Hennessy

i have 100 buckle blanks like to sell 50 cents each plus us pstg.in mint condition n good to go fits up to 13/4 belt

g'day rock i see yer plight with th belt.rubber cement barge or masters is used overere a lot . i'm 70 n arthritic n crippled, after 45 years of breathing th s ---t.that said if used correctly it'll keep soles stuck on boots , long after th stitching is gone.peeling th pieces apart n regluing shouldnt be hard , but a good fit edge to edge maybe difficult.also sweat tends to weaken n rot. maybe better to offer a new one. mebe in oz they wont let those glues i spoke of in . they have been used in th boot n shoe makin n repair for donkeys years . good lookin belt tho gotta b a salty hide eh ?

a collectors book , a must in a saddle makers library. book is close to mint a few slight water stains on a few late pages slightly on top edge. dust jacket is whole but worn as expected in a working enviroment. Saddles is the first complete subject to appear in print.An exhaustive study of saddles in words ,more than 800 illustrations from time beginning to now.many insightful words also fitting horse and rider is discussed. I 'M ASKING 60$ plus 10$ usps

back in Australia when I was a bit of a lad , in th saddle shops I worked in n also in English saddlery, thar is an edge iron a curled concave lip. various sizes for various thickness. we usually had a [tea] coffee can in which we stuck a candle. th tool has a long shaft with a wooden handle.we'd set th tool over th flame,usually resting on a base of some make up. th flame would heat up th tip, then we'd dip it into a block of beeswax n rub it down th edged piece,when u get th hang of it it goes along good, seems like th edge would be died first, th wax really makes a smooth edge , remember slippin a time or three n burnin my holdin hand too. .

i have used rosin, bar saddle soap even bees wax to get a grip it wont last but holds fairly long

gloves are hard to make,if your patterns are xact i'd find a friendly leather shop with a sewing machine n have them run th edges to be sew'd 6 to th inch no fun there i'd give th hide back. i've made rodeo gloves 1 at a time,sell rh or lh for 3o years n still not me fav task..

after years of layin tools down in a heap whilst toolin n then havin to seek one in th heap,i color coded them also my tool board .this has help'd me quite a bit n i thought it worth sharin .

i had a leather leather man around dallas tx show me how he dealt with oil dye n by golly i do it every time i can !when your ready to dye [esp black] first put a coat of lacquer down i wait a suitable time for dryin then apply dye ,dry .buff off virtually nothing then relaq. where possible n if in best interest i still can oil or dress from backside.i encourage people on here over n over n still haven't seen any other person talk about its success or negative i do it all th time .

randy i'd oil m cause they'll not see open air rfer a long time eh;th stohlman books on saddl makin are great for any level if you dont have m try to locate th 3 books n get educated all th steps are there with explanations

several aust dealers in lw do a search or go back several pages lookin for oz address's been buyin over here good selection i see /

take a sharpn'd scratch awl ]kinda like a sharp pointed phillips screwdriver] on th conch edge in th rope edge or into some engraving along th edge get th point in there good, n tap th awl backin th conch out until you can remove it by hand.i do this often,usually no usually no damage to concho/

there was a time when a lot of mex leather was tanned in urine .hence th bad smell.i'm sure that this tanning goes back to spain.morocco was a portugeese creation and i bet they used urine too going by th smell associated with ''moroccan'' stuff i've observed .

leather lac is for veg leather only by that i mean tooling, saddle leather.it wont work on other leas latigo holds it but eventually flakes off.could be your dye isnt holding it ?on bends best wet n lock in yer bend b4 you lac as th bending will stretch n crack lea and or lac shouldn't but can.thinning has its place but full coat is better ,try makin lace holes b4 lac or vice versa .

an older than me leather bloke in dallas tx showed me a neat way to dye black. try on scrap,lacquer first th area to be blcknd.then paint black dye on [apply lol] let dry ov nite lightly buff gives a patent look with no residue eh !

try wipeing th antq off with a damp finger rag,if not clean enuff try a damp alcohol finger rag then dry and re cover letters with your seal. a finger rag is one finger on a rag lol

ehsi should one do fer nose rings ?

did u ever locate a sdl maker ?

well said yer ol toot

at your local boat anchor supply

i have seen a bunch of mex saddl mkrs make awls out of phillips screw drivers [i'm sure they heat treated them] even had one given me long blade n was good on binders but was'nt able to stay straight .

been scratching leather for 42 yrs or so..belly has its place in leather work you just have to understand the grain n where its weakest trashy spots are and what you can use it on .for starters it can be a filler,on work that will bear no strain etc etc you can tool it minimiseing stretch thru a backing ,good for practiseingdont use it on good payin custom work but use good judgement ,especially helpful for beginners !

just lookin aboot n thought i'd add me 2 cents worth. i've been around a lot of factory saddle shops and some xtra good saddlemakers and all i've seen was a soaking of neatsfoot [pure] to darken th saddle also full days in th sun to accelerate darkening !t've used montana pitch n liked it skidmores too i still use oil; neatsfoot n veg oil.also i heard that mink oil is nothing more linseed oil fancied up

as an addenendum havin trouble hand stitching thick or hard lea push stitchin awl down into a block of beeswax watch out it'll glide thru quick,i learned this in an old saddle shop in australia many moons ago .