HellfireJack
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Everything posted by HellfireJack
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No Problem Suicide, glad to help! You don't have to exchange them. You should get your money back and I would post pictures of those items here and I would make sure Tandy knew I was doing it in hopes that they change their cheap leather selling ways. For all the people who complain about Tandy you never see the actual complaints except for the occasional newbie now and then who bends a kit Crafttool. I would hope that if Tandy did ever see actual complaints here and on other websites they'd respond in some way. The only real issues I've ever seen posted are about bent Crafttools and we all know that Tandy will replace those without question. Of course there are those people who purchase an extremely low priced piece of leather and expect it to be the same quality as the high end products like W&C or Herman Oak. That's about as silly as someone buying a Honda Civic and expecting it to perform like a Ferrari.
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Not a problem Suicide, OP is original poster or original post. There you told us: If you properly cased the leather there is no chance it would have been "a bit damp". You check for coolness (evaporation still occurring) against your skin because you can no longer see visible moisture. That means it wouldn't appear damp. It returns to it's original color and all visible moisture is gone. It should appear dry. When you look at the leather it should not appear any different than it was before you wet it. What you describe in your post is exactly what happens when you tool leather that has too much moisture still. You get an OK impression when you stamp it but when you let it sit the moisture relaxes the fibers and your stamping loses it's clarity and definition and the burnish fades.
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Sorry Terrymac, Tandy may have sell some cheap leather but this doesn't sound like it's the problem in this situation. The OP even states the leather looked damp when he stamped it. That's a casing issue. You say you know how to case leather so you should know that leather should not look damp at all when you start stamping and leather will not stay burnished if it is damp when stamped because the moisture will force the fibers of leather to relax. End of story. That would make it a casing issue. I have never ever had an issue with Tandy leather being chalky. In all the leather I've bought from Tandy I've had one issue where the fiber on a portion of a shoulder was too loose and wouldn't take a good impression. That's the only problem I've ever had with Tandy leather and that was my own fault for not checking closely enough when I purchased it. By the way, why would you not return the bad merchandise and just toss it into the trash? Are you seriously in the habit of throwing away your money like that?
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If you could tell the leather was too damp then the odds are that the leather was just too damp. Some leathers can take hours to reach the "quick case" stage.
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My First Wallet
HellfireJack replied to Hibbert's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
I like the wallet. I've been playing Skyrim for a week now myself. I think the Celtic works but it's actually more of a Norse theme in the game. Luckily most of what people call "Celtic" artwork, especially the zoomorphic images, were actually inspired by Germanic animal styles anyways. A win all round. I'm sure your friend will like it. -
Do you have a no script add on or possibly could have disabled Java?
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Click multipost on each post in the thread you wish to quote then click add reply. The items flagged as multipost will be quoted in the editor. They show up like this and... Like this.
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Oh I know what you're talking about Hosscomp. On some of the ecoflow bottles sometimes I can't tell which side is French and which is English. I just blame that on my bad vision though usually and not their packaging. It also doesn't help that one side is in French either though. I can't tell you how many times I've struggled to read the French side thinking it was English. You might suggest they print the color on the white cap as well as on the label.
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It's standard practice to put a contact link at the bottom of the page if it's not in the site's normal navigation. I just checked and it's there as it should be. The link leads here. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/contactus/contactus.aspx
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I saw this a few months back. Stunning work. It made me wonder if this could be a way to stylize rawhide.
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Here are some patterns for cowboy cuffs from a user named Jim here. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=35455
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You could also use Pixlr. It's a free online web app that allows photo editing. Here is an Instructables on how use Pixlr to turn an image into a line drawing for transferring to your leather as well. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Coloring-Book/
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16" Briefcase
HellfireJack replied to Scary Leatherworks's topic in Satchels, Luggage and Briefcases
Awesome case. I'd like to make similar once I get better at hand stitching.. -
I've heard of this happening but have never seen it happen personally. The heads are brazed on to the handle and the whole thing is plated. You can try Barry King or Hackbarth tools.
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The term is surfactant. Of which, glycerin (Found in soaps and detergents), is one. It reduces the surface tension of water to allow it to slip into smaller microscopic crevices. You can also just go to your local drug store and ask for liquid glycerin. There's a plant I recently read about that produces drupes that they call soapnuts used for "green" laundry. It's supposed to be a very strong surfactant as well. You can buy them from a site called http://laundrytree.com/ (No affiliation) Worth a shot. If it doesn't make your leather more pliable you can always just use it to do your laundry.
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How Are Attache Cases (Hard Cased Briefcases) Created
HellfireJack replied to Xantaus's topic in How Do I Do That?
The one pictured in your link most likely use a foundation board of some kind, either graphics cardboard or similar type of fiberboard/cardboard. I'm sure thicker plastic sheet is used as well for a foundation board. As for what the best way is I'd say that would be personal preference though, by material, heavy cardboard would be easier to deal with. -
GIMP can be finicky when it comes to printing. What OS are you using? The quick work around is to save your working file as an actual image, open with a different program, and print from there.
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haha not sure about spitting on them. I believe I read that trick in one of Stohlman's coloring books. It was just a little blurb on maintaining the shape of a brush after cleaning. I believe the lips are used to minimize the pressure on the fibers so they don't dry all clumped together as they would if you used your fingers. I'll try to find which book it is in for you.
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Was it this? http://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1174-king-size-cigarette-case-pattern.aspx
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Thanks! I have a ceramic that doesn't work well. Now I know why. I don't even need a magnifying glass to see the serration. A couple hours of wet sanding should fix the problem.
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Stains and paints are the same thing. They're both a carrier loaded with pigment with an added binder. Paint merely dries opaque where stain allows the grain and other coloring to show through. There shouldn't be any real penetration with a stain. It should simply bind with the surface fibers. The only way to get penetration with a stain is to add dye to the stain. Then you'll see penetration wherever the leather is able to leech the dye out of the stain. The Tandy Ecoflow Pro Waterstain says it has a dye added so you'll probably get a small amount of penetration at best.
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Any advice on how to sharpen/polish the ceramic blades?