keithski122

I have one although not used it enough to really comment. Bought it for a good price £550 so about 700 usd.I did have to get it set up by an engineer when I first got it though it might have been that I just didn't have the knife sharp enough.Like everyones comments I've read about bell knife skivers its a lot of learning on how to use them, I'm still working on this! I'm going to add an extra motor to mine sometime so I can control the feed while the knife is a fixed speed. I can do a fixed thickness cut though it always seems a bit thin so I'm working on a tapered cut.Both about 10mm in from the edge for use as seam allowance on upholstery.As yet I wouldn't be confident to use it to thin a whole piece such as a strip of piping. As yet I do not regret buying it as such machine rarely come up for sale at this price.

Mine were a standard m5. I did have to make my own bracket though as the back of my machine is not vertical but angled.

Nothing in particular, I have the global version of this machine and had it set up by an engineer however I'm afraid to touch any setting on it now it works.Always nice to have as much information as possible.Mine has the scraper on it but the spring has come unattatched so I need to work out where it was fitted and refix it.Thanks for the manual, its far better than the one supplied with my machine.

Nice trouble shooting chart Lil Doodler.Have you got any other pages that may be useful?

Check out this thread .On it I posted some pics I had found on instagram of a suction system. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/86653-help-a-guy-out-with-his-new-skiving-machine/

Check out this thread .On it I posted some pics I had found on instagram of a suction system. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/86653-help-a-guy-out-with-his-new-skiving-machine/

With the skiver I've found that if I do short lengths it needs cleaning out from the blade, however if I do longer runs then gravity will drop it out the bottom.

Not tried anything yet but did find in the engineers manual for a juki 2810 that this can be an issue for that machine if it is the standard gauge (I guess singer style foot), the fix is to set the foot height 4mm lower.Something for me to look at.

Ok. Checked needle height and is set correctly.Tried rotating needle bar but it put the rear edge too close to the foot and causes clearance issues, it also seems to move needle too close to the edge of the hole in the inner foot.On hand lift clearance is good its only when I use the extra lift.I need to check if I can alter the outer foot lift to lower or redrill guide hole in needle bar further to the right then clearance the left side.

I have sewn vinyl to 3mm mdf using a juki 563, no special needle and my usual 20 thread.

Forums are great! I don't like grinding things away but don't want to cause damage with the foot hitting the needle bar. This machine has a needle clamp fitted to the needle bar and I had looked at turning it but it is pinned to the needle bar so won't turn............I hadn't thought about turning the needle bar though! Don't want to change needles as we have a few machines at work which all use the same, also going to a longer needle will cause more needle flex and likely more needle breakage. Another idea was to grind the guide back and fit a wire guide from a different machine. After posting I did have the idea to check needle bar height which I will do tomorrow as well as turning the bar. I will report back with the results.

Using my new to me sewing machine and its a treat to use.Its one with a knob on the top to alter the maximum foot lift for thicker materials and also an electrical switch to do the same, however I've noticed when sewing on thicker materials or with the height on full the outer foot hits on the needle bar thread guide.Will I cause issues if I grind the guide back so there is no hole there anymore. I think its been clearanced before but not enough.I don't want to clearance the foot as I have loads that I use and don't want to do them all.

Needle and thread and hand , sew up through the hole, over the skipped stitch, back down through the hole and tie off.This is in upholstery so the underside is not visible.

Thank you. So many features that I'll probably never use but the machine sews lovely.

Bit of an update.I ended up buying this machine, paid a shade under £800 which mr google says is just under $1000.Really pleased with the purchase, just need to work out haw all the electronic stuff works.Also found out that it is also the same as a brother LS2-B891-705.

Found some pics on instagram of a skiver that someone had converted to vacuum collection so I thought they might be useful.

Gregg you are a star. Thanks to all for helping. I can see the similarities with durkopp, couldn't find any referance on google to the brother machine, its the same as the one posted by chris however it looks like it might have a singer style foot.I can find no online manual for the typical machine so was looking to see what it might be cloned from in the hope of finding a manual. Looking at buying this if I can get a reply from the seller.

As the title does anybody know what this might be a clone of? Single needle, walking foot, large bobbin.

Again thanks for the replies. I'm in the uk and work as an auto upholsterer.Previously I worked for 25 years as a mechanic so am used to having to buy my own tools to do a job, I would obviously prefer not to but like to do the best job I can, a better machine would go through thicker material easier, longer stitch length, less likely to jam up, etc. I have my own skiving machine and material steamer already.I'm looking at a global version of the juki 1508. I had a small play today and removed the extra spring and set the original spring to where the marking showed it had previously been, instantly gained an extra 4mm(ish) of knee lift height though when sewing fast or throughthin material the knee lift linkage on the top was moving up and down. As a temporary fix I added the spring to do the same thing as the spring mentioined in the topic recommended.Problem seems to be solve, now to find the correct spring or make a better temporary fix.The additional lever has been fitted in the past for a foot pedal operated foot lift which I've removed.Its possible the extra weight of the lever is contributing to the movement of the arm.

Thank you. You both must have good memories.I've had problems before with the reverse lever moving which I think I have solved but would like to sort this.Machine sews fine.........not excellent but fine and I don't want to put any money into it as its not mine but belongs to my employer who is reluctant to get all our machines serviced.I would prefer to put my money into buying my own machine and am considering my option at the moment.

Someone at sometime has altered the knee lift mechanism of my juki 563.It looks like they've added a spring to lift the original spring which I'm guessing stops the original one from working.I haven't changed it back to how it should be but if I push the lever in the direction the spring would push it then the arm along the back rises and drops as I sew.This arm will move if I sew fast(which I don't normaly do) as it is now. Has anyone any idea why this may have been done or how to stop the arm moving if I change it back to standard?

This is how I'd love to get mine working like

Looks the same as mine.Metal scraper on the right against the knife, leather scraper spring loaded against the feed wheel. I don't suppose you can get a pic up on how the spring for the feed wheel scraper is fixed as mine has come off and the scraper is dangling loose in the air doing nothing. Many thanks if you could.

I've found that with long skiving runs the waste drops out on its own, if doing short runs it stays in grips the wheel and comes back up to the top again.

I've found this website that in the last few days released a training video for skiving machines.I haven't watched it myself but probably will when I have time to watch it.Having not seen yet it I don't know if it will be useful or not. https://www.leathercraftmasterclass.com/