keithski122

Out of interest what is the maximum distance you can set the guide away from the needle? I have a drop down guide with a straight edge it adjusts in 5mm increments up to about 35mm (1 1/4 inch) from the needle.

Mine is a juki 563 with a jack servo motor and needle positioner.I have extended the arm on the pedal by about 2 or 3 inches and the same on the motor controller.I found that without the extensions I had too little ankle movement before stitching would occur and I would accidently stitch

When I was using my machine today I took notice of how it was working.I think the servo motor adds controllability.With the clutch motor it previously had I would press the pedal and not know if I would do one stitch or 15, with the servo I can tap the pedal and do one stitch, keep tapping and I can do lots of one stitches.Generally I guess I sew about two or three inches at a time on a straight line or I can tap it one stitch at a time around sharp curves or up to a corner.With the clutch motor I would have to do stuff like this very carefully or by handwheeling the machine.With the control I now have with just the servo and needle positioner I have no need to go any slower.

I love having a needle positioner.I don't sew fast but its great knowing the needle will stop in the down position (slightly raising), great for 90 degree turns knowing it won't skip the stitch on the corner.Used with the knee lift I can make curves or sharp turns without material slipping or stitches skipping.My machine is a 563 used for car upholstery so used on material from vinyl to leather to carpet.I don't have a need for a speed reducer, jack motor with speed limited to 1000.

When I fitted a needle positioner to my machine I removed the bolt in the center of the pully and used it to secure a nylon spacer that was supplied with the positoner, the alloy ring of the positioner then grips the spacer.To fit the L shaped bracket I had to drill and tap the machine casing in a suitable place, it wasn't a difficult thing to do, just a bit worrying at first.

Thanks for the advice. I've decided to get an engineer in to set it up and show me how to work it.Only so much time I can spend fiddling with it and getting nowhere, otherwise its just an expensive space filler.

Thanks for the reply.I don't have much chance to play with it as its at work and we're so stacked with work I don't have much spare time, shame as it will be a great asset when i have got it dialed in. I have had it with the belt both to the far right pulleys and to the far left (I think its at the left at the moment which I think is slow blade fast feed), I don't suppose you could have a look and tell me which yours is on. I have thought of buying an extra motor and driving feed and blade off separate motors. I have followed a few videos in setting up but not to any success, probably down to me not the videos.At the moment I have the blade about 0.5mm away from the foot. Do you know what controls the finished thickness ? Is it foot to feed distance, foot to blade distance(left to right), foot to blade distance (up/down), blade to feed distance or just a mix of all?

Heres a couple of pics I took a few months ago of the results I'm getting.

Hi. My name is Keith and I need your help please. I've recently bought a preowned global skiver(fortuna copy) as where I work we had a very old fortuna that I did not own and could never get to work correctly.As I didn't want to pay for parts on something that wasn't mine I bout the global machine.It works better than the fortuna but I cannot get it to give a consistant cut.Leather used is upholstery type(1.1mm), stone type wheel, 50mm foot and servo motor.I'm trying to get the edge skived for about 10mm. I think I've read every internet post and seen every video posted but cannot work it right.The wheel grabs the leather and doesn't feed smoothly, would a different material feed wheel help? Is it easier to set for a wedged skive or a flat skive? Some videos I've seen they skive it, its not thin enough so turn the knob, reskive until thin enough.I do this and it takes nothing off, turn knob, nothing off, turn knob .......cut through leather.How much should I need to turn knob each time, 1/8 turn , 1/4, 1/2 ? Would a smaller foot help? I've sharpened blade by holding a sharpie on the blade to colour edge, then ground until edge nice and shiney, then used the hand stone to deburr. Which postition is it best to have the drive belts on? Which position for the feed tension spring Pics show the machine I bought and what I would like to achieve. Many thanks for any help.

Many thanks to you both. Today I firstly adjusted the bottom stop bracket which brought the thread further to the right so reset back to where it began.Then adjusted the check discs from fully anti clockwise to fully clockwise which brought the thread to the left.It seems to work a lot better now.

Thank you, will try this tomorrow.Should there be tension on the thread at all times or is there slack at any point? I checked against another of our machines and that also seemed to have slack on it.

Hi. I'm hoping someone can help me with this problem.The machine is a juki 563 with a servo needle postion motor, the postion is set so that the needle stops just after it has gone past the bottom postion and is rising, heel/tap pedal(I forget which) and the needle rises to the top.Its used daily for auto upholstery and stitches ok.Recently I've noticed that when I stop sewing the thread is loose and twists towards the right hand side of the machine occasionally the thread with catch around the knurled knob, when sewing its fine.I've adjusted the take up spring but should I adjust some more? Thread is ipcabond 20 (138 american?).

I had a look at my skiving machine today and its not a steel plate that rubs on the roller but a thick piece of leather. Would a rubber or plastic roller help to stop the waste pulling through to the top?

When I install the bobbin I put the thread through the slit in the bobbin case, wind the machine over by hand to get the thread to the top, then hold the bobbin still and pull the thread.It will snick into the tension spring.Machine is a juki 563 but may well work on your machine.

Nice work.Does it help with the skiving process? Was it worth modifying as I have one similar?

I've seen one marketed in the uk as a tysew, available with foot height adjustment knob.I'm tempted but not sure on the bottom loading bobbin as I'm used to a top loading juki 563.

I 'd be interested in hearing about this as I use the same machine and when sewing thicker or harder materials it will also break the needle occasionally when in reverse.I tend to turn the material to lock off or lift the foot move the material back and resew.

The fortuna machine we have at work has a clutch motor and is horrible to use although possibly due to not being set up correctly.The leather seems to zoom through with no control.Recently I boiught a newer machine fitted with a servo motor and the difference is like light and day, I can feed the leather through as slow as I like.

Its pretty much in the holes, not sure how I adjusted it though.Probably would have been using Uwe's video, I have played about with settings a lot and never seem to get it fully right.At the moment if I reverse when sewing thick tough materials its quite likely I'll snap a needle, if I'm sewing something like this I'll just spin the material sew a few stitches then spin and sew rather than use reverse.My machines in daily use so I can't afford to mess up the settings.

I use a juki 563 and also don't seem to get the 1/4 inch stitch length possibly due to thicker materials (upholstery work), its probably closer to 5mm.

No I never did, the general consensus seems to sugest using a split belt with a joining staple. A pdf of the manual would be fantastic as I'm still having huge problems getting it to work sucessfully.I don't often get the time to work on it though.

Machine will act the same as before.All I did was use short lengths of angle to lengthen the arms.It all leverage and arcs.......the pedal has to move further between min and max making control beween the two less sensitive.

You may be able to lengthen the arm that controls the motor and/or the pedal (not the joining rod), this should make the machine more controlable.I added an extra 3 inchs to both on my machine.

Wow, really helpful answer Gregg.You've actually posted on my other thread about the machine (juki 1510 with efka control box). Never even thought about moving the button or having it operated by the kneelift pad.

I'm used to the knee lift on the machine I'm using at the moment and thought it might be handy to have on the new one.Quite often I'll positon the material at the start of a seam and hold with both hands and drop the foot with the knee lift or when needing to change direction while sewing give a quick nudge with the knee and carry on sewing.I guess I could get used to not using one as when I first started I could only use the handlift.