. But if I see one again, at a good price, I might reconsider. HS
  15. @Zinon G'day, Wow !! What a project you're taking on . I don't know much about them, but this is straight from wiki in regards to its contents. Some are filled with air or water, I didn't know that .....yey, I learnt something today Hope it helps, even just a bit to get you started. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punching_bag I guess they would be around 50-60 kg's ? So you would need some pretty hefty hardware for it hang from the roof . I'm sure someone on here that likes to exercise can answer that ? HS
  16. Its a shame I saw this post so late, I would have suggested to take the brave step and enter the world of leather. You never know where it may lead you HS
  17. @OlivesNLimes Firstly, welcome to the world of leather. Look forward to seeing your work. Zuludog is correct. They are quality mauls/ mallets . When choosing a maul, just try in your hand. Is it heavy or light enough ? But if you're on a budget, this is what I use. They're just rubber mallets, well used. . The one on the left, is about 9 oz, I use that for heavy stamps, 3D etc. one on the right, about 6 oz , I use that for everything else. Its actually from the toy section in a discount shop, but works fine. HS
  18. @Bert51 or the good ol' ' Glen 20 ' Must be similar products in Denmark no doubt. HS
  19. @Bert51 Theres a saying, " poverty is owning a horse" . My Mum wants a donkey....God knows why, ....she has Dad Aw geeeez !!!!!!!! HS
  20. Ha ha !! Thats funny It'll cost the owner an even bigger fortune !! Now now, be nice Um, tastes a bit sweeter that a regular steak......apparently ......sshh !! Not always. Depending on the repair. The smallest repair starts at $10 au. @chrisash . Winter rugs new, around the $100- $120 up to the $300+ mark, Australian $$ depending on brand.Summer rugs around half that . But after repairing countless rugs over the years, they're all pretty much made the same....... they certainly get destroyed just the same . I don't think a horse can tell the difference between a $120 rug or a $300 rug I don't wash these. I don't have the facilities. If they are really dirty, I give them a good scrub down with a heavy brush. My machine is cleaned & serviced frequently .I can pick up and deliver , within my town,or make arrangements further out ( I haven't done so yet , but its there) , but people know me quite well, they know where to find me, they phone or text me ahead and drop them off. And because I know them quite well, I try to come up with a fair price. I now have repeat customers . Thats the goodwill I've developed and maintained . Things have gone a bit quiet because of covid, but otherwise I've earnt a good wage doing just rugs. HS
  21. How about a laundry or bathroom grade disinfectant ? Either liquid or spray. May not ( all ) have alcohol, but I would think that theres enough chemicals in them that would do the job ? Using a leather conditioner/ spray straight after , won't do any harm either. HS
  22. @ivan7342 Looks like it was airbrushed ? A base dye on the bottom including the logo , say , yellow, gold, or something light, and a dark colour around the edge.Not sure how he's done the logo, looks very ' neat' unless he's got a stamp made up. Got to be careful about using logo's . You could always ask , theres a link to the web, what harm can it do to ask ? HS
  23. G'Day, wow, its been two years since I posted that, time flies when you're having fun eh? The next examples aren't the worst I've ever done, but the top one ' Rugz', came full circle. I sold it brand new less than a month ago, it came back in a bit of a mess . I'm curious as to how they get so badly damaged. I wonder what goes through a horses mind?? " I don't care how much my owner paid for this rug........I'm gonna destroy it anyway....' roll roll roll...catch it on a fence.... ker-ping!! ..rrrrrip......there goes the belly strap !!! .....this is wonderful...I'm costing my owner a fortune and I don't care ....woo hoo !!!' " Not complaining, keeps me in business HS
  24. well, this topic changed pretty quick eh ?
  25. @Spyros I have a full time business, and the fact its a ' hobby turned business' doesn't take away the joy of the craft, turning a blank piece of leather onto something beautiful and practical , and I don't call myself a 'pro' , not by any stretch, but the machines do come in handy . They help speed things up...and help achieve the picture in my head .......that I've seen somewhere on the web no doubt. But I still practice the traditional way of doing things. Molding leather by hand, cutting , crafting, shaping, assembling and stitching all by hand . Al Stohlman taught me that HS
×
×
  • Create New...