beltbuckles

so i was wondering about dip dying leather instead of using a sponge... i heard that is it recommended to dilute the alcohol instead of using pure dye (pro dye from tandy)... what ration should i start with? also.. i have isopropyl 91% (i think) already at home... can i dilute with that instead of denatured ??

are you refering to cutting a v in the round part of the side of the purse? or just when to glue and when to wetmold i was thinking about cutting a v... i did it without a "V" but i want to be able to do it consistantly... there are some other designs that i was thinking about doing as well.. i may try one like the 3 parts of the gusset like you showed in the beginning parts... also that motorcycle bag is georgeous!!!

that bottom bag is very similar to what im making... does the v trim really help?? i have made some in the past without the v trim. i was thinking about making a "V" trim for like laptop bags that have a sharp "U" shaped gusset at the bottom compared to a larger wider ones with the purses that i've made

do some people glue the leather the other way?? having the grain side up and the flesh glued to the wood?

so i have part side parts and a big rectangle part that gets sown on the bottom and sides of the gusset (then i have a cover on top but that is not in the picture) i would like to be able to glue it in place, but sometimes it is hard to stretch the leather enough when it is dry so i wet it a bit to help. both edges will be facing out to burnish later i could get it wet, and clip it in place, then glue later on when it dries... is that the best option? i would be using a cylinder arm walking foot singer 153 (B?) clone consew 227b i think i used similar ounce (mm) leather last time and it came out bad... so i went and got some thinker leather for the main, and thinner for the sides since i have had better luck with that in the past

thank you! i feel like its a tough situation because if the leather is wet, i can stretch it better, but then i shouldn't glue it (until it dries)

thankyou for your answer! and the pictures when you apply contact cement to a gusset, is the gusset completely dry? or is it a bit wet to be able to stretch it better? ( i know you have to let the glue dry before pressing the leather items together)

as a side note,, this is after i dye the piece so i don't want to get the leather too wet to discolor the leather

so which order do you guys do the gusset for a bag or briefcase as far as gluing and stretching the leather... if i was to make a briefcase or bag that has a "U" shape gusset on both sides... do you guys just keep the leather dry and try to stretch it, and glue it? do you case the leather and then glue it? do you put the contact cement on first and then get the leather wet? if there is a link or people have experience doing it well and consistantly, please help. Thanks

nice job man!

thanks for the reply your bike looks great.. i think my friend is going to take a heat gun and try to fix a few rough spots.... hope it comes out okay

-thanks for reply i tried to use chrome tanned leather maybe 2-3oz... i didn't skive it, did you have to skive it at all?>

the leather is pretty thin. not sure if it is sheep skin or not. im doing this as a favor for someone, so i volunteered to help.. which kind of puts me in a special situation but i would like to try to fix it. is there anyway to prevent the rip? maybe glue a piece under it really well as a support thing? i think his main goal is to use it more than how it looks he did say that i could put a patch on it or something, i may try to patch underneath it first

how did you do the seat? what type of leather?

so someone asked me to fix a leather coat for them. it has a few tears but the main on is on the sleave. i think i should do the following: -take cuff off -glue a piece of leather under it -handstitch new piece of leather to jacket -put cuff back one should i do something different? i don't want to go too nuts on this, let me know what you think i guess i could just stitch the rip together but..

could you just put it on a side pocket within one of the gussets?

i have (2) adler cylinder arms. they are just the head and may need some parts... i bought them and never ended up getting a table for them.. i think it is a adler 69 are you interested? i live about 20 miles from nyc

1-so i got contact cement (i think) the weldwood red container. the smell is very strong. anyway, when i tried it, it didn't hold as well as i hoped. -possible problems: didn't wait for it to dry all the way before sticking, not enough used, maybe i didn't scratch surface. anyway i used elmers wood glue and had better results ... any other reason for what the problem could be? - it glue really didn't work well at all. (probably user error) 2-would i be better off using a different type of glue... (for leather to leather gluing) also will it mess up a machine if i stitch something glued? 3-also i know there is a big warning about the smell being bad for you... is it bad to touch the glue (contact with skin)? do you guys / girls wear gloves when using the glue? or a repirator mask? -thanks in advance for replies

for the bottom part, you can use like a rubber mat carpet... it is heavy and it flexes pretty well.

hmmm intersesting.. simuliar build it looks like

REALLY REALLY NICE

hmmm odd, i saw videos on it as well and it looked really easy.... but i never used it so i was wondering if others have tested it. i would hate to buy it and not be able to.... what was the problem with yours do you think??

anyone use this machine? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Paring-Machine-Edge-Skiving-Peeler-Manual-Leather-Splitter-Skiver-Blade-/263322017371